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billynomates

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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by billynomates

  1. at the bottom it states Note: The condition of the spare tyre is not part of the MOT.
  2. it never has been part of an mot, http://www.motuk.com/mottest.htm
  3. spare wheel WHATEVER the condition is NOT part of the m.o.t. m8
  4. i cant blame any fitter for not touching an alarm someone else has installed, and whoever fitted it and said it would be a couple of months to sort wants their arses kicking, :mad: my last 3 alarms have been fitted by a guy from down south, even though i'm in the north, ABSOLUTE TOP SERVICE, so if anyone is in the south wants to get in touch with them, i'd recommend them to anyone
  5. you ask could it be a problem with the gears, it could be the first sign of a slipping clutch (if manual) or autobox slipping
  6. lol Barryd beat me to it
  7. as Richardsmith says, a true autobox doesn't come into its own unless its in a performance car, and a 130hp focus deffo aint that the box in a focus is to grabby when looking for power, and can't see how you can compare any part of a focus to a zx?
  8. a certain amount of white smoke is ok usually condensation, as long as it clears shouldn't be a problem
  9. as above m8 to far away to recommend garages/mechanics in that area, as for the distributor, again it wouldnt stop the engine turning over, if the pick up in the dizzie was knackered it would just stop it firing, same as any problems with the plugs only thing that would stop it turning is the prevoius things mentioned
  10. ok thanks, will pop a cheque in the post monday :)
  11. as MARKSTEVENS says m8 the fuel pump will not stop the car turning over you need to speak to someone who aint gonna shaft you
  12. left out it could also be the starter solenoid/relay but your gonna need an auto/spark to check these if you don't know what to look for
  13. sorry m8 not sure what you mean by "clicking normally" as clicking isn't normal another thing mentioned you need to try, but needs two people one turning the key, and someone looking down by the starter motor to see if your getting any shorting/arcing so best to try this in the evening have you tried moving the gear stick to neutral N ? while its been parked up has the alarm gone off at all do you know?? have you got the code for resetting the alarm, a flat battery could also cause an alarm to do wierd things, ie if the battery is flat AND the back up battery is knackered have you got access to a charged battery that will fit, or disconnect your battery and use a good set of leads to connect straight to your two terminals from good battery while you were messing with the jump leads you didn't connect wrong way round did you? again as mentioned before check the earths, especially the one from the - side of the battery try and let us know EXACTLY where the clicking is coming from you could short the starter, but if your knowledge aint that great i wouldnt advise that, unless your looking for a viking funeral lol also mentioned before i think, while turning the key move the gear lever through every gear a few times so leave the key turned hard right and as you move the lever the clicking should come and go, it MAY shock it into starting, again making sure its with a full battery and last thing i can think of, shut all doors/bonnet/tail and reset alarm and when you disable make sure your getting normal beeps/light flashes
  14. was this the garage that told you the distributor has failed?? as it wouldnt stop the engine turning over as a few have said it sounds like dead battery inhibitor switch not engaged in drive properly have you got a toad alarm (similar) where you need to press the small button to disengage the imobiliser?? is it actually clicking or is it locking on the starting ring you need to eliminate all the things people have advised you in the other posts, or risk getting ripped by someone who knows you know nothing :mad:
  15. dont really want to get involved in the auto vs manual debate but have been a driver of auto's for 20 years+ and the improvement in them is superb, i had a little "twinge" with my zx box only last week, but finally got a chance to test it out properly today, since fluid change, and left a newly bought skyline from liverpool port auction got the zx up to 150+ on the m58 before i pulled off, the kickdown and changes in gear were as good as any auto ive driven, if i have any faults in this box i think they will show up in the next few weeks lol one of THE best auto boxes was the one in the rover 827i (the honda one lol) and up to NOW the zx compares very well, i'm not as well clued up on zx boxes as some on this site, but like anything looked after with the right cooling and regular servicing and DRIVEN properly, it should hold up well in the last 5 years i have had numerous cars ALL auto, and only had problems with 1, and as most of you know, cars today the days of an hour for a clutch change are gone, anyway each to his own, and my left leg is only for standing on when pulling me pants on in the morning :nono:
