Apollo 32

Millers is good as is silkolene and castrol. Magnatec ok but wouldn't use it again if I was you. Its only a a semi synthetic and the sales pitch is a con. All good oils coat the engine ;) Andy

Lots of different oils around. Many will suggest different brands but its often the case of the sheep thoery. Someone will say an oil is the muts nuts because they were told it was the best. Allot depends upon the type of driving you do and heat range that the engine will work in. i.e. do you use the car for track days or just poodle around? Oils are vastly complex products nowadays with many additives. Deffo best to go for a Ester synthetic. Andy

That looks sweet Chris. What front bumper is that you have fitted? Nice big opening for the Intercooler. ;) Does all the conecting hard pipes come with kit or do you have to get it made up? Also, is it a double core or do both sides become common to each other? Cheers Andy

So i'm in the process of buy a few tuning goodies and fancied a Greddy center mount Intercooler. I assume you have to run an aftermarket front bumper, or will they fit behind a stock of 99spec one? Andy

Is nobody on here running JWT 530 sports?

Nice one. Just keep an eye on your coolant level for good keeping. ;)

Yep, I got paypall. Just PM the colour code and I'll get you a price. Andy

I'm living in Canada at the moment not sure when I'm back in the UK next, maybe be back in October for a few weeks. Like I said if you dont get any joy at Nissan UK I can pop down the road to the local Nissan dealer and pop a touch up stick in the post. ;) Andy

Hi Si I've tried many of time to get a touch up for pearl white in the UK and never been sucessfull. If you dont have any joy give us a shout and I'll pick one up here. Pearl was an option in the US so its off the shelf, I bought one last year. Postage will be diddly squat if I send it in an envelope. Andy

Hope it will be. Last time I priced it up I was alot more than that, I was in the UK though. Anyone got any latest views or experiences with different turbos? Andy

Overhaulin is a dam good show. Basically the owners dont know their cars are being modded. They are fooled into thinking their car is stolen, impounded or something like that. They cover alll aspects of the car, some great engine work, transmission brakes etc. not all that *****x stereo install crap. Worth a watch if you can get it.

So which Turbos?? The question has been asked many times before, but I see there are a few people with recent rebuilds with a variety of different turbo applications, so any of your opinions are more than welcome. So what do I want? A turbo with excellent spool response and a top end figure of 500 BHP I’ve done lots of research, especially in the US and think I’m swaying towards the JWT 530 sports. Firstly because of the characteristics of these units and secondly, I’m buying a few parts off JWT so there giving me some good discount (anyone have these fitted?) I’m going to start the rebuild as soon as my car is shipped out to me in Canada. I was thinking about fitting an RB26 but decided it was just too much work, so I’ve pushed on and started ordering parts for theVG30 as follows. Some I already have. • JWT Dual air filter • Greddy center mount intercooler • Greddy hard pipes • Apexi blow off’s • Stillen polished and honed plenum • Nismo 555 injectors • HKS Irridium plugs • JWT R4 cam set • JWT Valve springs • JWT Pistons (plated) • JWT Rods • JWT head gaskets • Block bored to 3.1 • Cryotreated block and crank • Inconel manifold • Turbo??? • JWT downpipes • Stillen race pipe (de-cat) • Mongoose cat back • Stillen flywheel • Ultra A pulley • JWT chip • Greddy oil cooler • Koyo Rad • Greddy oil catch tank I’ve managed to get some really good prices ringing around the US and managed to get all that including the 530 sports for $10K US. That’s £5.5K sterling. Sound like a lot of cash I know, but if I sold my Z and added £5k to it, what could I buy that would be that fast???? Andy

Na, she's a beaut but dont think she would appreciate her ass all over a car forum. ;)

Trusting man. No way i'm letting my missus drive mine! Being Canadian they dont understand the concept of driveing 'stick' (as they call it). Especially RHD ;)

I think most wife's think that :x:

Not mad at all, sounds like you have got your head screwed on. Good to keep a bit of a buffer in the bank, you may go for months without the need of any repairs but then you may get a big one crop up on ya. Just remeber regular oil changes/service with a decent synthetic oil. My car a was my daily driver and covered similar mileage and had little problems. There was a period when I bought an escort diesel to keep down wear on the Z. Soon got pissed of with that, driving to work in the sunshine in a shed when I had a Z at home?? F**k that. Andy

Sound like you had a bad experience but they dont break when you put your foot down, even running 400bhp on stock internals. And that my friend will keep up with most modern 80K sports cars. Not Fast???

I wouldn't go mentioning Nova's round here mate. LOL

Now theres a comment you dont hear on here very often. Think you will find these cars are very underated buddy as suggested by many of performance magazines in the past. Sure yours is running right?

Most of these cars are 14 years old now so you got to expect a bit of wear and tear at this age. You will find alot of Z's out there now that have never been maintained properly and would cost a fortune to get back to a good standard. Try and find a car that has been owned by an enthusiast (ie, on here) and put a lot of TLC into there car. Better to spent top money and get something that wont fall apart. If maintained properly these cars can be very reliable but it does come at a hefty cost. I've had my Z for years now and it's never broken down. Its only the last couple years that i've invested lots of money replacing aging parts so the car still drives like new. If you want to get into the realms of big power then you get into mega money. Andy

You dont need any software bud, built in to the car. Fairly simple process (look at TTnet for info) You will basically get a series of flashes from an LED on the ECU which relate to malfunction codes. If it s the Knock sensor. (usually is) Then its engine out to change the little basta*d i'm affraid. You can overide the sensor by linking out the control wires with a 1M resistor. This should only be done as a check though. Mind you mine been like that for months now, going to change mine when my engine comes out this winter. May not even be that, have a look first Andy

sounds like the condenser is venting ok, But dont rule it out, could be leaking inside the car aswell. I remember the first time matrix failed. I was convinced it was the condenser as the water was cool like yourself. What was happening is the hot water was leaking from the matrix into the plastic heater box surrounding. By the time the box filled up the water had cooled so the overflowing water was also cold. May sound crude but smell or taste the water( just a drip) Condser water will be clean, coolant will not The matrix is located on top of the tunnel close to the bulk head. If you can get your stereo out and the heating ducting above it you will be able to see the matrix form the centre console with the air direction flap open. Leave the car to idle and reach temp. Select the highest temp on your control, you should be able to see a leak if its shot. Have you lost any water out of the cooling system? Andy

In the passenger footwell behind the carpet is a rubber hose wich comes from the air conditioning condenser. This vents cold water to the engine bay and they can block up. (normally drips on the ground underneath the car)If this is the case then it will back fill and poor cold water in to the footwell Best thing to do is lift the carpet back and try and find the source of the water. if its the matrix has gone the plastic tray underneath will be full of water, you can just get your fingers in there if you remove the heater ducting. Andy

Sounds like the matrix. Good idea to put your heater control to cold, that way the flow of water should be closed off from the matrix. Mine has gone twice now f**king thing. Still havent changed the matrix this time so i've liked the flow and return in the engine bay to make sure no more water leaks through. ******* to change, very long fiddly job but do a searh, some good intructions on TTnet. If you got an auto then that helps as on the manwel you have to remove the clutch pedal assembly and that aint no fun. The instructions give you two methods for removal. The longest includes complete removal of the dash (so many screws, dont loose any). I would advise you to do it this way. There is a shorter way but unless you have the dash off before you wont be able to find any of the blind screws that hold the matrix in. I did write a complete guide somewhere. I'll try and find it Andy

:ttiwwop: ;)