JeffTT

No issue with getting a shock, you only need to pull one of the spades off to activate the fan, engine running or just igntion on will be fine, if it does not run check the fuses in the relay/fuse box on the passenger inner wing marked fan and sub fan. Jeff

Pull the temp sensor connector off should start up then, make sure you get a good connection after though. Jeff

N/A tuning is notoriously harder than turbo applications money for bang wise. The mapping on the chip your having fitted is limited to a few changes around the timing and fueling probably the rev limit raised too. Now unlike turbo engines there is nothing extra been taken into account for like the extra turbo boost on TT zeds so the chip is doing it all and thats not an awful lot. Best way to view the changes you will get are as improved drivability a bit more pick up and maybe more even running. However as its an unknown its difficult to say what the mapping is but as you suspect it is very likely a copy of another one thats available. One concideration when "chipping" any zed is the results are only going to be good as how well the engine is set up before the chip. Timing, throttle balance, throttle switch, base idle, etc. the best method is to set the engine up first and then add the chip. Small amounts of timing advance can be dialed in with even standard mapping but should be done with care. Hope it goes well for you, check the set up, get the timing done etc and give it a try and let us know.. Jeff TT

Oh dear, its sooo much easier to use the auto alternator loom, if I was you I would use the original and leave the manual one alone, you then only need to link out the pair for the starter park / neutral switch and add a short cable for the reverse lights. Jeff TT

Anyone who has met the canine staff members will know Cassie and Libby and how cool they are but can they carry off the following accessory? So the Zedworld pups went for their wash and shampoo at a different place yesterday and completely happy with the results but as a little spin they put neck ties bits on them and well they seem to love the things!! so what's everyone think ? kinda think its cute and they are girl dogs after all. Jeff TT Thanks to Mutley Make Over can reccomend them fully. http://www.mutleymakeovers.biz/

Hey up matey, thanks for the kind words and the wheels look good in place! looking at your down pipes might worth a look at these below, look very similar and nice and shiney too!! Janspeed is the make and very competitive price too, just might be quicker than cleaning yours up. Jeff

If just working an any single caliper, lock off the flex hose by means of a hose clamp, then the only air that needs removing is from the hose clamp to the new caliper. Bleed each one as it is changed to reduce any issues, also when bleeding do not press the brake pedal fully to the floor as this can sometimes pop the master cylinder seals as they get forced to a part of the cylinder they do not normally go to. If you have braided hose so cannot clamp off the flex pipes then a different method is required, first with the old caliper in place crack the pipe union at the caliper, then nip it again slightly. Now remove the caliper fully and tie up out of the way with cord or a tie wrap. Now fully fit the new caliper and pads etc. open the brake master resevoir lid and stretch some cling film over the top and carefully replace the lid with out tearing the cling film. Now work quickly to undo the flex hose from the old caliper and connect it to the new one, the cling film will reduce the amount of fluid flow from the undone hose as air cannot enter to let the fluid out.Once all done and tightened up, remove the cling film and bleed that particular caliper, will be easy as only a few pedal pushes will be required. Remember when doing the next caliper to fit a new piece of cling film to the master cylinder and repeat the process. Hope that helps and good luck. Jeff TT

Possibley your mixing the hose description up, the rear hoses that fit onto the pcv valves have onlys small disc reducers in,the front hoses on the rocker covers have the small brush type inserts in. Pcv valves that cause smoking have either failed by sticking open, or the springs have broken and subsequent blow by past the valve cloggs it up. Jeff TT

Cambelt check / change, engine service, brakes checks ,suspension checks etc. Boring I know but start modding with out doing them first an it can and often does end in tears. Jeff TT

The poor performance cause is clear to see in the engine picture, the cas unit is all the way to the right, so the timing is mega retarded or the belt is on wrong!! either way will be a major performance loss, who ever changed the belt did not understand about setting it up after, would bet things like the throttle balance will be wrong, tps, boost leaks all very common issues that get over looked by non specialists, the timing though will be the main power issue. Jeff TT

Just kidding!!! Here you go, second pic shows it in place top right hand corner of the engine. Jeff TT

Jeff TT

Ok anyone who has a series I knows how frustrating it can be that the heater vents are automatically controlled so you have no choice where the heat comes from. Series II models have a different set up and have direction control on the vents, series I can be converted using the later parts (ecu and control switching) but can be hard to get hold of and costly. So this in mind for a few ££s and an 30 mins work a little known work around and you now can have fuller surround heat in the Winter months with warm air option at the centre vents. All you need is a small two pole swith and a couple meters of 0.75 mm cable and two connectors. Fit the switch where ever you want, the heater pod side does make sense, route the cables down to behind the drivers knee pad, there are twe large heater ductings there, the upper larger one has a sensor located within it on the left hand side. Snip either one of the cables to the sensor and connect your new switch cable in series with the two ends. Now what you have is a Winter boost switch that will overide the auto feature and give you heat to the centre vents lower vents and side vents all at the same time, the only down side is the heat will be at full even, however using the switch as a control you can self regulate anyway. The difference in cabin heat up time and comfort level is surprising and will keep your fingers and hands toasty when Winter comes. I will add photo`s of the set up and wiring diagram if anyone interested, the switch type and part no. etc. Jeff TT

