JeffTT

Yes I know you just cannnot help your self though when the revs are just right and the road is just right and that sweet spot on the engine is there...... Jeff TT

Spirited or quick changes will show out any wear and tear in the gearbox synchro`s you could try changing the oil, the drain plug is magnetic and you will be surprised by how much metal bits will be on it. Some guys have changed the oil for thinner type such as Redline, however its just a stay of execution as wear and tear is the main issue. Jeff TT

Also check the flexi line as these can implode and hold on to line pressure after you have taken your foot off the pedal and it keeps the clutch slightly depressed although the pedal returns up, a faulty master cylinder can have the same effect, fluid lock can also be a problem if the pipework is close to the exhaust header and the fluid has too much moisture in, try changing the fluid. Jeff TT

Hope that helps. Jeff TT

Over adjusted clutch pedal? check the pedal with the engine running and make sure there is some free play. Jeff TT

Yes cool........ reminds me of a wholesalers I used to frequent some 20 years or so ago, they had a can of air freshener on the counter with a make shift bullsh?t sticker on and if any new or out of town engineers came in spouting off they would spray it in the air...... much to the amusment of the regulars:rofl: Jeff TT

Yes Vailliant have a top long term rep and the stainless steel heat exchanger is quite unique, the Baxi I like for its high flow rate on the hot water which comes into its own when used for showers and the double gas valve modulation and built in pump maintenance run timer which stores pump run times and when the boiler is used less in the summer runs the pump for a minute at set intervals (usually in the middle of the night )to prevent pump seizure. Jeff TT

chipped ECU with stage 1 chip...........280 bhp Jeff TT

Not a great lot wrong there, however if you look at a few of the figures some adjustments may be needed. Starting with the running temp, any kind of adjustment needs to be done at full running temp which is 80c your is close so you should be ok but would be aware that if there is any suggestion of cool running ( thermostat issue) that value could change on the road and drop you into safety boost. Tps value is at the top of the scale, and although the tps setting is more important with auto`s its good to get it right and 0.46 is a nicer setting, however before adjusting check the throttle balance first as if this needs changing it will effect the final figure. Engine speed looks a tad low, northing major but suggests the base idle need raising slightly. 850rpm is about right Auxillary air valve opening should be 15% or as close to it as possible, the slightly raised figure of 20% suggests the base idle needs raising slightly, this is born out by the low rpm above also. Normal base timing is 15 deg btdc, 25 deg btdc is a common setting when the gearbox neutral switch has failed or not been connected ( auto to man conversion ) no issue but be aware when checking timing with a strobe you must apply the 25deg setting not 15 deg. So in conclusion not too bad and a few tweeks will have it running tip top. Jeff TT

Jinx!!! Jeff TT

Very likely the output shroud on the end of the gearbox ( the tin bit ) slighly catching the prop, seen this a few times and will need a little nudge to correct it, however if only chatching slightly it will wear the touch point and stop making the noise as you have found so unless it returns I would not worry. Jeff TT

Steve hit the nail on the head there oversize is the key when changing to a combi, I can tell you after changing to a combi you will wonder why you did not swap it out years ago.Instant hot water that is at main water pressure so showers are very powerful and will out perform an electric shower easily. All boilers now have adhere to effeciency regs and a modern condensing combi is about as good as its gets these days, recovering lost heat from the flue via a second heat exchanger, non condensing boilers don`t stand a chance. Within the trade there are always favourites and getting a true recomendation can be difficult as the advise may be to go with a certain boiler type as its the one they get the best deal on. As always ask as many people as you can what type they have and you will get an end user view then, me I favour Baxi condensing combi`s due to their technical merits, not always the trade choice though due to unfavourable trade prices but parts and tech help desk is first class. Oh and dont get ripped off by smart talking reps, changing the boiler over is very straight forward and no new pipes need installing to the hot taps, its all already there, once the old hot water cylinder is removed its a case of blanking some pipes and reconnecting some a different way around. As far as room stats, let your combi run on the stat built into it, it then regulates the boiler gas valve modulation based on the return water temp, unlike a room stat which can have the boiler swithing on / off too much and is basing this on the temp in one room only. Jeff TT

