Dutchy

Hello all Just ordered some agx shocks, was wondering about fitment?? is it a reasonable job to do yourself??? or have i gotta pay out the £200 the garage want to fit them??? I am gonna combine these with eibach springs, but i getting abit concerned about clearance, because i have 245s on the front the clearance from the top of the 3rd link where the upper camber arm mount from the inner edge of the tyre is minimal, i'm worried that with the eibach springs on the lowering will be so much as to make the tyre and the link touch, which would be a bummer. although the oem shocks are knackered and think this has something to with it??? or is it the fact that the front wheels are just to wide for the arch etc... Any advice will be greatly appreciated Thanks in advance

they are the ones that i have, they're excellent

how much do you want for them like??? are they in good nick, i.e. no cracking etc....

Hello chaps Anyone know where i can get a set of these from at a reasonable price Cheers all

ive got exactly the same problem with mine, looked to get one from courtesy the price wasnt to bad, not sure if i wanna weld it or not, if i do, what would you think is best, to weld the crack over then plate the ender side for some extra strength

race technology 19" 245s all round ( came with car) problem is the clearance on the front, between the inner edge of the tyres and the mounts for the upper camber arms, think my shocks n springs on the front are shot as when cornering right the arms sometimes touched the bloody tyre, perhaps spacers will remedy this, or are they just to fat for the front

has anyone got any pics of front upper camber arms fitted to there zed, apart from the one one here, i put mine in yesterday but ot convinced ther are in the right way round i.e. do you have to turn one end one way and the other end the other, i hav done this because other wise i couldnt get the bolt holes to line up without putting excessive pressure on the bearings, Cheers Dutchy

maybe your liner is wearing, was the liner examined when the pistons went in, might be abit of ring chatter, is it at high or low rpm

oil could get contaminated in a number of ways but a common one is combustion gases, caused by blow by, but fear not. change the oil and filter and see how you get on. if you wanna check the viscosity, get a flow stick. 5ml of new 5ml of old oil make sure the temps of the oil are both ambient, tilt up the stick and see how the old oil flows in comparison to the new stuff

If youve got petrol in the oil then it will definitely be thinner, as the petrol has an adverse effect on the viscosity, when the viscosity gets to low the the oil literally runs like water and will loose alot of its thermal and lubrication properties, Get some engine flush and make sure all the contaminated oil is gone, otherwise as soon as the new stuff goes in, it will also be contaminated. Everyone has a different oppinion on oil grade, but i lean towards a 10w/50. That particular grade is thin enough for good flow rates when engine is cold, this is when alot of wear can occur. it is fully sinthetic and has excellent thermal efficiency so it will not break down under high temp, this oil is also hich in despersents/detergents anti corrosion properties etc, so it will break down crap in the engine, so be sure to have a good flush through first All the best

Hello all Can someone just clarify for me which is the correct way the upper camber arms go in,??? seen the pick on the faq, is it the longer parts of the bearing part faces to the rear and the longer part of the actual shaft faces towards the arch and not the wheel Thanks

as for your probs starting, thats abit of a round the houses job, again start easy and then work up, or raid your piggy bank and get it in the garage for someone to have a proper look at it, sometimes its better to pay out than drive yourself mad with it.

might be worht you having the pcv valves out first, for either a clean or a replacement, but this may not help at all, but it might. I'd be inclined to do that first before going straight in for the tubs. When i had the white smoke at idle i changed the pcvs and lucky me seems to have done the trick, try the easy less expensive remedies first if i were you, is the car due a good service??? could be something minor. like i said i would do the easy bits first before fearing the worst. All the best Dutchy

Further to my previous thread on the bloody clicking problem i WAS having, cant remember who recommended this but seem to have done the business. Went to halfords ( cheapskate me) got a bottle of wynns hydraulic valve cleaner treatment, whacked half the bottle in the enhine oil, drove it round abit let it settle drove abit more, and hey presto this morning stared her up and no more clicking not even a little, thought it was a fluke so have started a driven on three seperate occasions today and still clear of the click. £6 absolute bargain, i still plan to change the oil nxt week sometime but this seem to of done the trick, thanks whoever it was.I guess if any one else has this problem try it out it seems to of definitely worked fo me

not to sure about that aem one, ive had a few mixed responses to that, some say its ok but a couple of tuners i have spoken to say its worth about " £9.50 " lol. So still undecided, dont really wanna go down the piggy back route. I'll have a look into this emerald one ( not heard of it to be honest) I know that haltech do them and they are supposed to be good but someone will probably say otherwise, also there is a perfect power xms or a eurotronic one i think, i suppose i'll have to do abit more looking into it before i purchase anything, but suggestions are most welcome.

if the head gasket had gone chances are youd be getting emulsification, and over heating problems as well as loosing alot of coolant, althoug can be caused by condensation. If your not loosing water then i doubt that it is head gasket block or liner probs, more likely tub seals are failing,as already said.

if you get jacket water spraying out the plug hole your in the deep sh*t, I hope for you it aint that

Hello all, Does anyone have one of these fitted to their z, or no even if they are available for the zed

righto, i'll change the oil 2moro see if that stops the noise

Hello All, Seems like its one thing after the other at the minute, now I have a dreaded ticking sound coming from the engine upon start up, once the cars had a run and warmed right up it seems to clear. Obviously the ticking increases in rate with the revs of the engine. Is this an injector problem or something else. The gauge reading on the oil pressure reads about 4ish upon sart up but falls away after some driving time, But it is only the stock dash gauge and is well erratic sometimes it tells me i have nothing at all, especially after driving on motor way and then hitting a traffic jam it falls right off to almost zero!!!! I'm hoping its the gauge thats a t fault, as apart from the bloody tickiing the car seems fine.

so the larger sized piston will give a slightly higher compression ratio???

on other thing, on smithy,s web page the forged pistons come in two sizes?? why exactly is this???

What sort of bhp will the 555cc max out on?? i guess i would need to ugrade pretty much everything in the engine to allow for running greater bhp safely.Best start saving some more pennies

pistons and con rods, whatabout the crank/cam shafts, is it best to do the whole lot.

Hello chaps What do you think is the best size injector upgrade for the zed tt. 555cc or something a little higher????