TubZ

Still here, just been a whle and too long! Mine is the Grey with Body Bag on top ?

Maybe the plate?

Congratulations to an amazing couple! Hope you're both well. X

It's the Welsh number plate that increases the value boyo!

Cheers Jeff. Got in earlier after posting but detail is great logical thinking! Went straight to get a spare cut and have stored it in the tin with the rest! Hope you're good.

Guys, realise you can't reply here but if anyone can PM me and help, much appreciated. I've been out to take pics of my interior on my grey swb this morning and locked the only set of keys (I know I know, been meaning to cut a spare for ages) in the back. It's a slicktop swb so no chance of replacing a targa! Other than a tin opener, I know there were some tips years ago so if anyone can pm me I'd appreciate it. Normally I'd call Jeff, but, well as those older members will know the knowledge base is a little thinner on the ground these days.

Just to add to this while I search a similar issue, the '1038' in the belt code is the length/circumference of the belt in mm. My uk is a 4pk1038 and the jap one is listed as 4pk938

has been saved for printing and production post upgrade!

Nice conditon. I bought a set (bolster worn) last year for £150 to go in one of my Slicktops. I'd give you that or £75 with a pair of leather and non electric passenger part ex?!! £100 with a set of tweed part ex?!!

Hi Guys, As per my previous post I have 3 Z's and need to get rid of one. I'm selling the 1989 (25 years old this year!) TT Slicktop Auto. 136900 miles but most of this KMS and first registered in the UK in 1998, with 7k miles in the last 4 years. Have all old MOTs bar a couple from 1999 through to 2010 and a wad of history in the original wallet. Also One old bill of sale from 5/11/2000 showing 98035k and the rest as follows; 21/12/1999 - 91581 09/11/2000- 98104 28/11/2001 - 100628 08/04/2003 - 102527 22/04/2004 - 107505 17/11/2005 - 116651 28/11/2006 - 120442 13/03/2008 - 122609 03/03/2009 - 124805 06/03/2010 - 129383 18/03/2011 - 131174 06/02/2013 - 134373 18/07/2014 - 136891 I bought it last year with a view to converting it to Manual and just garageing it for a few years and maybe getting rid of my UK2+2 but i haven't got the heart to let her go after 14 years of ownership and will hang onto the other grey Slicktop for the time being. When i did my digging around and did my research on it, i found out it was owned by a Nissan Mechanic in Cardiff for a number of years. (have MOTS and service items from Wessex nissan Cardiff) and the mechanic told me who he sold it to etc....Original Reg was G551 UAL in case anyone else on here knows the car??? It's totally unmolested and has no mods bar the wheels and fibreglass spoiler. It's a lovely looking car and been very well maintained with loads of history in its original folder along with Japanese service book and Japanese "addZest" Stereo instructions etc (Original stereo not present :-( ) - Pics of this and interior to follow. Bodywork is immaculate and has two small paint blemishes on both rear arches and a slight scuff/blemish on the fiberglass (its been replaced at some point) tailgate (i am being fussy here, but you can see it in the pics). It's had 99' rear lens conversion and clear side repeaters and has a nice stainless single exit exhaust which sounds nice, despite me preferring a double exit mongoose on a TT....I hope you'll agree is a lovely looking car with great stance. Bad bits and reason for letting it go - Unfortunately last October it developed an issue on Cylinder5 and is only holding 70psi. I suspect a head gasket across the block to the rear...(no loss of Oil, or water, or mixing of either as they both are clean and runs clean via the exhaust except for smoke from Offside front beneath the bonnet when warm) - common issue with gaskets going on cyl 5 above the heat of the RH Turbo?) All other pots are performing well as per stats below, so suspect a cheap fix for someone, but I neither have the time nor space in my Garage to pull the engine (I also have my daily runner and camper van to contend with alongside a nagging partner!) and another slicktop that i had Jeff convert to manual last year. Cylinder 1= 165psi /11.5 bar Cylinder 2= 160psi /11.2 bar Cylinder 3= 164psi /11.4 bar Cylinder 4= 155psi /10.8 bar Cylinder 5= 70psi /4.8 bar Cylinder 6= 160psi /11.2 bar It was MOT'd on the 18th July so that i can retain the reg with the only advisory being the rear brake pads wearing thin and no mention of the misfire (cylinder 5) as it ticks over lovely and unless you know, you wouldn't suspect a running issue without driving it. I'm looking to retain the reg Plate ILZ 6295 (I Love Z's"!) and the Azev Alloys for my grey LWB, but as they look nice on the car would let them go with it if i get the right money, but hopefully you have your own thoughts on what you might like to put on and i could retain these wheels as they do look good. Based on the above issues I was looking for £3750 with the Alloys or £3200 with Standard jap spec alloys. No "Reasonable" and "fair" offer refused, but unfortunately I can't be tempted with a part X as I have too many toys already! I think if someone had the time to sort this themselves and pull the head/s it's a very cheap and rare Z that just needs some time and dedicated TLC to turn it back to showroom condition. I'd like to see it go to a fellow Z owner and for that reason it's only on here at the moment. I think the above is an honest listing, if you have any questions drop me a PM or give me a bell on 07818 607568.

