AndyP

Nope, you would have seen the number of revs the engine slows down by as each cylinder is dropped. Nowt to do with compression - well not much anyway ...

Try swapping the coil, then the spark plug.

Don't follow what the ConZult has to do with this - it doesn't indicate compression. Anyway, assuming your compression tester is calibrated in psi, then yes, the last figure is the one you're looking for. ie between 186 - 142 psi with no more than a difference of 14 psi between any two cylinders.

It's specified here :- http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=em&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=9&design=default&total=70 http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=em&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=62&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=70

I'm always a bit nervous of trying anything new like that. Also, whilst I broadly support Google in that they are a tiny bit of competition for Micro$haft, they are FAR too busy trying to collect information about you and add it to their profile of you. Remember their mission statement is something like "To index the world" - that includes you and everything they can find out about, or associate with you. Just look at the targeted advertising in the free Gmail accounts.

Just get those contacts properly clean, that could make a big difference. I've seen two cars recently that permanently read about 71 deg c. This means that the ECU doesn't detect it as a fault, but it does confuse stuff. So your temp sensor could still be partly faulty. Change it if you're in doubt as they're cheap, plus make sure you have a good electrical connection.

Doesn't sound like an injector problem to me. Aside from that all the screwdriver test tells you is that the electrical part is working. You really need to have them removed, flow tested, cleaned etc etc if you think they are faulty.

No, similar but the SE ones were cylindrical, those are conical. I replaced mine with K&N's.

Well it's certainly gonna be white !

Only if it's disconnected. If one or both has failed then the car will run rich (or lean) depending on whether they fail low or high.

There's probably a pic in the online manual. Yours looks like it does the trick though.

Email me nearer the time. There must be someone nearer you with a ConZult.

But if you brake hard enough then the rears will be in the air ! LOL :D

Well I see you're thinking but I don't think it will make that much difference. Rears only provide about 25% of the braking effort anyway.

Near Great Dunmow in Essex. No charge.

ConZult is deffo a good idea, I'll do it for you if you're around my way and the chip will run fine on std boost.

Not quite sure what you mean but some time back Pete @ SE-Nissan was working on two mini plenums with six individual throttle bodies for Russ. Don't know how far it got though.

Details are here :- http://300zx.org.uk/ecu_maps.htm

and so is every dyno !

Certainly in the right ballpark there, but every car is different.

I hope not ! I like easy fixes ....

Does it run properly on 6 cylinders ? Can you get a ConZult test run on it ?

I fixed this the other day, dunno why it's happened again ....

Raising boost will always make detonation worse ! The timing on mine is always set at 15 BTDC. Over a standard chip you will see a big gain once boost is raised, even significant gains over a JWT chip. And I'm certain it is mine, it's my filename and my label. I don't really understand how you would come to run that map on std boost, has someone removed the boost controller before you got the car ?

Sounds like one of my chips to me ! Dunno where the Bmark bit comes from though. It's certainly not standard. What changed before the det started ?