Osty1

Whats this then??? Are the Air Force taking over! Red Zeds rule.

Lets get the party started. Well done mate.

Quote. THERE IS FEW HAIR LINE CRACKS AS YOU CAN SEE FROM THE PIC BUT THERE IS NO WATER LEAKS AT ALL, STILL USEABLE. I think what he is trying to describe is that once the water gets in the cluster it dosen't leak out. lol What a pregnant goldfish!!!!:hammer:

Sorry for the type errors, using the phone. Lol.

I got fed up with the multimeter and decided to just open the loom up. Once I started it didn't take long to see the state of the complete loom above the engine. There was so many cracks in the insulation that it was only going to be a matter of time before I got a short. With all the clips open, the conduit removed and PVC tape bonner, I then started the prrocess of removing damaged wire and splicing in some new.

To be honest mate, i've had both. The spark issue was caused by a break in the thin wire from the coil pack back to the Ptu. Another more recent issue I resolved with the help from another forum member(alanz) was that I had a weak injector. I done the screwdriver trick, and was able to just make out that one injector, although clicking away, was not as strong as the others, and guess what it was? Yes, you got it. Another break in the loom, this time in the footwell near the ECU. From a number of ignition problems I have had in the past, I will always go for the loom first. But as you will know, electrical issues are whitemans magic, so could be a number of things. Keep us informed of progress. Tony.

I had the same problem mate. I ended up stripping back the loom only to find that I had a break along the thin negative return that was shorting out. I still had a spark and the other things that you had tried are the same as what I had done to investigate the problem. I decided to go for the loom first as I didn't have another PTU to slave in. Hope this helps.

First check the water level in the rad. Give the hoses a good old squeeze and look for obvious signs of loose jubilee clips/split hoses. Check the windscreen washer container for splits or where the motor/pumps are fitted. Check the radiator/water oversplill tank for the same. Let us know how you get on.

Problem solved.:thumbup1: The wiring gets such a hammering from the engine heat and gets very brittle.

The thing is, this is all part of the 2 part race (driver/constructor). Yes it's crap for us sitting at home and I agree with the comments, but for Ferrari it makes sense. Yes the constructors points would be the same, but, if Alonso manages to challenge for the world title and succeeds, Ferrari are back in the spotlight as winners. I can see why they done it, just fooks me off that it was Alonso.

As previously stated, swap a known working coil pack with one of those that isn't firing. If the problem transfers to the other cylinder that was previously working, you have a dead coil pack. If on the other hand the original cylinder still fails to fire, this would point to an electrical fault. Have you an Ohm meter available?

Very nice matey. Out of interest, what do you fly?

Remove the power to the large pump. Leave a small amount of pipe on the pump and insert two bolts into the remaining lengths of the pipe and secure with jubilee clips until someone can advice you of a better way.

Do you know what???????? It makes me SICK!

Right up my street mate, sounds good. Do you know if you can make it to Snetty or is too early (work) to know?

Very nice matey.

Hope so mate, she's late getting on the road this year as you well know.

:innocent::shifty:I take it to a race engineer. The garage is called Picalino's and its up near Marham. He's the only mechanic around here that I trust.

:rockon:Mate, that is one lovely looking motor, well done. Can't wait for more pictures.

Keep all your fingers crossed for me, MOT next Monday. It would be great if the other regions could make it. Maybe see there Devon.

:gunsmilie:Hello and welcome mate.

You should bring it around when myself and Alanz get together, we might be able to help out.

Its as Black Zed says. It can be one of the biggest problems when refininshing a car. The Spray leaving the gun will generate a different electrical charge to that of the car. This small amount of electrical/static difference is enough to attract the particles in the paint and cause them to react in a certain way when coming in contact with different materials. Although the car would already be primed, it will not totally insulate the car. Whereas plastics/fibreglass are totally non-conductive.

uuck me, that is brilliant. Have just looked to purchase one and quickly realised I could by a 1/1 scale for the same price. Nice one mate. Lets have a little write up on your progress as you put it together.

I thought I would take some time out from fixing the Z and write up a 'How to' or rather, how I retrimed my cockpit panels and the materials I used. Firstly I attempted the panels in a quality leather, for me this was a BIG NO NO, it looked like I had wrapped the panels up in Bruce Forsyths skin, there were creases every where but the places they were meant to be. Lucky for me I was given the material. I then decided on a visit to a local Fent shop, and after pushing past the OAP's with their latest knitting paterns, I made it to the counter. Lucky for me there was a Gent there who had built his own kit car and gave me some great advice...........'If you haven't the correct tools for manipulating the leather into the correct shape, don't use it, use a pvc based leatherette'. He then pointed out the rows of 'pretend leather' of which I was surprised at the variety. After choosing, paying (£22) and returning home, the fun then begun. I tackled the easy panels first to test the methods advised by the man in the fent shop and they worked! So, what is the trick to getting a good result..? Answer....Cheap as chips Super glue, not the good stuff (bostik) but rather, as in my case, Pound Land 15 tubes for, you've guessed it, a Pound. Now I am armed with a fiver's worth of Super glue, some PVC leatherette and to finish my material collection off, some tubes of Evo Stik Leather Adhesive 381506. I removed the old material from the panels and key'd up the surface and at the same time removed the old glue, by using one of those wire brushes that fits into a drill. Once cleaned up, I placed the cloth over the panels, cut roughy to the size, and dribbled the super glue onto and into the place I wanted to start, for example; on the rear cards I put a bead of glue from one end to the other where the black part met the old cloth. Starting at one end I used a feeler gauge to prod the material into the gap. Once the glue set and using a scalpel, I removed the excess material (It doesn't look that pretty at this point but don't worry). I then spread thinly the leather glue over the remaining panel. The reason you use the cheap super glue is that it doesn't instantly bond on contact, allowing for repositioning but will hold firm after a few seconds. I then used a heat gun to manipulate and stretch the material, constantly wiping over it until the glue done its job. On the rear panels where the material wants to natrually lift away from the panel, mix in some of that superglue. The heat gun and super glue will allow you to fully manipulate the material (See my stereo blanking panel). Top tip from Mr Fent man. To cover up your awful slashing away of the excess material, use PVC coated electrical wire, glued in place with... you guessed it...Pound Land super glue. This acts as a finishing bead. So to sum it up (I hear you saying thank god). You will need a heat gun (be careful here, you don't want your interior looking like a scene from Michael Jacksons autopsy) Loads of cheap Super glue Leather glue Feeler Gauge (as it's nice and blunt) and if you don't smoke............you will! Clean hands and patience. Well worth it though.:wink: