markzx

Only uptight people who take themselves too seriously.

:shock: :shock: :shock: I'm on my way :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

There's people being blown up and killed and people trying to kill other all because of intollerance. What ever happened to live and let live. There really is some sad people around who need to get a life and stop interfering with everyone elses. More Clarkson and Co for me please. It was light hearted banter and perhaps it's a result of their brain injuries that they cannot see it that way, but thats what it is and most of us enjoy it. If people carn't laugh at themselves the start taking their own bull sj1t seriously and the next thing you know Jokes and bonamee will be out lawed.

Blow torch generally gets enough heat into it to soften the glue and burns that nasty sticker right off.

I was told that they needed spacers + they are only 7.5 J all 4 when you need to have ofset wheels really. and it just so happens that I have these for sale now http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=87249

Then whats the ware like on your rear tyres and what does it tell you.

That is really nice. Is that Ancara or the Catskins reversed to expose swade? i'm all for the keep a clean and simple. How long did it tack you to do? Did you replace the drivers squab or use new foam? What was the hardest part etc. Never liked the black and gray Catskins that I've seen , but that does look real quality.

I posted wheels pics these went over my R33 GTR brakes http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=87510&page=2

Or your Tyres What is it with people on this board. you all do everything without first doing the fundimentals. Tyres Tyre presures Tyre quality Tyre type's (how many of you know what tyre types you actually got on) it could be bushes track rod ends steering rack or even a twisted monocock, But first thing to check are your tyres. You don't cook a dinner by serving it up first. PS. By checking your tyre first your see how they are waring and therefore know what is broken or out of line etc. Then you check to seee if its mechanical ware or damage. It's just the same are engine fault finding Check plugs first then you can see if its running properley, burning oil, sreaming off etc. Also when they set race cars up they start by putting the best rubber on and then see how it wares, not start fiddling with the geometry first because your tyres are you only proper reference point. :headvswal :headvswal :headvswal

I'd go along with this , but he describs his problems as only showing when crossing chevrons and white line markings. Which is why I said the first bit.

Just what I was thinking.

Doggy Hicas or worn rear steering arms wouldn't cause this. Worn or deffective Hicas is usually felt in highspeed corners and can be confused with poor dampers as the car can shift dirrection at the slightest of bumps. The rear wheels feel loose. More noticeable when going through succesive left right combinations/or rear stepouts favouring on side more than the other. This sounds more like Tramlining and is caused by several things. The most common is having too large a footprint on your front tyres. The ideal tyre width combinations are. 225 front and 245 rears is ideal or 255/265 rears a good compromise if you like a slight understeer feel to compensate for the twitchy rear end on the Z 235 front and 265 or 275 rears ideal 285/295 make her understeer slightly 245 front and 295 ideal larger makes it understeer slightly. The oppersit happens if you have too wide a front for the rear. The car will oversteer. It gets hold of every undulation in the road and pulls the car as though it is getting the wheels stuck into tram lines (hence its name) You also get it when tyres are baddly worn or, as in ready to be replaced or worn irregular do to incorrect alinement or damaged setup. Cheep tyres can cause it even when new. Even if they are the correct size and correct tyre combination. Most Zeds I've driven haddle like sh1te, but new bushes (this being a common problem dur to the age of the Z) and correctly set up on good rubber they are a real drivers car. What tyres ie make and sizes have you got?

Thats his shopping list :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: I hate boot installs that mean the boot is US. How's he going to pop his targas off and enjoy the Sun on that summer afternoon. when it come out for half an hour

Here you go sorry for the delay

I've seen some real scabby rust buckets both UK and Jap, Worst I've seen was Uk spec. However the cleanest Zed I've ever seen was a black 1990 UK spec too with tweed. It was mint, so if you look they are out there, but they'll cost you more than a Jspec. Mine's UK and had a very small area of rust under the battery tray, but that was sorted.

Most comon place for leaks is at th end of the fuel rail shown by arrows. You'll have to remove the throttle cable cover. Then you'll see a short rubber piece of pipe between the ends of the injector rails. Also check the connections to the regulator, flow inhibitor and around the filter etc. All ringed. If its the original pipe work I'd get shut and replace with braided fuel hose. Smithy Does kits, but i don't think it includes the piece on the end of the fuel rail. You can buy the hose and the connectors from tweaks

Porsche ownership is much cheeper than Running and Maintaining a Zed. I asume you've never owned a Zed before? One of my close friends is Dave Perry od dpmotorsport Famous for tuning and racing Porsches. For the last 7 years he's been constantly telling me to Buy a Porsche because it would be much cheaper to run. (OK he sells them but I could have one of him at tradin price) Invoices for arund £37K to date and that does not include the £16K I paid for her back in 1999.

Thats them. same guy that did yours did mine :rofl: :rofl: Only difference was yours are East yorkshire ferrets which as most people know are all gay :slap: :rofl:

They are 8.5j fronts and 9.5j rears Will take some pic's on wednesday morning as I'm not home till Tuesday night now.

Modding the Zed is a nightmere. and very expensive. It Seem to be a 2 year procces from start to getting it almost bang on. Then because it is almost and your arse is welded ito the seat it takes anther 2 years to finsh the final bits. I've read the book seen the movie and eaten the pie.

Only genuine Skylark 17's are garenteed to fit. I got a st of eighteen for sale. As New and still in boxes. Mainia Vortex £400.

You can get them from any decent motor factors. There are a few people in the tintaweb that sell the Led type, but 2 things to remember. 1 is that you must get defuse LED as normal LED's are directional. 2 the problem you will have though is that Greddy Gauge faces have a inbuilt coloured film that dictates the illumination colour. So if you have a green film and you use red LED's, they'd light up brown. Blue LED's and they'd be turquas. Oringe film and Red will work. Blue LED's would make it Purple etc. Better to match the clock to the gauges.

No they don't sap power, because your exhaust gasses just go stait through as they would a staight piece of pipe. You'll need them for damping down the noise though. I'm looking to fit som sound matting under the carpet because when you on the motorway sitting at 95 ish the resonance does give you headhache after an hour or two.

When that was brand new I was 10 and they didn't even make the 240Z back then.

I once a Mk III Escort crushed like this between an Artic and a 7.5ton. The hole car was crushed to about 3 feet long. The wierdest thing though as we slowly moved past you could make out the warpped and crushed door window and there was the driver just watching every one go by. It was real eary