touslecoq

yeah I had a new pilot bushing supplied and fitted with my RPS jobby too. Just thought what it sounded like. You know the groan you get from the water pipes in an old house when you turn on the tap. Kind of like that but a bit distant like it was in another room lol. Sorry that reads a bit weird - think I need to go to bed! Rich

Interesting. I got the same noise today (only once mind). It seemed to be as I was releasing clutch having put gone up from 2nd to 3rd. I only had a new clutch fitted on Saturday.

Thanks Vijay! Just checked the error codes after I'd been out for a drive and just go "55 no errors" which is good I guess. I'll try pressurising the system tomorrow and see what that shows up. I'm assuming that if I'm getting usual readings on the boost gauge that it isn't my turbos are cooked or is that a false assumption? Cheers Rich

Kirbz - hi mate! she is running fine apart from that. You guys did an ACE job of the suspension - really is a much better drive!! Thanks!!! I just got her back today from getting the clutch done and a few bits and pieces done. It is much better (apart from the power thing). The guy also fitted a smithy hard pipe kit and my rad pipe with water temp sender. He mentioned that he'd replaced the gaskets on the exhaust to turbo mounting - not sure if the problems could be related to that, but I think the BOV problem was there before then. I've got one of those boost leak detectors that you pump up with a bike pump if I can work out how the hell to use it :D. Paul - Not done an ECU check yet, but have a conzult and will do that now. I'm hitting approx 10psi boost on aftermarket guage. When I accelerate hard, it feels normal up to a point, but then when you expect it to really kick in, it doesn't. I think the point where I've tee'd off for the boost guage may be leaking a bit but not much so reckon its more than that. Cheers for responses lads!! Rich

Engine is running sweet, boost is registering on stock and aftermarket guages, but I'm just not getting the kick in the back I used to, and I notice that my BOVs aren't hissing anymore. I do get a kind of faint rattle when I back off though. Also, the turbo "spool" noise seems to be quieter than it was. Anyone got any ideas? Silly question possibly, but if I had a boost leak, would that mean that less boost would show on the guages? Cheers Rich

You're right mate. Sorry dont mean to tarnish the reputations of the reputable traders on here!! I've amended appropriately!!! :slap: Rich

Just had a call from the garage investigating the cause of my serious clutch judder ... Grasshopper Pro Sport who I paid best part of 1000 quid to fit a ACT clutch and Fedanza fly setup that would give me better clutch performance but with almost stock feel, actually fitted a 6 paddle ACT clutch and refitted the knackered stock fly wheel!!! :mad: :mad: When I picked the car up it felt wrong and so I turned round and went back to them, and they said "needs run in for a few miles". The original stock Nissan flywheel is knackered which is part of the problem, plus one of the bolts has sheared and so the "casing" (not seen it yet so not sure which bit) is coming away under load - thus causing the judder! The clutch is still fine apparently (and is for sale if anyone wants it - hardly done any miles) but is not fit for what I wanted. So I am basically best part of 1000 quid out of pocket :xxx: :xxx: :xxx: . I will obviously be engaging my solicitor on Monday morning, but wondered if anyone had any advice??? Bearing in mind this company was recommended on this forum, my advice is BE CAREFUL WHO YOU TRUST, there are a lot out to rip you off!!! Cheers Rich

Agreed - that front end looks quality! Was thinking about this myself - if you have a wireless network at home, you can set it up to automatically sync your music (or any other data) with your home PC whenever you pull into to the drive/garage. Very tempted to do one of these myself. Rich

Does anyone know how I can resolve the steering angle problem? - attached consult and it was reading 240 degrees right when wheels and steering wheel where dead ahead. - moved the wheel until conzult read 0 degrees and then switched of ignition. - moved the wheel back to neutral position - restarted ignition and conzult was still reading 0 degrees - this seemed to last for a couple of days but is now reading 240 degrees or something again. Am I right in thinking that the steering angle sensor is shafted?? Or is there a way to "teach" it what is neutral position? Cheers Rich

thats brilliant mate thanks! I'll have a look tonight. Since both wires were cut and had crimp connectors inserted when the car was originally converted, its possible that either there is a dodgy connection, or the converter is connected to the wrong wire.

