Giant slayer

it is in a bad way so i would definitely say sub 4 figure sum. Looks like it was pulled out of Poole Harbour! would certainly be a challenge but i satisfying challenge to restore it to its former glory! Here is the place for those who wanted the number. http://www.trents.co.uk/company/locations/poole.html Yes Hellraiser it is the place opposite halfords. Do you know any other breakers in our area because chuckie trents havent had a zed in for months now! Would be interested to keep in touch with the project if any one does decide to give this one a bash.

Not sure if this is the right place to post this but i will stick in the place that get most read....... was at my local scrappie today to see if they had any zeds in (they didnt) and saw a zed convertible in the car park. I asked the fella at the desk if he knew anything about it and he said it was a recovered stolen and they were just waiting to get the replacement key through for it and check if it was running then it was going to auction. from looking at it myself it is left hand drive, import of some kind, late model with drivers air bag, convertible, white, auto (i think). It was in a pretty bad way to say the least, deffinite respray and repair the soft top for starters, so cant see it going for a lot at the auctions. Would be an ideal project for someone who wants to fix up a softop (for next summer, anyway). I would think about taking the project on myself if i had the room. I expect if you would phone up the breakers and make them an offer they would be more them happy to save them the trouble of an auction. It is Trents on ringwood road in Poole. Im sure you can find the number on the web. They are not open sundays.

that is good enough recommendation for me mate! just phoned them up and were very helpful of always and i should have them in time for the weekend! Glad to see you have got another zed mate. I am just about finished with those standard alloys i bought from you if you want them back for some track use. Will soon have my 18" mille miglia's back from the fixers and my car will finally be restored to its former glory!

what about these? http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_51_62&products_id=303 zed centre wouldnt sell rubbish 2nd rate pads would they. Half the price of hawk pads, mintex........ im confused???

yeah that is a help for my question 1. Thanks to you Vijay and aaronjb who gave you the help on this thread. just need to get my head round the EGR stuff a bit more.

yes i know i am anoying to ask another question about the AIVs but done a search and there is so much on them and all the posts i have looked at dont answer my question...... Looking at this guide http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/137858.html at the begining he talks about disconnecting the shared vacuum lines the AIV has with EGR and stock boost gauge. I have 2 questions. 1. I would like to keep the stock boost gauge functioning. He says about connecting the vacuum line straight to the balance bar after the AIV solenoid is chucked out. He looses me a bit here. Is there a spare nozzle on the balance bar to attach this line, and will the line stretch comfortably (good oxymoron) from where it used to go to the balance bar. 2. The guide tiptoes around keeping the EGR vacuum stuff in use. From what i have read the EGR is just as use(ful/less) as the AIV and will be more vacuum lines that can leak but is more tricky to remove than the AIV. I was wondering what you would do if you wanted to strip as much of the vacuum stuff away from the EGR when you are removing the AIVs but without having to remove the unit itself. I guess the same applies from the Carbon Canister but cant see it refered to in the guide so i guess it is stand alone so i wont fiddle with it this time. cheers

how do you means looms? do i just need to run a couple of extra wires between the mirrors and switch (and therefore have to run the wires through the door and the whole of the car to get to the switch which will be PITA) and do some soldering to connect up the wires if the plugs dont match. Or do i need to buy the loom from a J-spec car too, and if so which section? Bit confused about the operation now so putting it in simple terms how many spanners would the job get in a Haynes manual?!

has anyone replaced their wing mirrors on their Uk zed with j-spec folding mirrors and make them fold? Do you need anything else apart from the actual mirrors? Obviously you need the j-spec mirror control to have the switch to make them fold but anything else? On my prelude the j-specs had a relay box between the mirror control and the mirrors to make them fold. Any ideas?

anyone got any views on these pads? They are cheapest pads availble on Motorsportworld but that is normally a bad thing. Cant find anything about them through the search.

