markzx

I have Noltech too but they need heat sheilding to prevent heat shrinkage caused by megga heat from the turbos.

If you have existing oil cooler feeds like a TT sump has then this may well work, but it will cost more than buying dirrect of a premium maker. + These kits are to replace standard cooler set ups and I assure you they would not be good enough to deal with trackday oil temps.

The best way is to get a remote filter take off plate. Sandwich plates aren't a clever idea. It means that you will have to locate your oil filter in a different spot (mine is bolted to the N/S chasis leg the feed out goes to the filter then on to the cooler and the return just comes strait back to the take off plate. You can have a presure sensor in that plate and a temp sensor in the remote filter housing. You'll also need a thermostatic valve so that it cuts off the flow to the cooler when oil temp is below 84 C. If you get intouch with Think Automotive the make all the mocal and scarab oil coolers and various componants. You'll need a 10 row 130mm core cooler with 5/8 fittings, A take off plate 5/8 with sensor fitting, a RFH2 remote housing in 5/8, an inline 5/8 sensor fitting and 5/8 ot/2 thermo valve and about 6 meters of 5/8 reinforced hose. (you can go bling and heavy steel braided ot the light nylon braided.

Unless you go for a large volume 3 core Alloy rad, but agree standard TT not a good as Standard NA. Even better to get a 3 core Alloy NA rad. sure Z1 do them.

I really dislike the look of that car but I'm sorry to say it, but I love that Blackcherry Red. That is a nice colour and i bet it looks stunning in the flesh.

I've raced bikes at Donnington and most of the major UK circuits + I've done a few track days at Donny, Brands and Silverston but they are just nothing like the Nurburgring. 1 lap of the Nurburgring will do to your brakes and tyres what a full hours session at a normal circuit would do. which is why it is the ultimate test for nearly all new cars. Remember it is a mountain road really not a purpose built race track with safe run offs etc. It has hairpin bends at the bottom of steep decents and on top of blind brows and blind bends with thick forest inches from the track. Till you've done the Ring you can't understand it. It is simply something you have got to treat yourselve to. Awesome. Then once you've done it you just want to go back and do it again and again.

Whats wrong with this pic of your car from when we did the Nurburgring. Its a sweat looking motor and Like I said i go for Silver with a twist and get the seats sorted. Infact i'll give you a bell later about some interesting OMP seats I have a good discount on new.

Cheek cunut Be very carefull doing the tango thing Chris Or it will look sh1te. There was a bright Yellow pearl Paul Bailey promo car and it really was in your face. The Orange again with your kit maybe too much. Steve Mochans car looks loverly, but it is fairly standard and SWB. Keep it silver with a twist.

I have Ferodo DS2500 on my cars and find that they don't squeel or create a lot of dust on the big Brembo's but on the standard Brembos and calipers they both squeel and create a lot of dust. On standard discs I find Mintex 1155 to be almost as good as the Ferodos + not as dusty and don't need as much heat to be effective, but then not quite as good when lots of heat put through them. I wouldn't ever fit Green, Red or Yellow EBC pads to my cars again. They all seem to be disc killers and the yellow pads warped a new set of discs in 2 days. Not fond of porterfields either. IMO they take too long to get to effective braking temp and dustier than the ferodos.

I don't like the Doluck wheels. Crappy bling IMO

Valmet do a nice orange or yellow

Anyone wanting a cheep S2 car could land a bargin. If you do win it remember to take plenty of tape to cover up the badges so you don't look a knob driving home.

Always a risk once you go cross county. Hope he was ok even if the car wasn't. Did You take trackday insurance out? Its used to be about £125 for the day, but covers you against loss of earning through injury and a limited figure for repares.

I thought you would have gone for Pink, or Brown :slap: :rofl: :rofl: Personally I think the Orange is very dated as it is a retro trend and will look crap in 2 years. Why not go for a silver pearl with a tint like Chrises (Deve8) but with a violet or orange in the pearl instead of blue. Would look sweet.

Exelent. Glad to see some of you chaps using the cars properly. Next time your doing it let me know and I'll try and come alone. I love Track days.

Better to get a shell fuel card which offers bigger savings and pay DD every month. You may have to be a rigistered business though I'll have to check and I think it is 5%, but again for the forum police "Si" I'll check before confirming.

I'd say thats been crush by a tree whist sationary. Can't see any other way to explain the damage.

Cheese :D :rofl:

Glad all OK. keep your head down and like Chris says don't be a hero. Just look after ya mates.

Here we go again. :headvswal What happen to the love :cry: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: They may not be dimentionally exact Mr Fungus but they are similar you tw@t and my modifications came as a result of me liking the AB-Flug. It is also a lot more modified than you may think as I removed a full inch in depth to stop it being too low and I made a winter and summer vent trap in the upper mouth piece. This means I can flow more air through in the summer and less in winter. What do you guys think. Is it similar?

Ah Computor game.

Looks that way Chris :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: WTF is it??????

No problem It would be my pleasure. I bet my blue Zed was outside Wasons Garage store. Or was I passing by.

Spining faster will generate more turbulance and turbulance=heat. Which will transfere to the air it is trying to Compress and compression=heat. The more you compress the air the more heat you inject into it. The more heat generated into the air the more it expands so in effect you end up delivering less oxigen into the combustion chamber= less efficient combustion =less power and high running temps. Even the Yanks say you can only get 450bhp out of standard turbines. You would defo need bigger impellors to make the gains your talking about and BB turbo bearings. They're the Johnny's. Yep defo do the job IMO better than the Doolz. Good luck, but before you go that rout on your turbos I'd be wanting to see Dynographs of the said cars to see what they really are delivering in everyday conditions. Also remember that You'll be driving with serious altitude changes in Austria so you'll need to detune slightly from optimum to avoid pinking & Det I'd still be looking at JWT 530BB's or Z1 GT600R's http://www.z1motorsport.com and remember their optimum figures are quote as when run on race fuel and every supporting mod required.

Here's what a doolz looks like and gives 2 independent air feeds. 1 per throttle body. You then stick a dual cone filter on each bank. Also standard Turbos would also need bigger impellors to push enough air volume to produce 450 RWHP. Even at 1.3 bar. all they will be doing is producing a lot of very hot air which is going to see your pistons off very quickly and not even produce as much power as running at 14 psi.