Payment made. I last re-subscribed in January 2013 - No reminder in January 2014 and i assume my membership lasts until July 2015 now? As a club it should be yearly maybe and not annual? £even if you join 9 months in £15 for the 3 months of that year is worth it??? What do other members think? In other words, I'd have gladly paid my subs in January when I lapsed, but didn't get a reminder and assumed I was already subscribed...

Perhaps the only one on here, with problems that haven't afforded me the time to log onto forums and talk cars all day then?! NOt trying to compare problems or look for sympathy, just pointing out the reasons for my failure to 'Re-Subscribe' rather than 'subscribe' as you suggest - I have subscribed every year since joining in 2002/3 bar 2009 when i was in Austrailia. Was just looking for leniency based on my long-standing membership, previous support of the club. If someone on there took the time to set up Auto-reminders (as i have suggested on several previous occasions), or check a members history and just remind them to 'Re' subscribe it might actually generate more income? How about a set day each year for existing/long standing members so that whoever looks after subs/accounts knows what's coming in and when? I think your looking at this from the wrong angle is all...... I'm now going to look at how to make payment....

will sort my subs ASAP before anyone else starts moaning/deleting!

Just a note to say hello, as I've not been on here for a while or touched my Z's in at least 8/9 months :-( (changed the oil on one tonight!) I don't normally talk about my personal life much (especially on here, and despite the support i'd get i know!) but i've had a real shitty year and a lot to deal with. Long story short, a relationship breakdown last June, as she decided she doesn't want to Emigrate to Aus as originally planned for the last 10 years. Still living together through that coupled with our 2 year old getting bacterial meningitis out of the blue in December and being in hospital for 3 months has meant a lot of reassessment and reflection for me of late;-) I've been working away alot for the last 5 years since returning from a 10 month trip to the Far east and Aus together in 2009 and just come back from a week away sailing with my Dad and she's gone to Greece with the little one and mother in law this week, so i'm free to tinker and potch without getting moaned at ;-) Anyway, long story but i've had my original UKTT for 12 years now and been a member on here for about 10/11 years (I'm also getting older!) On a whim I bought two SWB slicktops 2 years ago as they were cheap and i couldn't turn them down. Plan was to take the NI number off one (ILZ - I love Z's!) and put it on the other and keep one as my toy and decide if i preferred the SWB slicktop over the UK LWb Targa (I do like the noise with the roof off), but the Slicktops handle even better! The grey One has the GR esfida split rims i finally had refurbed last spring that were sat in my garage for 5 years and were meant for my original grey LWB (DJZ 300), and the silver 89' has a nice set of Asef alloys. Anyway, all MOT's are out now after nearly a year away with other stuff but with a daily driver a camper and a RIB on my mates drive in west Wales it's time to pick one, pick which alloys and reg i want and get rid of 2! Once i've got them all MOT'd again i'll be transferring a reg and putting one, maybe two up for sale. I also have some bits i've accumilated for various mods (I had Jeff do a Manual conversion on the Grey Slicktop last year, so have a really low milage box, a Manual N/A box, a stainless LWB cat back exhaust with a small dent in one box and a set of LWB de-cat pipes if anyone is interested?! If mods are reading this, apologies for teh sales pitch amongst the update and also for not paying my subs probably as i've not been on for a while. Hope you are all good and i hope to try and attend a few meets/events this year (normally at Castle coomb jap fest but missed it again this year). Speak soon, Tubz

i have an lwb you can cut the boxes off and get pipe made up?