  16. does this link still apply?? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=23419 i reckon even if i ask advice only a couple of times, then its money well spent :)
  17. re-reading the relevant section, it doesn't seem to help with the number plate problem, as the ECWVTA is "From 17th June 2003 motorcycles, three-wheeled and light four-wheel vehicles must comply with European Community Whole Vehicle Type Approval (ECWVTA). Without such approval, vehicles cannot be registered for use in Great Britain. If a certificate of conformity to ECWVTA cannot be produced then the vehicle will be subject to a MSVA examination before first licence can be issued. If MSVA were not available the only route to registration in Britain would be full Type Approval which is an expensive and time consuming process and would effectively bring a halt to the registration of non-ECWVTA vehicles (e.g. custom / bespoke vehicles, amateur builds, non-EEA imports)." so as i read it OUR cars or cars WE import must comply with the above, so to that i would say the number plate must comply with uk laws
  18. as Sgt C says, id be more worried about the effect summat like this can have on your insurance, than the police at the end of the day a pull is a warning to get it sorted, or possibly a fine, IF the insurance is involved, it could mean you lose any payout on your dream car, or a "get out" FOR them, and they don't need a lot of excuses to wriggle out of paying you :mad:
  19. there is a "get out" on number plates if it comes under import ;) not sure if it will suit what you want?? http://www.dvla.gov.uk/vehicles/regmarks/reg_marks_current_requirements.htm#import
  20. are you confident in your own judgement to buy a good 'un? as it's worth visiting the import auctions even if its to browse for a few auctions, basically your only getting whats on sale in japan anyway, we have bought numerous cars/4x4/mpvs from the auction now and touch wood not bought a "wrong 'un" yet the import auctions are nothing like the british auctions, where mainly they are in there for one reason, they can't be sold elsewhere, unlike our goverment, the japs give their people incentives to buy new cars and boost their economy, so their laws on older motors are far stricter than ours, i looked at numerous sports cars before i bought my zx, and as ive posted apart from a auto box blip, im well chuffed, as a few have said i may have to eventually sort a box, but the money saved will still make it a bargain theres an import auction in southampton isnt there? the hardest part is deciding if you want a car over 10 years old, so no sva just registration and mot, or under and sva/mot and registration or i belive there is an import auction in derby, where you can buy the car ready sva'd etc and pay the little extra
  21. yep i'll just have to hope and fingers crossed and keep me AA card with me lol maybe they dropped it in the sea on the boat over, or it was sat by the docks for 3 months (wishful thinking) had a m8 stick a new diagnostics machine on it today, and all came up clear was expecting a message "some arse has been messing with the gearbox" lol
  22. then i would say its ok so sorry that doesnt help you with your original problem as a couple have said if your reaching 120mph, its going above the limiter speed, so the cat lights could be connected, maybe the hard braking was just a blip, and hopefully next time you wont have to slow and all will be ok:)
  23. yes m8 sounds like just the clocks have been changed so to be honest im not sure if that would completly delimit it? i bought my delimiter from an import auction and it was pretty easy to fit what do your clocks go to?? if your not reaching the max then id assume you should be ok to go further
  24. if you still have the km clock?? it will top end to the 180 and then stutter (aprrox 133-115 mph) the limiter is not an actual physical part, you buy the delimiter remove your clocks and fit it between the speedo wires and earths etc your km clocks then revert to mph, ie 70 kph is 70 mph costs about £65 and 45 mins to an hour, or if your not brave enough most pleces charge about £90-95 fitted
  25. recently had a Avital 4400 (clifford) fitted comes with turbo timer combined/pager/remote start/window closure/valet mode/temp control (will start car if set when temp drops below zero or required temp but alarm still active)/panic mode/anti hihack plus loads of other toys, the total fitted was £450, but take away some of the above and the price drops, and don't forget if the insurance know you have remote start its suss on your insurance i have a toad fitted to another car and excellent alarm also, but not got turbo on that, so not sure about turbo timer

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