Andy, do you have a special tool or method to get the chip out without bending the legs? i have been too scared to remove mine since i have seen how fragile they are.

never had a conzult check so that would be great (...or potentially very bad!!!). I will give you a ring this weekend to sort out picking up the mats. Any particulary good or bad times for you?

our cars have variable valve timing on the exhaust cam dont they? I dont suppose it makes alot of difference when you throw turbos into the equation but do the solenoids often fail on these systems and if so would there be a noticable performance drop off. He can the VVT be checked to see if it is working properly?

i have had a similar problem but maybe not the same. went away for a week and when i came back to start the car it was turning over but not catching spent a while checking all the PTU, MAF connectors etc but decided it could be flooded so wiped out the fuel pump fuse turned it over a couple of times to dry the plugs then pushed a screw driver down the hole in the cam cover to hold open the throttle and left it for a few hours to dry out. when i went back and put the fuel pump fuse back in i could eventually start it. dont know what caused the initial problem but have seen some threads where peoples ECU's have gone funny and the injectors kept firing. Replaced my ECU now and problem has not reaccured.

cool. Having never had them i have no idea but what are the OEM pads like on Z's?

So is it not worth bleeding the ABS too? If it is where is the Front/Rear side air bleeder on ABS actuator?

It seems 200sx filters deffinetly have the valve in their filters. Surely the valve would still be beneficial on cold starts even if it wasnt mounted on an angle???

hhhmmmmm...... interesting. Think Hawks still sound good for me. Best place to buy??? What about the sequence to bleed brake fluid through calipers and which brake fluid to use?

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=81345&highlight=oil+filter+valve+return found this old thread where Old Zed says some aftermarket oil filters dont have a non-return valves. Do blueprint filters have this valve does anyone know? What brand of filters do have the NRV and how much do they cost?

Thanks for the input guys. It is StopTech (who i think are a part of Brembo) discs and pads that i have on there at the moment and i am pretty happy with them but the front pads have worn to the indicators after about 8-9k miles. Is that a decent lifetime? that havent been thrashed or tracked??? The guy who had the car before me bought the stoptechs from the USA. Can they be bought for a reasonable price in the UK? If i cant find cheap Stoptechs in the UK. I think i will end up going for the Hawks. Is HPS the type to go for? where is the cheapest place to buy them? Finally, I think i will do a brake fluid change at the same time as replacing the pads. Is superdot 4 the stuff to use? and is there a sequence in which to bleed each caliper?

what pads do most people recommend to go on the fronts of a zed? had EBC redstuffs on previous cars and been pretty happy with them. the discs are grooved aftermarket. Dont want to spend the earth but want something that is reliable and safe for non-track use.

yeah that was me. Finally spotted by someone!!!! What were you doing in this neck of the woods? I live on the next road down pretty much.

i have heard only bad things about engine flushes when i have owned other cars. People have advised me that it is better to buy some cheap synth oil of the same weight and run that in the engine for 500 miles or so then dump that out with the old filter and fill with good oil and new filter. I suppose that is similar to running with diesel in the engine but surely you will have diesel residue in the engine still rather than oil of the same weight albiet old and dirty stuff. Are you guys talking about the engine flushes you find in Halfords like Wynns and Millers? http://www.netparts.co.uk/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=83 any particular preferences or bad experineces with any of these products? is it possible/advisable to drive with this stuff in the engine for a very short period to try and get the oil cooler actuator to open up, as MarkZX says, to flush through that too?

By Goals. I was in red UK zed. Just about managed to flash you back in time. Reminded me how good zeds look when in motion coming towards you!

just to add 2p's worth to what the opie guys are saying. I am an engineer in the oil industry and what i understand by hydrocracking or hydrotreating is that, as most people know, the oil that comes out of the ground is made up of hydrocarbon chains of varying length. By boiling this mixture and condensing the vapours at certain temperatures can give you different grades or cuts of oil which have different characteristics and properties such as density and viscosity to do with the average weight of the molecules. However, in these cuts there are still hydrocarbon chains of varying lengths and shapes (such as circular aromatics like benzene) and chemistry that even out to the average weight. This mixture can sometimes not act as required due to the mixture of molecules being very varied and behaving unpredictably. Hydrotreating involves heating specific cuts to high temperatures and pushing it through a reactor called a FCC (fluidized catalytic cracker) containing fine catalyst particles and blast Hydrogen molecules at it. The heat and presence of the catalyst and hydrogen breaks longer chains into smaller chains as required for the final product. Hydroforming works in a similar way in a different type of reactor to make short chains longer by pushing chains together. Thus the eventual blended product may have the same average weight as the distilled product but have a much narrower distribution of particles making up that weight and with more known about the chemistry of particles it contains. This will normally lead to the hydrotreated product behaving much more reliably than the distilled product. Masters of Chemical Engineering Imperial College London

think he was just saying that it is not to do with the battery????