when its in park my idle is quite high about 1200, but when in drive but stationary its about 8-900ish. is that normal? No the idle should be around the 850rpm when in park/neutral, when you move it onto drive the revs are automatically raised slightly to take into effect of the gearbox drag, this is felt as that slight creep you get with autoboxes when you release the brake. So back to your high tickover, this can be caused by: 1) An adjustment error a the base idle screw on the AAV 2) An air leak, a vacuum or bost pipe 3) A bad connection on the tps hard idle switch. 4) A sticky AAV or at least the section that deals with the cold start. At this point I would consider the base idle setting not to be a problem due to the recent cambelt change and set up. First what you need to do is some basic visual check, check around to see if any small pipes have popped off, take special attention to the small pipes under the main throttle intakes, this often come off as they have no clips. So with the engine warm and the high idle present, wiggle the tps connector see if the revs drop away...if so you have found the problem, if not move on to the AAV look towards the back of the balancer bar in the middle, an S shaped hose come out of it and attached to the cold run, once you have identified it then use a socket set extention bar or something similar and tap the unit, if it is jamming the revs will drop away and this will need cleaning with some carb or brake cleaner. and my other question is can the clutch go on an auto might be a stupid question but how would you tell? Autoboxes have multiple clutch units, these work in hand with the brake bands to preselect the next gear and then release the individual gear clutch at the right moment, clutch wear in an autobox can be felt as slip when the gear is about to select as in a manual that eventually will become an individual gear loss, usually top gear clutches fail first and work their way down as the debris goes through the box. Hope that helps Jeff TT

Here you are brightened up a little. Jeff TT

Yes in the main due to the " blame and claim " society we find oursleves parts of, the regulations covering fitters and engineers is centered on ensuring the fitter or engineer is coverered if something goes wrong, it not about training them to do the actual job. Jeff TT

Pretty much yes, I actually tape a couple of matches to the back of the bung, light them and quickly insert the bung back into the intake, wait a few second and then pressurise away. Jeff TT

Sorry I meant smoke matches but yes they are both from the gas trade and either should be ok, the smoke bombs just last a little longer. Jeff TT

They are Apex Performance ones which appear to be the exact same unbranded one`s on E-bay but with an Apex sticker added?? allegedly. Jeff TT

Get the boiler model and if possible the gs ( gas number ) from the boiler id plate, there is many (repairable ) things that it could be, changing the boiler is the last option unless its more than 20 years old. Not a good idea with out a Gas safety card, you could face upto a £20k fine for just opening the gas valve flange without the relevant qualification, annoying I know if you capable of doing the work, just be aware. You were correct also that a pressure switch or diverter could be playing up, mainly on combi`s they use magnetic reed flow switches, these become coated in scale which ways them down and hence they fail to trigger when the pump/ flow starts, soon as matey gives us more info it will be easier to diagnose Jeff TT

Is it me or generally a guy thing that shiney car bits like this look so lush... such a shame they have to reside in the crap the roads chuck up, of course not from a zed, in fact they are S14, weirdly they even had a nice smell....oh did I say that out loud? :biggrin: Cannot knock the quality of some of the stuff coming out of China these days! Jeff TT

Ok to follow on, once the passenger side pcv valve assembly was changed and fitted up we again did a boost leak test, to find as is often the case another leak, this time traced to the rear pcv valve pipe. The rubber pipe was in poor condition and looking from a previous tape repair had been troublesome before. So duly replaced and again we go for the boost leak test and again we now discover a further leak, this time a common one the s shaped pipe from the AAV, well the section that connects the valve to the balancer bar. This was again previously been an issue from the look of it, so replaced again and we move on to another boost leak test.....you guessed it another leak, this time the drivers side pcv valve pipe, now this was a mess having been wrapped in tape, when we pealed it back a large section was missing! So there you have it, finally no more leaks, the problem with multiple leaks is this is the only method to find them susccessfully, resolving one at a time, the biggest one first down to the smallest. The smoke bomb I mentioned earlier was meant to be smoke matches as below, they are completely safe to use with in the intake and will leave no residue, they really do help with the big leaks and this is where they work best. So a Conzult session and you can bet this is one zed that is going to feel mighty different now, no wonder it came in on a recovery truck! Jeff TT

There is more to come later on this.....:D Jeff TT

Boost and air leaks are a way of life for us in the workshop, but occasionally even we see odd ones that merit a photo or two. So to start with the leak was too large to build any pressure in the intake system and this makes it harder to locate as there is no sound, so we insert a smoke bomb into the afm intake and then when we pressurise again the general location of the leak can be seen as the smoke is forced out of the leak point. So having done the smoke test the general location was at the passenger side towards the back, so following a quick battery removal there now was more access to check it out. So with the extra access we again did a leak test and immediately found the cause of the issue and this was a first for us, the pcv valve pipe was completely disconnected from the outer camshaft cover. By the look of the oil deposits the leak had been evident for some time. Upon further investigation the pipe it found to be trapped by one of the plenum lower pipes? can only assume the plenum has been off in the past and when refitted the pcv pipe had become trapped. So a view from further back again with the inset picture showing the problem and the location Quite why or how this zed had been running and left to run like this is a mystery to us at the moment, maybe the owner will be able to fill us in more when he collects. Jeff TT

Some help here how to remove the tray and refit a second hand one. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=129211&highlight=battery+tray+rotten Jeff TT

Someone joining doing the same as you. Jeff TT