groover

I think i looks nice as it is :yes:

Roof leaks are often difficult to pinpoint, but if its the middle, i would first take down the roof liner and see if there is any obvious signs of where the water is getting in, then get a bucket of water or run a hose on the roof and sit in the car. If the its the roof bar seal, remove the 10mm bolts, remove the bar and use some sealant before re seating the bar. If the front outer rubber is perished or cracked, chances are you may be getting water in there. I have to say its not that common for the centre bar to cause leaks.

A year old thread not sure lol. but if you are having a leak in the same place, it could well be the centre roof bar front rubber piece deteriorated and letting water in, very unlikely the targa seals or drain tube is to blame in the centre

Yes you can modify the TT pump or just fit an NA pump and bracket and iirc you may need the TT pulley for the NA pump

I wouldnt expect anything less from you :bow:

Congratulations Alex and good luck for future events:thumbup:

Im totally with you Paul and we will see what we can do. Just something to think about, that if our members do not support our traders enough throughout the year, it would be very difficult for them to give away an item, for a prize of any worth if not much return has been seen over the year.

Yes basically pull each pack one at a time and the revs will drop, if they dont then you can target that cylinder for further investigation

They have a spring with a tip on the end akin to a bush in an alternator to make contact, have you pinpointed which cylinder is down? Dont say 6, Dont say 6,Dont say 6,Dont say 6, :lol:

Sorry to hear the news Dave, after all the turmoil you went through in getting her on the road again, so glad no one was hurt and hope you manage to get sorted for your house purchase.

Have you seen the difference in the amount of members?

You could do with plugging in to consult or datascan, if its electrical it should give you a more definitive place to look

All the best Dave, hope you have a great day :happybday:

You could knock a few out for those of us who cant knock one out anymore :lol::lol: I would rather someone knock one out on my behalf :biggrin:

The only thing that springs to mind for that scenario is the aicv. When cold the ficd acts as a choke and once up to temp it turns off, so could have a sticky ficd (fast idle control device) which is attached to the aicv. To do an initial test when the engine is warm turn on your ac and see if the revs change or you hear a click.

It stops the flex in the brake cylinder, if you get someone to press the brake hard while you watch the cylinder you will see why:thumbup1: Alanz iirc can make stuff like this, but he is a busy man :biggrin: Any engineer or metal worker here should show themselves now :punk:

The ptu is known to cause starting problems when hot, could also cause irratic running as it controls the signal to the coil packs. At first i thought MAF, injector terminals can cause misfire and lumpy running and loss of power, but would be constant rather than when warm. I would change out the PTU at least to eliminate that end of the coil pack.

I think you take the split pin out of the white plastic assembly and it lifts off, im pretty sure the it all just lifted off when i recovered mine years ago.

MJP will do the belts and will know of the top of his head the right part numbers too lol

Tokico gas shocks and Eibach springs, seems fairly comfy and positive and with whiteline anti roll bars front and back hardly any roll round the bends. My fronts actually are now stock dampers but still with Eibach springs after mullering one side due to a pothole in the road :thumbdown:

We must have a few members on here who are handy with lumps of metal :yes:

A mod ive been meaning to do for years :biggrin: surely we must be able to get something like that made here in the UK

Rather than everyman and his dog just sending you stuff and expecting it yesterday :lol::lol:

Image from a LHD but should give you an indication of what to remove to get to the glovebox if you need to remove it

You may be able to do it without taking the glovebox out of the dash, you need access to the screws on the inner lid and the bottom hinge screws, it comes apart in two halves, so you have the outer visible glovebox and the inner skin, behind the skin you can then remove the lock. Easier to do than explain lol