dublove

I had this problem on my 95. I thought I bled it properly however I was able to make the brake pedal touch the floor with little effort. My only reference was the fact that this was not possible before I started bleeding the brakes. I did ponder the fact the the 95 wsm says about abs actuator nipples and the mine don't have them! I bled it again with no change. Then I decided to rig up a pressure system for the new fluid so I could fly around all the callipers rapidly working the nipples. Lots of tapping the brake lines and callipers too. This made a fair difference - enough that I was able to take it out to bed the pads. After the pads were bedded in the brake pedal firmed up massively, pads flexing slightly on the disc! I've uploaded the 1995 workshop manual if anyone wishes to have it http://www.filedropper.com/1995300zxmanual

nice one, pics are appreciated I've attached a picture of my current dash. The four blue arrows show where I hacked into the plastic. The edge the yellow arrow points to looks like is missing something but does not look cut. Maybe I did a really good cut on it :) Not going double din btw, just back to the plain old oem bezel with two pockets. Anyhow am partway through wrapping the oem bezel with 3M di-noc carbon. Fiddly business so have to see how well it turns out. preview pic below.

Changing from having a touchscreen in the radio bezel, and going back to the standard twin din oem bezel. Problem i've just remembered is that I had to hack away parts of the dash in order to allow the touchscreen to fit in correctly with it attached to the rear of the modified radio bezel. From what I remember there are several metal brackets & plates that bolt in there allowing a din cage to be clipped in for the stereo unit. I should have these brackets somewhere :( Can anyone photo me up so I can see whats missing and where it goes? Just hoping i didn't hack away parts of the dash where the metal brackets fix to... thx jay

hey eggs - says you're in somerset, can you tell me who you used for the foam? I've found only one place local'ish to me (Cosyhome in Glos) all the others seem to based up north!

I'm in a similar situation to you. However I budgeted to get a sprayfoam contractor in. Been building my workshop for the last 18 months, and finally put the steel roof on in August. Pitched roof with steel z purlins going gable to gable means I have a completely open attic void with no trusses in the way. Lots of storage! Anyway I researched insulation options quite extensively. Apparently difference of around 1-2 degrees between the inside air and the outside will cause condensation. You have several options which I'll list worst to best: 1) EPS sheet cut to fit Will work BUT will be flush against the valley on the corrugated sheet. This means the crest of the sheet is forming a void above the eps panel. Air will get in there either from inside or outside and it will still condensate. If it gets really bad it'll drip down onto the eps and run down until it find an exit. Every joint needs to be taped to stop the air going up through to the roof sheet. The other major issue is fire - even the fire retardant stuff burns real bad. An angle grinder spark will just go straight through it. 2) Foil backed Kingspan style stuff Easier to work with than the EPS, better fire ratings too. Foil backing means that you can tape the joints much easier and effectively and in doing so you form a 'vapour barrier.' Very expensive though 3) DIY sprayfoam Very effective - it will get into every gap in the roof and seal it. It's 'closed-cell' foam meaning it is waterproof. You will end up with a well insulated warm roof. It looks easy to apply but I bet its not! :) Bad news - diy spray foam kits have no fire rating! The stuff you see online that says this and that about fire actually refers to a German B1 rating which is basically means it will combust/ignite 4) Contractor installed sprayfoam Get a pro in and you can have british standard class 0 fire rated foam. Hold a blow lamp on and it'll melt but not catch fire. Cost is not exactly cheap - I've had quotes for 60m2 at 50mm thick range from £1300 - £2500. They all tell me they would have my roof done in 1/2 a day. Funny angle photo of my roof below

I can tell you 100% that the mp4-27 is 5110mm long. The mp4-26 is actually slightly longer at 5159mm. Previous years are around 500mm shorter...

Saw a Reg G reg at Yate American car show in the car park...

Hi bud, no definately does not sound like that. The slower knock like noise sound goes away when increasing revs up from idling, and also after running 10minutes of idle.