Andy that does help mate, thanks! Haven't checked the manual yet, but is it likely that the conzult port gets its signal further down the line than the speedo? I.e. the clocks are destroying the signal before it gets to the conzult so no reading. There are 2 wires that have been cut (behind the clocks) for the convertor. One is yellow with a thin blue stripe, the other is yellow with a thin green stripe. Any idea which of those the speed convertor should be connected to? And should the other one simply be plugged back together (they both have crimp connectors on them) or left apart? Cheers Rich

I've been having the hicas/speedo problem for a while now ... ignition on, steering is fine, after a few minutes (time varies) of driving, the steering goes heavy and a short while later, the hicas light comes on. Lately, the speedo sometimes stays at 0, but this is not always the case and does not seem to correlate directly with the hicas prob. I have run a conzult on it and noticed the following: - steering angle was out by 240 degrees. Thought I had fixed this, but now its out again. Trouble is, conzult shows that it recognises the straight ahead position (the neutral indicator on conzult is enabled), but it reads 240 degrees right at that point. How can I reset this so that it reads 0 when the wheels are dead ahead and the sensor is in the neutral position!?! 240 is not a multiple of 360, so its not as simple as turning the sensor on the steering wheel round a number of times. - the hicas and engine screens on the conzult are getting a 0 speed reading at all times. This is regardless of whether the hicas problem is occuring or the speedo is working. Thought it might be the speed sensor, but in that case, the speedo wouldn't be working (which it sometimes is). If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know as its driving me round the bend!! Cheers Rich

:D Cheers mate. Why do you think the revs do that cyclic dipping and rising thing. Its like the thing is breathing or something lol!

badger stoat weasel :D

At the end of the day you can hit the print screen button (which copies a snapshot of your display into the clipboard), open paint or photoshop or something and simply paste and save. Don't think there is a way of suppressing this. the only way to guarantee credit to the intellectual owner is to doctor the image with some kind of banner that says who the owner is. trouble is if you put this across the image it ruins it, and if you put it off to the side it can be trimmed off.

Guys Just wondering if anyone can help with the following: - when car is sat at idle, it goes in a cycle. Every 10 secs or so the revs dip slightly, the dashboard lights get a little brighter momentarily and there is a relay/motor type click/whir from the drivers door. The revs then pick up again for the next 10 secs. Not investigated the click/whir yet, but just wondered if anyone had any ideas. - got an aftermarket steering wheel fitted, and been having the hicas problem (drive for 5 mins, hicas light comes on and steering goes heavy until ignition off) ever since. Invested in a Conzult (thanks Danny). The steering angle was reading 430 or something when wheels were straight. I've corrected this, but the problem still returns. then I noticed the conzult hicas screen is not getting a speed reading. I assume this is the problem. The speedo is working, but I don't think is accurate (another problem to fix). Any thoughts? - I had the clocks removed and the small (size of 2 dice) kph->mph converter was removed. To fit it, 2 wires up to the connector going into the back of the clocks has been cut and crimp connectors attached. The wires are both yellow, one with blue stripe one with green stripe. I don't know which one it should be inserted into, or whether the other one should remain connected. This may be related to problem above. Any suggestions? CHEERS!! Rich

Please give me a call as soon as poss. Cheers Rich

Mental note everyone ... never lock Rossy in a barn filled with disused farm equipment, some welding gear and a load of turnips :rofl: :rofl: Well done mate!!! :nana2: Rich

Cos has contacts which is how he chromes the headlight inserts. He may be able to put you in touch with them ...

Will do thanks mate!!!

Can they do the 4 wheel laser alignment as well mate? Cheers Rich

Thanks for your posts guys!!! The support in this place never ceases to amaze! :bow: :bow: Johnny - if you are reading this, sounds like you will be well missed mate. Must be a way you can pick up the pieces!!!

Nice one mate would appreciate it. Even if there is nothing he can do, access to his supplier details and a receipt/invoice would help so we can get it replaced if necessary. Thanks mate. :) Rich

That is a real shame (not just because of my predicament either). Johnny is a really nice fella when you can get hold of him (although thats kind of explained by this sad news!!). Any advice on what I do with the clutch??? They fitted it last November (think it is an RPS clutch and Ferdanza fly), it never felt right as it judders quite badly in first and reverse. Higher gears not too bad as gear changes are shorter etc. They said that it needed to be run in. The car has only done about 1000 miles in the 14 months since, but has got worse if anything. Its only now that it is back on the road and I could take it down to them. Obviously I am going to have to pay someone to take it out and check it is the clutch thats bad and not the fitting. If it is defected am I likely to be able to replace it or am I going to have to shell out yet more moula??? I can honestly say that after the sh1t I've over the last 14 months, I'm ready to get rid of the damn thing!!! :mad: :( :eek: Cheers Rich

Can anyone confirm what has happened to Grasshopper Pro Sport. They have disappeared from the traders forum, and Johnny has his phone permanently off!!! I heard a rumour, but need to confirm as the clutch they fitted to my car is knackered!!! :mad: :mad: Cheers Rich