FFS mate. Just seen this! Will buzz you in the morning. Was in Cornwall till Lat Mon Night and come back to little one with a fever again...

Basically i'd like to know what the coil pack connectors should read (pulled off) and whether it should be pulsing changing voltages like the other cylinders seem to, and where the voltages for left and right pins, come from? - I'm assuming the CAS and PTU?? If the electrics were fine and i had compression issues, then the revs would still change when i pull this coil pack connector. At the moment, when i pull coil pack connector 5 at idle there is no change in engine speed/running. When i rev it there is a noticable cylinder down, keeping the revs up slightly and re-connecting there is a slight change in tone i think...Almost as though reving it provides more voltage.. I should have checked the voltages while revving to see what heppens...Will try this maybe tomorrow and see. I'm thinking wiring breakdown or CAS Failure next...

Gents the electricals havent been solved as i have wiered readings on this cylinders coil pack connector as per my original post. Plug was no different to cyl 2 or 4 and was swapped for the one in cylinder 2. I've driven over from mine to Anthony D's (30 miles) so assume i've burned some fuel under compression. If i had compression issues I'd see water out the exhaust. It's teh interpretation of my readings i need in order to pinpoint the fault. Ive just measured again and get 14.1v at centre pin, left pin 1.9mili volts (fixed) 2.0/2.1 on right pin(fixed) when i compared to cylinders 3 and 4 again a moment ago these readings pulse (change) on the left and right pins for cylinders 3 &4...

Pulled the plug and swapped it for another cylinder plug and problem still with . plug looked ok, about to swap PTU

Right guys, Injector Reads 12.7 ohms and Cyl 5 ,2 & 4 Coil packs all reading 1.1ohms then drop to 1.0 (presume this is because they are warm, but all Cylinders other than 5 are running) My original post said misfire, but it is infact not running. Ive had it on Conzult last night and done the drop test before taking it out for a run and then after (when fully up to temp) It seems i might get some firing and this is intermittent as the drop in RPM changes for 5 based on this? Anyone got any further pointers, tests for PTU/CAS or things to try on Conzult? The car has been lying idle for a while (just swapped for a decent battery the other day, and i'm only trying to getting running properly so i can lend it to AnthonyD (I'm at his now!) as he's not only Z'less but Carless as his co. have taken his co. car back while he's convalessing! Any further pointers much appreciated...

Yep. All injectors are clicking away..

I have cleaned "All Connectors"... and swapped the Coil pack for no.4 which was fine and 5's on 4 is also fine so assume the coil packs are good...I suspect the readings on the coil pack connector for 5 indicate something but not sure what?!! Not measured MAF yet... Have Conzult and have done a drop test but that's about it...No change on 5..

Got a misfire on my 89' SWB Auto on Cylinder 5. that is doing my nut in!!...I've read all the misfire threads and can't get any further...so i'm after pointers before i swap a known Good PTU - FYI...I've cleaned "ALL" connectors as a first port of call and then tried again, same problem. Swapped the Coil pack for a good one (no.4), but the only thing i didn't do like a fool in a rush in the rain the other night was pull the plug or swap for a known good one. I get the following readings on Cylinder 5's coil pack connector; Middle Pin = 14.22v RH Pin = 0.4mv to earth (2.5v to battery negative) - ?? (see below) LH Pin = 0.819v Compared these to Cyl 1 & 4; Cylinder 1: Middle Pin = 14.18v RH Pin = 3.4mv to earth (5.5v to battery negative) - ?? (above?) LH Pin = 2.3/2.5V Cylinder 4 Middle Pin = 14.17v RH Pin = 3.7v to earth LH Pin = 2.7/2.8V Anyone got any ideas?? I'm thinking PTU or connection to PTU breaking down as this Coil pack wire is actually resting on the plenum and allthough sheided i'm aware of how hot and brittle things can get, but i am getting some voltage and not none... Any further ponters much appreciated

Leaky Targas?! otherwise potential heater matrix leak?