Giant slayer

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=94408 could be the same as this guy i saw???

parked next to town hall and gone by 7.30 this morning. nice a clean with non-standard font on the number plates.

My leathers are in really good quality with no cracks or tears and i want to keep them that way. What is the best way to treat the leather to keep is healthy, soft and comfortable?

i got a blueprint one from a motor factors for under £5. seen people on here say they are better than nissan one but cant see how you can tell that. Anyway the blueprint one i have used has been fine so no complaints there.

i have a cobra 7777. it is ok but a few little things annoy me like it doesnt make a sound when locking or unlocking (apart from the noise from the central locking) so you have to always check the doors which make the remote locking a bit obselete. Actual security of it seems spot on. Seemed a little overly senstive but think i have turned that down now and went a bit mad when it got water in it but that is fair enough. Not sure how well it works with turbo timer but will soon find out as have one on the way! I have had toad alarms before i really like them. they have loads of features unlike the cobra but dunno how it rates against it for actually keeping the car secure.

i thought this would be the way people would be advise me and have always wanted to go on a track day but was put off by the cost. do you know howe much the 3 day course cost even though it was a present? I would like to do an instructive course like this in a resonably powered car but all i see for track days is farting about in a ferrarri for 3 laps for £xxx. Aside for tuition, are there any simple techniques i can research and teach myself?

as much as i love driving my zed i am aware that i my not be driving the way it [by god] was designed to be driven. Can anyone recomend any basic driving techniques such as heel-toeing, bliping the throttle on downshifts, apex cornering, methods of avoiding/making the most of oversteer,braking-cornering-accelerating techniques, max torque rev range and revs to change through the gears, that will help me get the most out of my zed driving experience for both track and road.

the zen garage arent too far from you in putney if you can get a slot there. I work just down the road from you in Sudbury so will be interested if you find anywhere else good in the area because all the normal garages in this area seem like rip off merchants.

cheers but no way the jap clocks cost me £37 and the resistor cost me 10p. That is a bargain in my book. I had done the blue led conversion too so dont want to change it about. Im sure it just needs a fiddle to get it right

My UK speedo on my UK TT stopped working properly. I got replacement jap dials yesterday and removed the speedo only (not the boost gauge part) fitted a blue 20,000 ohm resistor to the R10 slot. The resistor that was in there before was a 33,000 ohm. Wacked on my UK dial face and fitted the modified Jap clock back into the UK cluster. I put a small cut in the dial face so I wouldn’t have to remove and damage the needle. The Jap dial face went upto 180kph, not sure what the UK shows but they all show the same don’t they? Anyway, the speedo isn’t showing the right speed, it seems to be about a factor of 2 out, i.e. showing 20mph when going 40mph, or it could be an offset of about 20mph, i.e. shows 0mph up to 20mph then 10mph shown as 30mph, 20 as 40, 40 as 60 etc. the movement of the clock seems fine Have I installed the right value resistor? Do I need to mess about with the pots to get it to show the right speed? I remember seeing a photo showing where you can drill holes in the casing so you can adjust the pots while it is all still assembled. Where can I find that? The other problem I have had is that now all of a sudden the boost gauge in the cluster has stopped working. Remember I didn’t swap that out or touch it in anyway so I guess I haven’t plugged something back in properly when putting it back together. Where does the boost gauge get its signal from?

Got the clocks for whitelightning. Better late than never. sounds like you have sorted you starting problem now. It sounded like you had a similar problem as me which was either caused by or extended by a flooded engine. The best way to clear a flooded engine is to open the throttle by shoving a screwdriver down the whole on the cam cover to hold the cables. Take out the fuel pumps fuse and cranks it a few times to dry the plugs and empty the injectors and fuel feeds. Leave it for a few hours with the throttle open to dry out. If you manage to get it to fire it will probably initial kick out a loud of smoke and sound really rough but keep the revs high or it will stall and you will have to start the process over again. take it for a little drive and it will sort itself out.

cool. what type are they that i could find on one of the website that sell them. 382, 383 and 581 keep coming up when i search for indicator bulbs.

are the front and rear indicator bulbs the same on a UK? what is the code for them?

thats right mate. that seemed to fire him into action after i havent heard from him for 3 weeks after he cashed my cheque. That seemed to fire him into action saying he would send them "tomorrow" but they are yet to have appeared. I am tempted to say i wouldnt help this guy if he was on fire and i had a bucket of water but i suppose that is a bit harsh. I dont want to make enemies and have offered to advise him on his problem and all i want in return is to put the clocks i bought from him a long time ago in the post!

