Giant slayer

ok its still not working. i have disconnected all the plugs on the MAF, CAS and PTU (series 2) and cleaned them. PTU plugs seemed pretty new and clean and was MAF. CAS connector was a bit dirty but cleaned and removed unit and there were clicks on rotation (is this sparks from plugs or injectors firing? also how can i be sure that the CAS is now lined up properly will i need to get the timing done?). Disconnected line out of fuel filter and seems to be fuel there. can here fuel pump priming. air filter removed so that not causing blockage. just about to go down to Halfords to get spark plug puller and check if they are wet and producing spark. If wet how do i dry + clean properly? If there is spark and fuel that rules out dodgy immobiliser. WHAT THE HELL ELSE COULD BE WRONG!!!!!! Really need help on this. Cheers in advance.

someone told me it could be something about my plugs being wet (with petrol i assume) and i need to remove them, clean them, check the gaps and warm them up(???) has anyone heard of this procedure and could give me further info of exactly to do it?

not with the car at the moment as had to take the darn tube into work. There is fuel in it. Tried to start it off another cars battery so power supply is fine. Pretty sure it is not the alarm - imobiliser is off and acts to imobilise the car one key turn before turning over so should be fine. what else could it be?

I was away last week so my would have been sitting in the presumed wet of london for the past 7 days and now will not start. it turns over but will not ignite. i can hear a knocking sound from the rear off side which i guess is the fuel pump so i guess that is fine. strangly when i first went to start it it seemed to ignite once then immediately die but since then no ignition at all. It was behaving a bit strangly before i went away in all the wet and snow by revs dropping low during idle like it was about to stall. It is a daily drive car and leaving it standing for a week seems to do it no good. Another strange thing is that my cobra alarm keeps getting set off as well. the indication is that it is set off by the ultrasonic sensors but even when i set the alarm with ultrasonic excluded it still goes off with the same indication. It is like it resets itself and then the alarm triggers. What is my problem? is it the electrics or fuel or air intake issues? what can i do to discover and cure my problem?

can i have your spare jap dash if you decide to do what is suggested above. PM me

any ideas for this?

I want to fit a DAB aerial antenna to the exterior of the car and dont know where to put it. I need to keep the existing aerial for FM so i suppose the obvious point is in place of the rear washer jet but i will be sorry to loose that. Is there anywhere around the t-tops that could be used. I would rather be making holes in plastic bits that can be replaced than drilling into the car body. Will also have to be able to string the cable from the aerail to the head unit. Any ideas?

Let me know how you get on with the wiper controls bulb if you redo it. What do you mean when you say the contact is touch only?

Daves Zed. it is a twist in one, will try and get a picture of it when i can. On what page of the UK online service manual does it show the bulb and where can i find this manual? Also while we are on the subject i found another bulb in the wiper controls part of the cluster. It has a rectangular base rather than circular like the twist out ones and is a bu99er to get out which is why i cant tell you what size it looks like. Has anyone had any luck changing this one as i think it looks a bit odd that this is the only part of either cluster that isnt lit up??

i did mean window when i said mirror. I will try and take some pictures to show you when i can. Could it be a UK only thing?

it is on my UK 1990 TT. There is one bulb (501?) that only lights up the up arrow on the drivers side drivers window switch. It seems a bit weird that it doesnt illuminate anything else but there is deffinetly a bulb there.

I have got a spa gauge that reads oil pressure and coolant temp. It sometimes drops out showing negative oil pressures and was told by the previous owner that it might be a dodgy contact where the sender is contected on a sandwhich plate with the filter, so when i did my oil change recently i pushed it around a bit in the event i might get lucky and make a better contact. I dont think it made much difference but a couple of days later the gauge went completely dead with no readings or any sign of power. There is a small leak in my windscreen that lets a bit of water near my pods when it rains hard and it had been around that time. What has caused the failure and how can it be remedied? Is there a fuse somewhere for these gauges that has gone for either of the above reasons?

http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=803631&posted=1#post803631 Not sure if people regularly look at posts here so check the link out above.

i want to get a HID kit but a little short on cash at the moment. are there any cheaper alternatives to HID that will make zed headlights or front sidelights on a UK TT brighter as the standard main beam lights are just plain dangerous. I mean stuff like brights bulbs and things that would make a difference but not hurt my wallet

all fixed now! There was a screw caught in the door side tracks. It is a 14mm spanner and i did have a bit of trouble getting to the rear bolts but that was mainly down to the bolts having plastic covers over them which took me a while to figure out!

i am really hoping it wont come to a new seat particulary because mine is leather in very good condition. can anyone confirm whether it is a 14mm bolt that attaches the the seat to the floor as i dont have my socket set with me so am going to buy and individual spanner to do it.

Last night was digging around the side of the drivers seat to find a bonanza of coins (my zed eating my money in more than just petrol). I wound the seat right back to aid my rumaging and now it doesnt go forward again. It can move back and forward about 1 cm at best. I have seen the below thread about coins on the track and have done my best to clear anything off and also used a vacuum to suck anything off it. Is it possible i have pushed the seat too far back and it is off its runners or will it most likely be something still on the track? On the thread below it mentions about 4 bolts to remove the seat. I can give this a go to further check for coins because there is not much rumaging room as it is but where and what size are the bolts mentioned and is it difficult to refit it and line it up etc. Help much appreciated because I cant reach the bottom of the clutch pedal at the moment!!! http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=83818&highlight=seat+coin

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-300zx-Power-Enterprise-Mag-II-Oil-Filter_W0QQitemZ120059073130QQihZ002QQcategoryZ10402QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem any views on this particular one?

does anyone have a guide to the std zed colours for uk models? done a search but found nothing. Or alternatively can anyone tell me whether the was more than one red shade used for any zed Uk or Jap or should every red zed be exactly the same colour (allowing for fade in sun of course)

hmmmmm. interesting anyone else had positive or negative experiences of the blueprint oil filter over the nissan one?

what brand of oil filter should i be using when changing my oil. is nissan part the way to go or is there an aftermarket company like HAMP that produce better quality ones or 3rd parties like blueprint that produce same quality as nissan filters but at a quarter of the price?

speed sensor changed and no joy and uk so not kph convertor. what is the procedure of resoldering dry joints?

After my car was stood still for a few weeks the speedo has decided to stop working. it sits a 0 then will suddenly flick to 120mph when going about 70mph. it will then "drop" all the way round to 180 when slowing or stopping. It will fire back into live after you exceed about 50mph and go to the 140mph point and will decrease the faster you go and increase (eventually back to 180mph when stopped) the slower you go. If you exceed something like 80-90mph (on private roads) it will fire back into life and show the correct speed and increase and decrease normally. If going at slow speed or stop-start of after turning off and turning on again the needle will go back to being stuck at 0 again and the whole process is repeated though again. The warning sign it is about to do this is when the needle wobbles about . this is normally when going 40-50mph. I have had the speed sensor changed and is not the problem so it is the clock. how can i fix this without changing the clock? It is a UK TT manual.

an additional switch or will wiring them to a import control with switch do the job?

Do you guys recommend using this type of fuel additive injector cleaner on zeds? Iv used it on previous cars every 6 months or so and never had any problems but didnt know if it would be suitable for a zed.