sb007

The VW/Audi oil is way too thin 0/30 if i remember correctly, i would reccommend castrol RS 10/60 or Mobil 1 Motorsport 15/50 Baz

Barry Smith: At age 59 while playing Tekken 23, a burgler will break into your house. A fight will ensue and you will lose. Baz

Your cheapest and easiest option is to find a good second hand box, not changing out of second is a classic dead box symptom Baz

I've fitted a sucker on the back as well as removing the aircon and standard fan, the only reason for this was maximum airflow getting to the rad.

Your problem mirrors the problem i had with my last Z, i changed the shift solenoids and fluid first costing about £200 but the box was dead and ended up having a manual conversion. Baz

You just need to have a look at it, i went to look at a UK Manual TT with 140k on it before i got mine, it had full nissan history and shed loads of paperwork so i thought it would be worth a look but the car was a shed. I don't think dealer history with these cars is the be all end all, it depends on how well the owners have treated the car. Baz

The cat is part of the front pipe, the jubilee clip just holds a protective cover. You'll probably need to split it from the downpipes. Baz

Cable tie them up out the way, i'm pretty sure if you cut them off the light stays on. Baz

They're not a difficult DIY job, no special tools needed, they're quite expensive though, about £230 for the pair. Baz

Hi Mate, I've fitted a Koyo rad and 16" kenlowe fan to mine, i've set the thermostat control to 85 degrees, the car normally runs at about 80 degrees and NEVER goes above 90. I've had this setup for about 6-8 months and not had a single problem, the car warms up quicker so i get a good heater quicker on cold mornings and can only help fuel economy on short journeys. HTH Baz

Very lucky, i've just rebuilt the top end of my mates vaux 2.5 v6 which is fitted in an Astra GSI, a bolt came out of the rear cam cover and jammed one of the inlet cam sprockets, it took out 18 valves a bunch of guides, broke the ends of both inlet cams and damaged the sprockets, not a fun job. Baz

I cant see anything the same as that at the rear of mine but it does look the same as a boost solenoid plug. Baz

The connectors are completely different. Probably a knackered reverse switch. Baz

I use mine as a daily driver and do 5 miles each way to work and back and then general running around. Driving normally with the occasional blast i get about 18mpg. I don't do alot of motorway driving but i estimate it rises to late 20's Baz

Depending how bad it is, replacing the valve seats will probably solve the pitting around the valves. Pitting in the face of the head can be aluminium welded and re-skimmed. Baz

Hope this helps Baz

You can't tell from that pic, you need to remove the 4 screws holding the board in and see if the chip in top left corner is soldered in or in a socket..socketed is modified. Baz

Cut the pipe and use a socket, i did mine with the engine in too, never again :headvswal Baz

I've removed all the emmision control crap and it made no difference to the MOT. Baz

TT Auto ECU Ebay, item number...220012304228 Baz

It can be removed by removing the gearbox for access, i removed mine this way and it was a pig of a job. You could disconnect the EGR solenoid in the top left of the engine bay, blank off the vaccum pipe to the EGR valve and remove the redundant vaccum pipework, this obviously leaves the valve itself and the pipework to the inlet manifold in place to be removed at a later date when the engine is being worked on. Baz

The rear subframe is different and won't accept a TT diff so would need changing too. Fitting a TT diff to an NA would make it slower as the final ratio in the TT diff is higher than the NA's so isn't really a worth while mod. Baz

Hi Mate, I got my megan decat's and downpipes from chris@getgreddy, if you go for downpipes too they are considerably more awkward to fit, i fitted mine while i had the gearbox out which made it much easier. Baz

Gun metal on black goes well. Baz

I work on alot of gas engines, they do burn much hotter than petrol and on some engines do damage valves/valve seats but on others are fine, you could do with speaking to someone who has converted the specific type of engine your looking at doing. Baz