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JeffTT

Standard Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by JeffTT

  1. You need one of these, about a £10 from Halfords Jeff TT
  2. Very correct Legrath but if the operating rod was removed (before it was sent out ) from the non turbo one it would looks very similar and if then fitted to a twin turbo will not work, bearing in mind its most likely the garage doing the work are unfamiliar with the 300zx Jeff TT
  3. Maybe your car was an auto converted to manual using a non turbo kit?? only guessing, if you think it would help let me have the garage phone number ( e-mail it ) and can speak to them direct to see what the issue is, or get them to call me, maybe a whole lot quicker that way. Jeff TT
  4. You sure your have not mixed a twin turbo and non turbo master cylinder because they are not compatible (different internally as your garage said) and fluid pressure will not be deliverered to the slave cylinder as the piston will not be pushed down. Jeff TT
  5. No need, just use the one built into the rear window, works fine. Jeff TT
  6. The e-bay seller is where Mike and Luke used to get them from, the seller preferers to sell retail and hence there is no margin for traders. Must say having used the panels some years ago to sample the quality they are as described and make replacing a sill or wheel arch far easier for general welders, body re-builders often though prefer to make their own. Jeff TT
  7. Ok need some more details to help: 1 ) Is the noise evident when the engine is running but stationary, or when you move off? 2 ) Does the sound vary with road speed or is it engine speed related? 3) Does the noise get louder as you speed up or rev up or is it a constant level? 4 ) Does the noise occur in reverse,forward or both? Jeff TT
  8. No what I meant was to identify the fault swap the ecu`s so the diagnostic system will work. For the purpose of checking for faults ETC. swapping the ecu`s will workok, however the autobox will not change correctly with a manual ecu so its a temp only plan. Jeff TT
  9. Swap the ecu from your other zed and re-run the test. Jeff TT
  10. The belt runs the water pump, alternator and fanblade the oil pump is driven by the cranks so no worries there. The worse case is overheat, however it is not as likely as if the water had been lost from a leak. The body of water still in the engine block would act as a heat exchanger still but ususally the pressure will rise and water is eventually lost due to this, a good inspection is required but fingers crossed you got away with it. Good Luck Jeff TT
  11. Ah right, OB1 = On board Diagnaostic. ( Most Nissan 300zx up to N. reg ) Low level 2 self learn input system but read only no seperate EMFL ( engine management fault light ) mean the system is unable to react externally to codes, faulty signals or faulty sensors other than to compensate when the rogue signal or sensor is wrong but still in range. OB2 = On board Diagnaostic (N reg on, 16bit ecu) High level 1 self learn input /output system seperate EMFL (engine management fault light ) engine control system is able to illuminate the engine light on the dashboard when the o2 sensors are faulty or giving un expected bad signals. The system they are selling is primarily designed to work with OB2 as the 02 sensors circuit is completely active and can be manipulated by their system, the earlier OB1 is not active and if you have faulty 02 sensors your better off leaving them disconnected that way you get a good average signal, which is better than a faulty or out of range one, until such time you can replace them. Any performance additions to the car that leave you in need of one of these systems is unacceptable, correct mapping and tuning is the way to do it not by giving the ecu false signals, in my view this is as bad as the Ebay "Tuning system" that a simply a resister that is connected into the airflow meter circuit which fools the ecu into overfulling:mac1: Jeff tt
  12. Ok check the fuses in the black relay box on the passenger inner wing (under the bonnet) they are marked as headlamp left and right, failing that there may be a problem with the switch, if so let me have your address and can send you one to try out. Jeff TT
  13. If you mean that the main beam operates when only dip beam is selected, check see if the rear lights are on, if not the side light fuse has blown. The fuse is located in the fuse box in the drivers side footwell, top row 3rd from left, red 10 amp. Jeff TT
  14. The good news is, when most autobox`s fail they do not show a fault code because it`s usually a mechanical failure, so the fault code warning should help you pin-point any issues. Jeff TT
  15. To stop the power light flashing remove the redundant auto box ecu. Jeff TT
  16. Had SU carbs on a Rover SD1 V8 over 20 years ago, the needles and the needle socket wear and cause all sort of running issues, might be worth replacing them first. Jeff TT
  17. 10/40 semi synth all the way, fully synth seems to cause more problems than it solves. Jeff TT
  18. No, get a smaller after market wheel. Jeff TT
  19. The flashing AT check light is informing you that there is a fault code stored in the auto box ecu, follow the link below on how to do an autobox diagnostic. http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzj.html#auto_box The water is very likely the heater matrix, are the windows steaming up excessively? a sure sign of a leaking matrix. Jeff TT
  20. All the faults and troubles mentioned in the text applies to cars with OB2 diagnostic not applicable to zeds. Jeff TT
  21. Members selling is not so much a problem as writing off or breaking as the new owners normally register here anyway, have given loads of 300zx cards out to non members to encourage them to join. Jeff TT
  22. Mmm. yes the non Nissan ones may have issues who knows, I do not normally advocate the use of non Nissan parts but with economy in mind a non essential part llike this could be used. Thinking about this I will purchase one and do some back to back testing against a new Nissan one and report the findings here in a week or so. Jeff TT
  23. Took one of the sensors apart years ago to determine exactly what it is that fails in them, yes the hole can get blocked but that would worry me that the oil has not been changed very often, the unit fits in the turbo oil feed!! The unit is part Nissan high tech and part school project, oil pressure acts on a small diaphram, there is a small linkage that connected between the diaphram and an acting swing arm. The swing arm via the diaphram moves in relation to oil pressure,the upper part of the swing arm makes an electrical connection via a brass rubbing strip on to a variable resister that looks very similar to the insides of an old scaletrix hand controller. The section of track where the rubbing strip is infrequently sitting such as when the oil pressure is high ( when cold or higher revs) remain in good condition and so the rubbing strip makes a good contact and the gauge shows high pressure. Once the oil warms up and the pressure drop to normal or the revs are much lower the rubbing strip is now in a highly used area of the track and this is the worn part, hence a bad connection and a poor gauge reading. There is nothing to do except replace it, I have no idea of the quality of e-bay items but they do go for around £35 which is probably a better idea than a second hand one, but a new Nissan one alays returns everything to normal. The unit was used on the Nissan Patrol I think and most likely Almera Gt etc. Jeff TT
  24. Lets imagine someone was interested in a hypothetical 300zx with a wide body and big wheels been sold by a hypothetical dealer. If the buyer knew that the car at the hypothetical dealer had been recently returned following an inspection at specialist for a full refund because the car had numerous faults and an MOT that had been suspiciously leanient, would that buyer still be interested?? All hypothetical of course Jeff TT

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