AndyP

Actually, the entrance fee is surprisingly expensive - but that is only relevant if you would have gone anyway, plus you will have spent two days there already and will have seen most of it anyway.

We don't have arachnophobia !

I'm guessing that you may be down more than one cylinder. First stop would be the injector and coil pack connectors I reckon.

I'm guessing that you may be down more than one cylinder. First stop would be the injector and coil pack connectors I reckon.

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You got something with a better focus on the bits that need soldering, or is there a pic of the parts online somewhere ? From what I see that looks like a lot of very small connections to re-do !

Looks to me like the tyre size is ok, you just have a damaged/faulty tyre.

I've not played with the FAST for a while, but I thought that the full details of the car gave the engine number, in which case you can probably work backwards and find out which year/car it's from.

It's the sort of thing I might do, can you post up a photo of some of the bits first so I can get an idea of what is involved ?

You can probably work it out from the Nissan FAST cd.

Make sure it's running right, with no ECU errors. I'd also get it mapped on ordinary fuel on a hot day, that way you can be more confident that it will be ok on hot days, especially if high octane fuel is not available. (or have two maps that are switchable of course!)

Jimmy Barnes - Driving Wheels

Yep, about '95 onwards are 16bit, pre that are 8bit. However, the ECU is a self contained device with the same inputs no matter which model, so I reckon either will work. You can't (easily) remap the 16bit ones though, so we have replaced two or three of the 16bit ECUs with remapped 8bit ones. Incidentally, people have said that even a base model 8bit is better performance than the 16bit one.

That's an interesting question. The other way around certainly works but I'm not aware of anyone putting a more recent ECU in an older car. My instinct tells me that it will probably work. Of course most people do it the other way around because the old ECUs have fewer restrictions (emissions etc) and are far more easily remapped.

There was an interloper from another forum who used to come on here all the time quite a few years ago and maintain his Soarer was the best thing since sliced bread, what was his name ? Was it Mycroft ?

I've already done £9000 and I've not driven it since 2009 ! So that was when fuel was significantly cheaper. In fact when I first had the Z it was about 58p per litre ...

I reckon a BMW 335D conversion would be nice and torquey, not the same top end rush of course, but whether it would fit and whether it would be worth it are much harder questions.

What channel is it on ? Sky I presume, which I don't have !

It's not just that there is less money around, but the cars have become VERY expensive to run in comparison to the actual value. So, not only are there fewer cars around (accidents, breakers, rust etc), but also more of the cars have now become weekend/Summer toys rather than everyday drives. This also means that now there is a significant commitment to say change a set of wheels, compared with maybe ten years ago when that was perhaps only 5% of the value of the now - now it could be 50% !

I'm not a fan of BMW's as such (although I have one of the damn things!), but I really like the concept and how this has turned out. Personally, I wouldn't have gone for the black & white paint job, but I think it looks great and think you've done a great job here.

http://300zx.org.uk/mod_comp_1.htm

Happy Birthday Mike.

Anyone with the Nissan FAST cd can do that too.

The Z Club also meet there one Sunday a month, not sure which now ... 2nd Sunday perhaps ?