Hi all, Have a listen to this clip on youtube. It is exactly what I am hearing on my own Zed. Saves me recording a video :) [YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE] There are two sounds in the video, first the higher pitched faster tapping which has a regular rhythm but behind it there is a slower knocking kind of noise. The later is what I am concerned about. Is this the hydraulic lifters I've herd about of is it something worse developing? cheers, jay...

Its a bus stop outside with one of those giant raised kerbs!!! I cannot believe the 300 was able to drive away. Surely the cops could have followed the oil trail from the sump.

Check this out: They rammed a T-Shirt shop in Clifton, stole a load of shirts and threatened an onlooker with a gun... I want to know htf the nissan was even able to go up the kerb. It's huge!!! http://www.thisisbristol.co.uk/news/Ram-raiders-threat-shoot-helpful-student/article-3128952-detail/article.html

Anyone have an recommendations for a similar situation below? Looking at insuring a jap 300 & now a 4x4 (v8 jeep cherokee) Currently insuring the 300 with A-plan, whom I will be calling tomorrow. Can't trust the comparison sites as they lie! Totally different prices from the same insurer, just by quoting on say moneysupermarket.com v's comparethemarket.com. Would appreciate any input you have cheers, Jay :)

Dumdum is what you want to use, sure that's the right name for the stuff. It's the same stuff that comes with the seals if you buy them new, also the same stuff that comes on a roll with 99 spec rear corner lights...

Absolutely gutted :(

Hi all, Got this prob with my aircon. Hard to describe so i made a video of it so you can hear the sound thats bugging me. It's a kind of squeal noise that cycles. Only happens with the aircon switched on, and the sound is coming from the glovebox area. I had it re-gassed last summer, and the sound was already there but not so much. Re-gassing didn't stop the squeal. Already the aircon is not very cold... You can hear the noise start at around 14seconds into this first video. [YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE] [YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE] totally not sure where to look on this one? :( thanks guys

missed this, thx for the bday messages guys! :)

thats pretty helpful thanks :) the question is now where to get one at a decent price!?

Just wondering how this plumbs in really. What I don't understand is that the AVC-R comes with its own single solenoid. But the zed has two turbos and two solenoids. So does that me I need to order and additional solenoid? The manual on Apexi's site makes no mention of linking up two solenoids to the AVC-R? Lastly, where can I get one for a decent price? thanks, Jay

try these - i use em in work. http://www.precisionprofiles.co.uk/ http://www.fixingsupplies.co.uk/ just had a quick check - high tensile or stainless available in the size you want..!

Well i been investigating the bulb holders and look what I found. The kerb light holders are absolutely fine but the indicator ones well... Needless to say a good wire brushing and everything is back to normal now

One of the bulbs died last week followed by the other side a couple of days later. I put new bulbs in yesterday only to find it don't work. Heres what happens; When i use the indicator stalk the rears and wings flash fast. No voltage measured at the front bulb holders. When I use the hazard switch the rears and wings flash normal speed but again no voltage measured at the fronts. Checked the fuses (both boxes) and ok. Wiggled the hazard switch a good un. Oh yes I taped the relays with a screwdriver (the 'Headlamp Dim' one seems to stick a bit...) Now I'm stumped what to try next? :( ta,

Hi all, got these tyre valve extenders from Halfords that I have to use to connect a footpump to my wheels. The metal valve on my wheels is such that the head on a footpump will not fit so I have to use these extenders. Anyway the Halfords ones are shit. Made of plastic and the thread wears out on em. What I really would like are some nice metal ones if one of you knows where I can get em? ta,

Anyone got any smart ideas of how to lift a long steel I beam off the back of a flatbed lorry, beam weighs 300kg! Can't use a forklift on the site because of the ground / restricted access, only way I can think is to have about 8 blokes..? The Corus's delivery lorry doesn't have a hoist to offload stuff. cheers, Jay --- Forgot to add the beam is 6.5 meters long!

looked real clean :)

Yup another buzzing sound problem :( High pitched buzzing noise, if I stick my head under the rear bumper sounds like it is coming from inside the fuel tank or up and behind it. Hard to tell exactly with the exhaust noise going on. Does it sound like the fuel pump could be at fault? Forgot to add that i can hear it inside the cabin if I concentrate - when pulling away.