groover

It sounds more like a loose connection in a pod or behind the dash binnacle, if it were a relay i pretty much doubt it would effect the dash lights. There are relays, in the engine bay for the headlamps, also check the fuses, which are located behind a flap in the kick panel next to the accelerator pedal. With the bad weather it is also possible that water may have got behind the fuse board in the drivers well and created a short. Its gonna be a case of trial and error. A process of elimination with an intermittent problem, sometimes you just wish something specific would blow, at least you know what it is then lol. Good luck Graham

To be honest, only running it 5 miles a day it wont even start to get the oil warm in the box, with that in mind it is likely as paul mentioned that you may have a blockage or debris. Try giving the car a longer run out at the weekend to get it all warmed up properly and see if you notice a difference. Cheers Graham

Here you go bud lol http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=82551

You can pay cash into the Lloyds bank account listed in the payments section, if you have trouble finding it i will post a link in your thread. Cheers Graham

The TPS ( throttle position sensor) if slightly out will effect gear change. When you drive, take you foot off the accelerator slightly like you would change gear in a manual and it will probably change up, if so then its likely the TPS is out slightly, but will be easier to tell if you can get it on consult ( diagnostics) I find that it gets better as it warms up , so you may have a slight blockage, somewhere. JeffTT will have come across this many times and will probably have a definitive answer. Cheers Graham

In the faq section, you will find the Auto to manual info you need

Sorry to hear your news bud, be strong and i hope you and your family reflect on the good times you all had rather than dwell too much on your loss, as hard as it may be. All the best to you all at this sad tme. Graham

I'd never sell, im looking at buying another one aswell, but i love it too much to even think of getting rid.:D

Hi Bud It has a torque convertor, the problem you are having is not uncommon with an autobox. Old oil, clogged strainer will hinder the line pressure the box needs to operate properly. You sometimes find the box changes better when the oil has warmed up, thus allowing better flow. Mine does this when its cold and wont change to top gear till its warmed up and has the same sort of symptoms that you describe. Also my TPS is slightly out which effects gear change. Im having mine converted to a manual this week, so wont have any more problems with it. A good oil change and clean the strainer will make a big difference, if the box isnt already fubarred. HTH Cheers Graham

An auto doesnt have a clutch

Hi Husam, glad you got it sorted, good luck with your new arrival.:dance: All the best Graham

1st dibs on the all the suede panels if they are all available. Cheers Graham

So you are getting power to the fuse box if the lights work, interior light, stereo. It would point to either a relay which for testing purposes you should be able to interchange. There are also some relays in the main fuse box under the bonnet, which at least for the air con is there. If you look at the online manual, it shows you where all the relays are, the ones inside the cabin are under the fuse board and not behind, you need to remove the triangle shaped plastic kickpanel by the accelerator pedal. there are a few relays scattered around under the dash, in the passenger footwell also just above the kickpanel. The online manual EL-144 shows these. Cheers Graham

The accessory relay may have blown, thus not allowing power through to the fuse board. Do the lights, int light, radio work? There are relays below the fuse board, accessed by removing the kick panel around the fuse door/flap. The power is supplied by the ignition switch, so you could look for a break or short. Its unusual for none of the items, in control of that fuse board, not to work. There are also fuses in the engine bay to check. Have a look at the electrical section in the online manual. EL 144 . Hope this helps. Cheers Graham

Dont worry Daz, any info or knowledge given is invaluable. There may be certain how to's and methods that you have encountered, the more input the better.Feel free, to talk freely about the subject we all love. As i mentioned before, there is only a problem if you advertise the fact that you might have 20 zeds youre breaking for parts if anyone wants anything, then of course, you would need to look at becoming a trader. There is nothing stopping you from asking to become a trader if you wish, just drop an email or start a thread to (Brian) znut, who is the TLO and go from there. Good luck bud and happy posting........ Cheers Graham

Giving advice or comments are always welcomed, the only difficulty you will come across, that would require you to be a trader, is if you are selling something on a regular basis and is an obvious business. Many members sell spare parts they may have, some more than others lol. If you have a car to break then there are going to be a fair few bits for sale. There is an obvious distinction between the two. I hope this clears it up in some small way. Cheers Graham

All the best allan and well done Kim for all your hard work and support, all the best to you both. Cheers Graham

Hi Mate, its hard to be exact without pics, have you checked the fuses inside the drivers footwell behind the kick panel? I assume by front compartment you may mean those anyway. Electric mirrors not working would point to a ground on the doors but unlikely for the climate pod or glovebox light, have the pods been taken off for any reason? and if so check the connectors on the back of the pod fronts. The glovebox light, by the way only comes on when you have your sidelights on. HTH Cheers Graham

they both work from the same rod that turns the cogs, i have one apart here to look at, if one wheel is slightly out then the rest wont turn too easily. I will have a quick play and see if i can get them to do it.

An led does not require as much current as a filament bulb, therefore will flash faster when replaced with leds due to the voltage given out from the flasher unit. You need a higher powered resistor in the feed line to increase the load, it acts as a choke, i have them on my rear led light set up, i cant remember the value off hand but will have a look tomorrow in daylight to check.

""So today I have put my uk clocks in and turned it to read the same mileage as the other one was in kms. Again though nothing." You say you turned it to read the same mileage. Do you mean you adjusted the cogs? If so you my not have them lined up correctly or have 1 cog not touching the wheel

There should be 2 shims for the back of each pad, for anti squeal and keeping the pad in position, they should be lightly coated with copper grease, again helps with squealing and repelling water. The soft material on the back of the mintex pads are like a factory shim i think, but you would be better of getting hold of the original shims. HTH

Hi Dave, it wasnt removed, just one of the first attempts a while back to tidy up the faq section by combining under the same heading all relevant info. Nothing useful will ever be deleted or removed,. as any snippet of useful info is valuable Cheers Graham

moved to the right section

Although front fogs are not a legal requirement,any light fitting, fitted to a car is supposed to work. Having said that i had 1 front fog lamp bulb out and it passed the MOT, depends who tests it and where by the sounds of it, re relevant posts on the subject.