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Try turning the ignition on and off 50 times to see if it clears the code but dont start it obviously or youl just screw something up.

Other factors like better air flow, ported/polished heads, dual intake i think these things need improving b4 more pressure can be had, and what compression ratio are you setup at? are you running on stock headgaskets?

PMSL look at wozz thats great

Ghosts?

Wow il have some of those please... Hmmm i wonder how the godspeeds handle the extra pressure, will be interesting to find out.. If you get it RR try find someone who will measure the charge temp on the dyno Please. It will put alot of minds at rest to wheather these ic's actually work or not. :D Oh and 420 at the wheel is FOOKING LOADS. stock is like 250 at the wheel or something just to compare.

Thanks guys :D

ya better get ya spray cans out then mate :D

Im still looking at ebay.. this is not good at all. i need to save for xmas ggrrrrrr

It was all your idea Radron, your colour scheme set me off :D

thanks mate, i been staring at that ebay shop for 20 mins now, dam u.. hmmmmm cold air ducting.... all the silicon i can dream of and shiny stuff :D

ooo you shouldnt have shown me that ebay link.... think im guna put something together with all those bits. hehehhahahaa balance bar maybe :D

HAHA i like this post :D

Ebay no, CZP i think 60 quid in total to my door expensive but worth it, the old ones kept loosing their thread was so annoying.

Took a nice pic today, is cold outside but at least the sun is out. C clamps are soooo much better than the crapy ones you get with the hardpipe kit. tightend up a gooden.

The vg30dett looks more attractive and symmetrical than any other jap lump ive seen so far.

Exactly :D

Happy birthday you nut.

Thats another festival/exhibition an f1 car is never left to idle as it will just over heat very quickly, They used to shuv loads of dry ice in the vents to keep them cool at the start up and warm up laps not sure if they still do this tho. Warm up lap is mainly to heat tyres and brakes.

Trust me an f1 engine is far different to a modern car engine, They are pre heated before they are even started, they have hot water pumped thru the coolant and oil is also heated. That video doesnt look like a warm up but more of a test or something exhibition maybe. Revving the tits off that while stationary cant be good.

Ive also read in owner manuals that the car should be driven to warm up and not while stationary.

Words from the guru: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=762996&postcount=30 And this is a the thread it came from: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=50649&highlight=long+warm+car I think what si is basically saying is its better to dry the car from cold than let it warm up stationary as it takes longer and this is when wear happens most.

a mixture of small discs and small calipers which create to much heat ending in brake fade. but also the size of the discs matters alot, as the pad grabs further to the outside of the discs which is better and doesnt need as much force to slow them down, the closer to the centre of the disc will require more force to get the same effect. For example: If you jacked up your car and spinned the wheel with your hands, it would be easier to stop the wheel spinning by touching the ouside of the tyre to say touching the centre where the bolts are haha Bigger calipers will have a bigger pad which means more surface area meeting the disc which also helps alot and of course more clamping pressure.

yes its bad mmmkay.

hmmm someone edited thier post???? but not yours si..... but i agree with damage when left to idle cold, best to drive it. Originally Posted by guynkate I agree to, I would have thought this was better than starting putting load on a cold engine well your very wrong..... ^^^^^

thats even massiverer mate. i got 340mm.....laptop.:tongue: unplug the abs ecu?