Osty1

I think it looks nice mate, ties it all together and finishes it off nicely. Your colouring is a bit poo though. lol:clap:

Sounds good to me matey. I take it this is still happening at Snetty?? Have you still got the Porsche Gemballa wheels. I miss them soooooo much. Hope your well mate, be good to catch up.

Welcome to the forum matey.

Hi and welcome to the Zed community mate.

Hey mr Bayliner, how are you, have you still got the motor? Myself and Claire (still away, 4 months) have had a very very busy year (work) and my 300 has been of the road since the last time we saw you. I hope you are both well and hope to meet again. As I can't PM you and I lost your contact details, I've been waiting for you to show up on the forum.......I'm not a stalker. Anyway it would be great to hear from you. Take care. Tony

Mate, apart from the blue smoke, everything else can be fixed relatively easy at low cost. Were those the actual comments on your MOT, did they check the emmisions? Don't give up just yet.

Calling Bayliner, are you there....?????

Not when you've got cans the size of the channel tunnel. lol

Hi all, I had to break open my wiring loom in the engine bay to trace a short, and found that many of the wires were hardened and cracked. I was replacing a few broken connectors when I discovered that the Det sensor plug (Det sensor side) has only one wire and that the small black wire has snapped or been snipped???, leaving only a small amount of wire left on the plug. Tracing the wire down as far as I could see, I couldn't find any trace of the remains of the wire that should connect to the plug . Does this wire send a negative signal back to the ECU? Is it essential (small black wire), could it of been left like that on purpose? If it does need replacing, please please please tell me that it is'nt an engine out job.:crying: Many thanks Tony.

Come on, don't be shy, lets have a look at your master piece then.

You are sooooooooooo lucky, I love your vert, smashing example and looks like its just rolled off the production line for 2010. NICE.:yes:

:angel:Thats very nice of you mate, we can but do our best.

Get your reading glasses on..........:cool2: Problems in the charging system show up as either an undercharged or an overcharged battery. The first is easy to spot, with poor cranking or the need to jumpstart on a regular basis. The latter usually manifests itself in loss of the electrolyte and the swift degradation of the battery due to hardened plates and an inability to accept a charge. Before condemning the alternator, though, especially with an undercharged battery, take a look at a few obvious potential causes, such as slipping belts, loose or corroded battery terminals or terminals separated from the battery. You might also check that there is not a parasitic load that is always on, draining the batteries especially when your 300zx is shut down over a weekend, for instance. Another cause of poor cranking current is an internal short in a battery. If your 300zx electrical system has been worked on at some stage in its history, the size and capacity of the wiring between the alternator and the battery should be verified to ensure there is not a major voltage drop between the two electrical components. If all this checks out, undercharging is most likely a problem within the alternator. The diode pack may be defective or there may be an open circuit or grounded rotor coil. To check the current output of the alternator you can place an ammeter in series between the ground terminal on the alternator and the ground battery lead. However, since running the alternator on open circuit can destroy the diodes, you may be better to place an inductive clamp ammeter on to the battery ground cable. Such ammeters are relatively poor at measuring low currents, but since the alternator is tested with full load, the inductive ammeter is accurate enough and saves disconnecting terminals. With a voltmeter across the battery terminals and a full load for the circuit, start and run the engine to get maximum alternator output. This may be as much as 2,000 rpm. As all accessories are turned on, the battery voltage will drop. At 12.6 volts, the alternator regulator should apply full system voltage to the field and the alternator should be producing its rated current. If the ammeter shows within 10%-12% of rated power, the alternator is okay. As the alternator charges the battery and system voltage rises, the charging rate should taper off. Somewhere between 13.8 and 14.5 volts, the output should be very small. If the system voltage rises above 15 volts, the batteries will overheat and might even spew out electrolyte through vent holes. This condition indicates a faulty diode pack and a garage can replace this part of the alternator, more simply, retrofit a rebuilt/tested unit. To test for high resistance in either of the charging wires, connect the voltmeter between the output terminal of the alternator and the battery positive terminal. There should be less than 0.2-volt difference. Check the ground circuit for the same voltage drop. High resistance here will give a large voltage drop and account for undercharging. This may seem like a lot to take in, buts its not that bad...really....honestly....:w00t:

I'm with you on that, nothing is ever simple, especially electric's. As you say, deep breath and have another go.

Just another thought, where are you drawing you Amplifier's power from. Is it a seperate cable off the battery?

As above then really. Disconnect power supply from battery Remove speaker connections and Amp aux cables. Leave only the earth connectetd to the amp. Re-connect power supply.......does the amp come on??? If so, connect aux cables, then the speaker.

You have earthed the speaker through the casing of the amp (short circuit). Has the Amp got a fuse?

Ummmmm. More Photoshopping.

And you think the Zed is expensive to maintain????

You must have too much time on your hands Si........which is great for us. Well done, some good vids there. You're right about the roads in Japan, you can see why they make such great GT's.

To check the injectors, turn the engine over and with a long screwdriver, place the blade end next to the injector on the block and put your ear to the other end. You should hear a prominent rapid clicking.

Big No no mate, Police (if caught) will make you leave the car where they have pulled you over and then they'll have it removed by a tow/recovery truck and you will recieve a hefty bill + all the extra's they will include.£££££££££. The car won't be road worthy thus MOT is void along with insurance. Best and cheapest bet, get a tow home mate.

Before you go changing the lifter, have a search through this site at other threads that concern tapping. When I first purchased my car, I had the same problem. I took the car to a 'specialist'??? who recommended lifter replacements. £1000+ later, car was lovelly and quiet for about thirty miles and the tapping came back. Approaching the specialist for some kind of compensation didn't work, so I took the motor to a race specialist who identified that it was more likely to be an internal oil feed port feeding the lifter rather than the lifter itself. When I overhauled the engine, all the oil lines where cleaned out at high pressure. On rebuild, no tapping. Food for thought mate, it could be an expensive way of diagnosing your problem. As I've said mate, have a look at previous threads. Good luck.

Small amount of mechanical to do and she will be back tearing up the A11. Count me in!

Unless there is someone else on here who knows of another way? On the rear HICAS actuator situated on top, there is a system bleed valve. With this in mind, the only way I can think of to change ALL/MOST of the fluid is to flush the complete system through with new oil from the resevoir to the HICAS actuator. This would/will be expensive to do as you will need enough fluid (Dexron III) transfering through the system until the old is replaced with the new. You will also need three pairs of hands; one ensuring that the resy is continuously topped up, one to turn the steering wheel back and forth and someone under the back of the car controlling the output of oil through the bleed valve. As I said at the top of the post, someone may know of another method, but I can't think of any other way to empty the complete system and replace the old oil.