Need some more info first: UK or Jap spec? Turbo or N/A ? Does it make the noise your calling pinking (det) under load / off load or all of the time? Did the garage who changed the belt check / adjust the timing correctly after they fitted the belt? Are you running standard or tuned set up is so what boost level.( if turbo) Jeff TT

Just for your info and AndyP in case he gets a chance to help, you ths above is a red herring, I spoke to the garage who have taken a look at the zed in question and they have NOT hand spun the turbos, they have NOT checked the intercoolers and seem to be struggling to understand the 300zx turbo pipework layout, I am sure they have any area of expertise but the Z32 is not it, hopefully they undestood the method of testing I explained to them and if they did you should soon have a better idea.let see what tomorrow brings, if you could get it to AndyP though that would be a better option. Jeff TT

Good deal there, snap them up grimmer quickly. Jeff TT

Good chance you have blown a pipe off, the intercooler one`s are favorite for that, try removing the front undertrays and check the connections, failing that a boost leak check needs doing. Jeff TT

How are you conducting the "lamda 1 " test? The ecu test ie: via the inbuilt self diagnostic is very basic and can give the wrong conclusion either way, ConZult is the way to go with live readings. Jeff TT

When you say cylinders 4 5 6 are you counting them left right or all left first and then all down right side? good reason to be sure if all on one side it could be just a cambelt timing issue. Jeff TT

The coil packs will still work if the connections are switched around but get hot very quickly so my guess is you need to look at the 3 cable colours and cable sizes in relation to the one next one etc. Jeff TT

Nice one Steve, there you go Ken exactly why been a member of this forum is so satisfying and now I feel a group hug coming on ........ Jeff TT

Ok matey maybe I was not too clear whan I explained, as you can see in your two pics I have used you have the resister in the wrong plug, also the one next to it is not the correct one, however it does looks exactly like the one you are after so this can add to the confusion Again using your photo I have added arrows to where you should be looking for the correct two pin plug with the black and white cable, the white cable I add will be very dirty looking and not bright white at all However I have spotted something that might point to why you cannot find the correct plug, there are a series of connections that are non standard in the second pic, these suggests the loom has been repaired or new injector or coil patch leads added, it is just as likely the det sensor plug has been removed and the cable connected directly. You need to check in the area in the centre back of the engine, in fact the det sensor connector originally fitted on a metal bracket pointing upwards. If you just cannot find the correct plug or cable then the same resister work around can be done at the ecu in the passenger footwell. Jeff TT

TURN THAT BOOST DOWN QUICK OR THIS WILL HAPPEN Seriously get it checked out, meanwhile if you need to drive your zed take it easy and do not let the boost go over 14 PSI Jeff TT

Your ok Al no worries with helping out, just an unfortunate choice of recommendation as Zxtreme seems to be no longer trading.:x: Jeff TT

Ok dont panic just yet, with some more information it might be possible to take a more reasonable route than engine replacement. Ok so assuming you do have a seized cam then the previous noisy top end could have been a sign of poor oil flow to that area which has allowed the cam cap bearing to run dry. Lets assume this is the case then the usually the belt snaps and the engine stops dead did it happen this way? also more usually at low speed so damage is often not too serious. Has the sump ever been damaged ? not unknown for any sump dent issues to cause the oil pick up to be displaced and cause low pressure at the top of the engine. Once established that the camshaft is definately seized then removal is the next step and inspection of the camshaft bearings, and oil ways where possible but this is where it can get expensive labour cost wise so any external inspection is a good idea first. Having seen this very problem on a few occassions it tends to effect the right hand cams more frequently, most likely due to the design of the oil feeds to that head. With this in mind we have successfully released cams before by gently rocking the said pully back and forward ( timing belt off ) and then the cambelt can be refitted and timed up, try and turn the engine over by hand, if this is works then a compression test can be done to establish if there was any piston/ valve contact and if ok then its a good chance that by removing the effected camshaft and replaceing with a new or known good use one and new bearing caps etc. that the engine can be saved, this of course relies on ensuring the oil ways are clear so the problem does not re-occur. Of course damage could of been done so keeping the testing /inspection to the above tests etc is not too bad if it does need a replacement / repair to the engine. Good luck Jeff TT