AndyP

This was my list (from the FAQ section) Gearbox Gear lever New leather gear lever boot + 2 rubber boots underneath Master cylinder Slave cylinder All hydraulic pipework Pedal box Flywheel Pressure plate Clutch disc Throw out bearing Front half of the propshaft The plate that sits between engine & gearbox Wiring loom for the reverse & neutral gearbox switches Wiring loom for the alternator Both clutch servo vacumn tanks + pipework I would also recommend replacing all the cheap rubber bits like dust seals and so on, plus the gear shift bush and the gearbox rear mount & prop centre bearing.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/PDFs/Autoto5spconversion.pdf

It's only Northerners who say that though. Southerners probably just steal it out your wallett ! ;)

And another one that really bugs me .... Never use a preposition to end a sentence with.

I wouldn't say that 276bhp without a turbo is woefully underpowered, it certainly lacks the real midrange ooomph that you get from the twin turbo though.

Well when your location says Perth, how the hell are we supposed to know that the nearest Halfords is 3000 miles away ?! LOL :D

The electrode colour doesn't look too bad. It may benefit from a better plug but to be honest most of those engines are pretty basic so it may not. I would probably have kept the mixture a hint richer and tried a hotter plug.

Maybe but it is nice to drive a new car. Anyway, I suspect Mike Feeney's 350 already exceeds a paultry 309bhp by some margin !

That fact she hasn't signed the contract doesn't matter, turning up for work is "accepting the terms of the contract". Also, during the probationary period, which is typically 2 years, you can be got rid of for pretty much any reason. And "face don't fit" is pretty much a valid reason at that point. Entitlement will probably only be statutory minimum.

Ger-ger-ger-g-granville !

Since when did Nissan have three "S"'s ? :D

Soak the sheared off nipple with Plus Gas overnight and then try heating up the area around it with a blow lamp before you attempt to remove it with the stud extractor. Get it properly hot without setting fire to anything (like piston dust seals etc). Good luck - you WILL need it !

That's just wierd - it looks wrong from every angle. It's like if you look a bit harder then you'll see what you expect - but you don't ...

OK, well the review I read contradicts that - maybe it's not full 6 digit postcode coverage. I know a number of people with SatNavs have tried to find my house and it's not there with the full postcode - you have to know the name of the road and then it gets complicated, especially if you have a house name and not number ... It also wants to know which junction you need to find on that road, if there are no junctions nearby ...

Says out of stock now anyway. Also, this doesn't have the full postcode info, which makes it a real pain to use properly.

And only 45 mins if you have a ramp !

There is a speed limiter coded in the ECU, 180kph (112mph)

Are you actually loosing fluid or is it just the effect of the brake pads wearing ?

The standard brakes are 'ok' when in tip top condition. Suggest you remove the front calipers and check for sticky pistons, resolve if ness. and then install the new braided pipes and flush through with clean fluid.

You seldom hear anything bad said about Michelins, although they do seem to suit some cars better than others. As far as the Z goes I'm a Bridgestone fan, but different people will have different preferences.

Do a wet test as well, that'll give you a better idea as to whether it's rings or headgasket (or even valves).

4 and 6 look a little low. Suspicious that they are next to each other too. Was that test wet or dry ?

Done !

Gold digger, closely related to Red Rum as far as I can tell. Bound to be an overdose of something.

There should be rubber O rings, as long as they're in good condition you should be OK. If they're a bit flat then a smear of gasket goo should do you. Obviously, leaks on the plenum are to be avoided ...