I wouldnt lend this fella anything guys. I bought a set of clocks off him from ebay over 2 months ago and i still havent recieved them! Can you please reply to my emails to tell me if you have sent me the clocks yet and i will then remove this post!!!!

I am currently in the process of installing clear rear indicator lenses but i am wondering what bulb to get for them. I have read on here about the "fried-egg" effect when using orange bulbs and using chromed silvertec bulbs instead but these posts all seem to be speaking about the side repeaters not the rears. Can you get away with orange bulbs in the rears because the diffuser means you cant see the orange bulb through it or can you also get silvertec bulbs for the rears? if so from where? I will also be de-oranging the other indicators. The side repeaters i will replace with clear repeaters and silvertec bulb. Where is the best place to get that set? An i want to remove the orange lense from the front indicators. I remember seeing that you can somehow break the orange part of the lense and remove the pieces but i cannot find the write up on how to do this now. Anyone know where it is? Does it also apply to UK models as the indicator is different? Finally, where can i find silvertec bulbs for these lights or can i get away with orange bulbs?

Cool it mate, just dont want to be scammed. I have emailed your msn email with my address to send the clocks to. Reply to that so i know you have got it and send the clocks of and i will post again on this thread to say that everything is cool. I had the exact problem as you are having with your car so can help you out but need to know you are playing ball first.

POST REMOVED FOR NOW

i have just pulled back my door cards to look at the front speakers to see the condition and if they are std or have been upgraded at some point. I guess they have been as there are tweaters in the door cards and the speakers look like mids. They are installed on what looks like to be some ply that has been painted red to match the paintwork(!) Here is a pretty rubbish picture taken with my phone can anyone confirm for me if they are std or not? http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l34/tpv01/picture.jpg

which carb cleaner do you guys recomend?

always handy if you need a little bit or bob but my local scrappy just off the A40 in alperton hasnt had a zed in for a while. There must be other car scraps round london where you can go and look round the cars. Anyone know of any?

fixed!! such a relief! I think i had got moisture in my ignition system somewhere and i flooded the engine trying to start it. I dried it out by taking out the fuel pump fuse (30A long green fuse in the small fuse box near the brake master cylinder) and cranking it over a few times and then jamming the throttle open and leaving it a while. When i went back and put the fuse back in i got it starting and it sounded rough at first but kept it revving so not to stall and then took it for a long run and it came back fine. Success! I dont know if this was the original problem or if that was solved by my cleaning of the connectors and so on. Think i may have knocked my timing out a little espeacilly when i took off the CAS. The car is in for its MOT today, will a normal garage also adjust the injector firing timing with the CAS if i ask them to do my timing?

still really needing help here guys........ tested the error codes on my ECU and i have code 34 det sensor..... does this explain the car not starting? Im reseting the ECU memory now by taking the battery off and will see if it is still there after. Any help?

kind enough to bring there unit round to me to and find out why the bleeding hell my car has stopped working. Beer tokens payable. tried everything else so need to check if its electronic brain is sick. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=88858

Ok i have pulled two of the plugs and they look pretty grubby but the car does run rich. They still spark when touched against the head when cranking so i am producing a spark so electrics, plugs and imobiliser ruled out. What else could be wrong????? could i not be getting compression? how do i check that without doing a full compression test and why would that suddenly fail when it was sitting on the road not running or moving. could the cambelt just disintigrated and died while it was sitting there so my valves aren't opening?? Really need some help here as i have tried everything!