SMW1

Si, It's probably your sent items that are clogging up you PM box.

Not bad at all mate. Looks very tidy, I think I'll give that a shot. Thanks mate.

http://www.ultimatejapcars..co.uk http://www.twinturbo.net http://www.z32.co.uk

ah man, that' snot good this close to christmas. I hope there is not too much damage. Wishing your Z a speedy recovery.

Yeah Cerina's (XCK1) is an NA, no muffle from the turbo's, so it's a bit more raspy :D.

Sorry I probably wasn't very clear there. O2 sensor fault Cold no hesitation between 2k - 3k rpm warm hesitation between 2k - 3krpm MAS Sudden lost of power on hard acceleration Usually when the ground is wet or it has been raining. more frequent whenthe car is cold.

We'll just have to exclude him from the credits of out film ;). James I know you don't like critism but I do have to say, I know you couldn't afford all 4 wheels at once but I really do think you should have got the rear's first and then when your bonus comes in Feb then get the fronts. The Z can get away with having bigger wheels at the rear but at the front it just looks a little strange, sorry mate I know it's hard to take in and all that but I'mn sure you'll see the light :(.

And there's me thinking I wasn't that old. My two favorite games were: Pole position Karate Champ (with the two joysticks)

May be worth checking the CAS as this controlls the injectors.

Yep 2nd from the left IIRC. When you turn the ignition on but don't start the engine can you hear the fuel pump in the boot wine for a second or two ?

the O2 sensors are bypassed until the coolant temperature reached 70 degrees, then the ECU starts using them. So if the hesitation doesn't happen when it's cold then it the O2 sensors (cost about £100 to replace and takes about an hour with the right tools or 5 days with the wrong ones ;) Quickest I've done both is about 24 minutes :eek: ). The cough and power down will usually happen on hard acceleration, when the induction draws the most air in.

Throttle Position Sensor. Not sure what Stuart Means by reset. but I would check it is between .40 and .44 volts. May want to reset the ECU after you have cleaned all the contacts as well and see how it goes.

Hi Lofty, how you doing mate. Not seen you on MSN much recently, you been busy ?

leave the car for a few hours, get someone to crank it over while you pinch the fuel line in fron tof the fuel filter with you thumb and finger. Does the pressure build up when the ignition is turned on and the engine is cranked ?. If not then it's the fuel pump.

Glad you got it sorted mate Well if the ptu failed on a cylinder you will be getting unburnt fuel coming out of your zorsts. Once the ptu is back up and this should stop the smell. however if you can still smell it in the engine bay then tighen up the fuel lines (just follow them from the fuel filter to find all the clamps). The flat spot may be O2 sensor related. Do you get a slight jumpiness when you are holding the car between 2k - 3k rpm ?. If so it's the O2 sensors mate. Rain into the MAS will cause the car to suddenly loose power and run like kak for another few seconds before the water is evaporated, the car will then run fine again.

22psi apparently :confused:

whooooo Hooooooooooo. Nice one :dance:

me too and Cerina :D

You want more :rofl: ;)

With these cars it's usually an electrical fault. It's not like vavles to go on their own, they usually all pretty much go together, pistons on the other hand :eek:....... Good luck, if you get stuck tomorrow during the day drop me a mail on stuart.waterman@ants.co.uk, and I'll get back to you straight away (my work address, I try and do as little work as possible until they pay me more LOL).

Just have to say that if the zorst smell of fuel that it's likely that you either have a spark or vavle problem on that cylinder.

Try the following easy steps and you will get to the problem. Spark plugs/ coil packs/ PTU/ ECU - You can test this with the engine running so you don't need a buddy to help. Check for spark on Cylinder 3 (that's the middle one on the left). To do this unbolt the coil pack but leave the plug in place (otherwise you get fuel shotting out all over the place). Put a good plug (maybe a cheap one from halfords £2, but make sure the thread is the same) into the coil pack and check for a spark. If you get a spark try it again using the plug in the cylinder. If you get a spark it's not a plug or PTU related problem - go to injectors section below. If you get no spark with the new plug, then swap the coil packs and try again. Spark ? Yes = coilpack problem. No = connector/ ptu/ ecu problem. Try swapping the PTU for a know working PTU, if it works then it's the PTU, if it doesn't work then it's the wiring or ECU. Best to get get this checked by an auto electrician. oir you could try rewiring the coilpack connector for a new one. Injectors / CAS /ECU Ok so we have a spark, then it may be the injector, easy to check this one. mark the position of the crank angle sensor and unbolt it (three bolts 12mm), with the CAS still connected the the harness turn the ignition on but do not start the engine. you should hear the fuel pump noise as normal, slowly turn the cog on the back of the CAS clockwise, you should hear an injector click followed by a swoosh of fuel then the fuel pump fire up, keep turning slowy until you hear each injector fire, listen over the engine for this where the injectors are connected. Can't hear the number 3 injector fire ? if you can't then it's a CAS/ connector / wire /ECU or connector problem. Or it could jsut be a blocked injector, try some injector cleaner in your take for two tanks worth and see if that solves the problem. What's next ? If you do get a spark and you can hear the injector then you only have one thing left to check !!!!. You have fuel , you have spark you obviously have the air, but do you have the compression ?. Do a compression check on all your cylinders to get an average and see if your cylinder is low in compression. if it is then you need to do a cylinder leakage test to find out what the problem is. If the compression is fine, the fuel is fine and the spark is fine, you obviously missed something because it has to be one of these three "simple" :eek: things :D Hope this help, no really I do because my fingers are bleeding now :(

Ok, If we are gonna start being sillly then we may as well just go crazy on it :D

pictures probably don't do true justice to the hard work that you put into that, but for a cold day the shine on that bonnet in the last pic, shows that you did a great job. Nice one mate,very clean in deed, you have mastered the art of detailing :D. Nice seat as well BTW ;).

Yep everything Adam has mentioned and some Intercoolers as well. Stillen or Greddy I would suggest. Also maybe a Koyo rad and uprated oil cooler. Then later down the line, all you need are some bigger turbo's and you are looking at 450+ BHP.