Smithy

Arr Gee thanks guys ;) Now if you would all care to go and vote for me for car of the year, i'd be very greatful :p Cheers smithy

Apexi EL Gauges, water temp, EGTand Boost all in A-pillar pod and an electronic AFR under dash. Smithy

For things like not quite knowing if the car is performing as it should, tbh another Zedder is the best person to know. What part of the UK you in ? maybe add it to your avatar. You could spend time and money messing around on the car but never actually knowing if it's behaving as it should. So hopefully someone in your area can take her for a spin ;) smithy

What's wrong with that, takes a while for the post to reach India yer know, i take it thats where they were sending the card to :D smithy

Thanks fellas :) smithy

Used to know this one, but never having done it myself am not so sure now, anyway.. converting a jap spec interior to a UK spec, fitting UK seatbelts in the B-pillar, as the UK spec is pre threaded in the pillar ?? and the Jap spec ain't, how do you attach the main securing bolt for the belt to the b-pillar folks ? :) Thankingyou... Cheers Smithy

Following on from Jeffs reply. Looking at the engine, on your right hand side and at teh front of the engine, is an alloy almost round shaped block, with 1 electrical connector on it and 3 bolts, undo the bolts and do as Jeff suggested. Before removing the bolts though, just draw a pen mark around their head where they pass through a slot, this will hellp ensure the CAS goes back in the same position as it was before you removed it. If you do not hear the injectors click, it's knackered, if you still have your old engine with CAS attached to it, just put that one in. smithy

TBH mate, the Doolz out of all the kits on the market puts the cones the lowest down ever. Why not try this, tape a sheet of plastic completly across the mesh on the front of your bumper. Drive in heavy rain and even put a hose over the car and see if the car still performs in the same way. If not and the car is okay, theres your problem, it's water soak from the incoming rain/splash through your bumper mesh, if is still the same, then it's the headlight panel. I made quite a few induction kits years ago for the Primera's in the UK, based on a US design called a CAI, you can actually buy a water soaking filter that goes inbetween the MAF and the cone, to prevent such problems. You would have to search the word CAI on the Primera forum to find it's name though. Anyway try the test i said and see how you get on, oh driving around with a plastic sheet in your bumper mesh won't cause any problems short term. Cheers smithy

Stu, will yer put up a pic of your induction kit mate, you have the Doolz don't yer :) smithy

Here yer go mate http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzaa.html Yeah certainly turned out to a mini meet that morning, especially with the youngest one there being a mini 2 year old :D cheers smithy

Stalling and wee bit of smoke are the usual sysmtoms caused by an air leak. Look all over the engine bay for any split pipes and missing or loose clips and under the headlight panel where the re-circs are. If you can get yer hands on a boost leak tester, great, other than that sometimes soapy water on the hoses works. Cheers Smithy

Fewer the pucks, the quicker it wears out. smithy

That's the ticket :smash: cheers smithy

Any reason why you want to run 24psi ? don't matter what claims are made for the amount of PSI the tubs will run, it's all down to what works. Many many of the high 400 and mid 500bhp Zeds only run around 18-20psi area. If it was mine, fit your EBC and when funds/time allow have the likes John Dixon map you car and set your boost to suit the power. But certainly increasing boost can actually lessen the bhp in some cases. smithy

Yep, http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzf.html Check it out mate :) smithy

Did yer hear back with owt mate ?? ;) smithy

Fraid shipping to the US is more expensive than shipping from the US mate, sozz. As andy says, best try and flog it in UK if they appear to not to be helpful and sort things out to your satisfaction. On a plus note, what you paid is reasonably cheap so you should in theory get yer wonga back if you sell it over on the zclub perhaps. Good luck mate :) smithy

Biggest worry mate is sending it back. It is bloody expensive to ship back unless the land/sea service is used and that takes over a month sometimes, so you wouldn't maybe get a refund from supplier until it's arrived there! Oh and some US suppliers will not take into account duties paid when doing swaps on products. Just a heads up for a possible battle, sozz smithy

Good to see steve, looking well ;) But geez, how long has it been now bud ? cheers smithy

Hows yer leg muscles :D smithy

Why is yours knackered now bud ? Jeff not have one for yer ? cheers smithy

Nice to see mate ;) Manual conversion done last month at Paul's holding up well now with her all running sweet as it should ? cheers smithy

If you were beyond say the usual exhaust, normal induction, chip and de catt, then yep a nice little upgrade would be the twin. You should feel a slight increase in torque and it sounds a wee bit different too. Dave, i've had vented panels all the years i've owned me zed and no issues. You can try loosening the the hose clip on either end of the top horn shaped pipe after the MAF, You can then twist this pipe and the cones can face more upright or angled as you like mate ;) cheers smithy

Nope not at all, it's about getting as much air in as possible, if you can get it in, the hot wire will sense it and start the 1st signal to the ECU. Look at cars say like cossies, they tend to have cones the size of TV's, cos they have the room to fit one and they also work on the same principal. Pipeing before the MAF is no where near as important as pipeing after the MAF and it is the volumetric size of the MAF that determines how much power it will acheive. Just 1 other minor benefit of that set up, many zeds suffer from wet MAF's with single cones whereby water spary in winter is soaked up through the cones pointing downwards, these twin set ups dont have that problem. cheers smithy

Glenn's is only meant to be an improvement over any single cone set up and it is. Not only is the MAF still in the standard location meaning the pulsed signal from the ECU is the same strength, the air gushing in has a few ins to channel before entering the MAF too. A design taken from HKS which is shown to work and be better than any single cone on the market. Silverbullets and Steve's is totally different and meant to be as high performance as possible and thats only acheivable by removing the MAF on high powered cars and they have achieved that and removed the MAF... Anything under 450ish (at the wheels) is not worth doing it with. smithy