EvoluZion3

Just down to good timing then :) Going back to the myth-busters thread, I wonder whether it's worth having a kind of factual part, i.e. your own knowledge and experience from working on Zs, and a part where others can share/vote based on their own experiences, where you might not have had the personal experience to provide a 'professional' opinion, such as "do FMICs block airflow to the rad enough to raise running temp", "does removing the fan shroud affect the running temp", "will running an N/A Diff with a more powerful Z break it", "will putting 'x'-weight oil in damage the engine", etc. Just an idea.

I take it this is a response to my suggestion of waiting for the PTU to cool in an attempt to eliminate it as a suspect / identify it as the cause of ToyoII's problem. I have read this two or three times over the years, whereby people have had problems while driving (e.g. lost a cylinder/lumpy running), have pulled over, cooled the PTU (or IIRC one of them even swapped it with a spare), and the motor started up again, albeit only for a few minutes in the case of those that cooled the unit. Perhaps it was a coincidence and there was another fault. I'm not saying this is the issue with ToyoII's motor, just passing down a suggestion from the past... however... most importantly though, I think a myth-buster thread is a very good idea and the Series 1 PTU should be one of the first topics!

On most occasions when a Series 1 PTU is failing, waiting for it to cool down (or pouring some cold water over it) usually gets it going again for a while.

lol, I've no idea what club that guy was on about but it ain't this one! Thanks for the vote of confidence!

Happy Birthday Mark!

I couldn't really guess but what size pistons are they? Make of injectors? These may play a small factor in the value.

nice one mate - I like it! you just need to keep it brushed the right way, lol!

I always use V-Power, if not then BP Ultimate.

current Zedworld! :tongue:

welcome to the club and good luck with your search. PS £75 insurance increase from a 1.6 MX5 to a Z32 is a steal! (unless you were paying £1k for the Mazda!)

GReddy Profec E-01. Quite easy to set up, very menu-based and has useful displays, especially the graphing feature where you can see boost spikes, speed of spool-up, etc. Can be tricky to find somewhere to install the screen though!

Well back to the original post - I have to agree completely. A couple of my mates have been to their respective owner's clubs once for advice (one of them has a Clio Sport) and says it's full of kids who just take the p*ss out of your problem and don't offer any help at all. In all honesty I think we're so awesome we don't even notice it! :punk: :rockon: :bow:

I think some of those converters were forced to close down because they made it too easy to pirate music. Chrome has extensions you can add that still work though.

It's very good, and very unnerving. All you need to do is find 8 notes hidden in a forest... but don't look at the Slenderman... http://www.shacknews.com/file/32249/slender-beta-09-windows-free-game 0BswJKtn_9o

What a sad, disrespectful little man. :slap:

Great work Lee!

congrats on the sale Al - the new owner has got a beaut of a Z in his hands (and under his right foot!)

that looks a really good piece of work - deffo my favourite show from the 80's as well!

The best you can do Jeff is forward the email on to BT's phishing/spam email address if you've not already done so. What they do with it however is anyone's guess!

love it - that's going straight on facebook!

you've only got boost when your foot is down on the accelerator. in a manual you have to take your foot off to change up a gear (well actually you don't have to but you'll be bouncing off the rev limiter if you don't) and therefore the boost is dumped (either into the standard recirc system whereby it is reintroduced when you put your foot back down) or into the atmosphere if you have atmospheric BOVs and it is therefore lost (but you can get it back again pretty quick). The auto on the other hand shifts up without you having to take your foot off and therefore the boost is kept. Auto turbos have smaller internals to allow them to spool quicker because autos have longer gears (only 4 of them) and therefore won't accelerate as quickly if they shared the same turbos as a manual. On the road I don't think the difference will be noticeable between a manual and an auto of same power and condition so don't worry about it! Stock manual gearboxes also tend to be stronger than stock auto boxes (speaking from experience!) Personally I loved the launch my Z gave when it was an auto, but I much preferred to have control over the gears. Acceleration response between flooring the throttle and proceeding forward is much more direct with a manual because the autobox doesn't have to 'think' and drop down a gear before you get anywhere.

great work guys! :thumbup:

wow what a collection!

horrible to see those photos Jeff but glad to hear Zedworld is on the mend!

Saw it a long time ago but watched it straight through again just now - DAMN I want to go out for a drive!!!