Giant slayer

Mario. I tried this and it hasnt worked. I disconnected the battery for a while and when i put the neg terminal back on i press the A button which is the button to arm and disarm. Have i done it right?

just tried the wiper icon thing but gave up because the football is starting......! the LED i used didnt fit down the whole. I think it was a 5mm so will a 3mm fit better? Will follow your instructions groover and hopefully it will be ok. My next question is about replacing the bulb in the elec window switches. This is not one of the long bulbs but it looks hard to get to the contacts to solder it in. Take the switch apart and it still looks no easier. Has anyone actually managed to replace this bulb with a LED? what LED and resistor would it use? 3mm or 5mm with a 470ohm resistor?

Just the wiper bit. do you need to use the rubber boot thing that held the original bulb? can you remind me which resistor i need to use?

i will be at home in Poole all day but my zed is on the stands at the moment as i have got a bust brake pipe................................You dont happen to have a flaring tool you can bring down that i could use briefly do you mate?

it is not the brake lines as i already have them in SS braided hose. it is the small pipe about 20cm long that goes from the bottom of where the SS hose ends and into the caliper. brake pipe may not be the right term as i have read posts on here that people have said these are a pain to change but these look straight forward. cant see how they could cost much to replace either......

i took a caliper off today and cracked the brake pipe while the caliper was hanging free. What a ridiculous idea to put inflexible pipes joining the calipers which are obviously going to get flexed when the calipers are removed and then making the pipes thin iron in a ideal breading ground for rust!! Anyway can i go to a nissan dealership to get a replacement pipe? hopefully that includes the nut going into the caliper on one side and the nut going the brake lines on the other. Is it likely to be in stock at a relatively large dealer and if i have to order it in is mjp likely to have one in stock? what is the likely price for a thin bit of bent iron pipe?

done. worked best when i made sure the 2 front wheel were raised the same distance on bricks

they are hardly the easiest place to deal with but i will be contacting them. they did tell me to remove all the bits when i sent them so it is my own fault. If i rely on them i might get it in time for christmas!!! surely there are places that sell them..........

The place that was fixing my aftermarket alloy has lost the spigot ring. They are mille miglia wheels so i wont be able to go to the manufacturer to get a replacement as they are shut down. I got a single spigot ring from a motorworld once cos they had a plastic bucket full of them but didnt know they were there so i dont fancy they will have any if i go back there. it is a 64mm ID x 80mm OD ring if anyone has a spare one they can send me or can let me know which colour code they are?

cheers my man. both sides of the front or all four sides? I think i have done that but it is still hard to push the bracket against the chassis and get the bolt in. any other good tips how to do it??

need to reattach my drivers side anti-roll bar bracket after regreasing the bush. where do i jack\take the weight off so i can push the bracket against the chassis so i can rebolt it up? a pat on your own back for the first one to give me the answer!

bit confused. can you summerise how you did it and what you used?

chrisC mate i see that your looking at this thread. could do with a bit of your help fella! Seen from some search on these blasters that you have fitted some yourself......

got some powertrix adjustable tension road for danny at DTA from the smithy catalouge. tried to fit the rods today and matched them up to the green rose jointed ones that were on there but the new powertrix rod was about an inch shorter than the old one even on the shortest setting. The old green ones are courtesy adjustable ones http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=113-1102 these were also set at the shortest setting tried to fit them and i dropped the suspension frame that holds the rose jointed end of the tension rod and the front anti roll bar to be able to get the room to remove the bolt in the rose joint end of the tension rod. Once i put in the new tension rod it seemed too long and i could fit the suspension frame bolts back in properly. What am i doing wrong? is there really that much movement (castor?) to be able to fit the new tension rods that are an inch longer and the shortest setting? have i recieved the wrong rods from DTA? I have contacted danny but he is not around at the mometn and dont want to call him on a friday night. I will be going past SWZ tomorrow (although unfortunatly not in the zed now but in a diesel A4!!) so would they be able to give me the right ones if they stock them and are open on saturdays?

yes! airlocks........ Dave, when you refill you need to a few things. - leave the air release cap off when you refill the rad through the rad cap. - When you have filled the radiator and happy it is full as possible either raise the front as high as safely possible or take it to a steep incline with the front pointing to the sky. Then remove the rad cap and air release cap and run the engine and top the rad up through the rad cap with your water+coolant mixture. You should see the level drop when the thermostat opens and keeping topping up. If you also stick you heaters on full wack you should be able to flush the air out of the heater matrix too. - you should keep an eye on the level in your rad for a few weeks and keep it topped up. also remove the air release cap and top up through there if necersery. - you shouldnt get many air locks in your head or heater matrix if you havent flushed it but the above method is worth doing. Hope this helps.

sounds about right to me compared to other electronic devices but couldnt say for certain. Is that how many wires need to be connected then in total, 10? Where are you going to mount yours. Would it be possible to post up some pictures of the instal and how the fitting went and what you reckon of the unit when you have got it all plumbed in and tried it out?

as it happens mate YES.....well sort of. Just looking for info about them. This is for the 240sx but might be some help: http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/apex.htm and this is the pin layout of the ECU: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=79861&highlight=ecu+harness Hope this helps. Tom

dunno if you saw it on your scotland area thread before it got removed but i will take the Apexi multichecker off your hands if the price is right. same situation as Friday with the collection/post issue. my email is; tp_ventham@msn.com crotchrocket would be interested in your boost controller if it is still available but he is away this week.

I am going from poole in dorset to Haverfordwest in west wales tomorrow. The journey once i get into wales is pretty straight forward but what if the funest way to get to the severn bridge? the options - A35 costal road all the way over to exeter and then get on the M5 but that sounds long and boring. - A350 up through Blandford all the way to Warminster then go past bath to bristol. Used the A350 before and didnt find it particularly inspiring and can be slow in the single lane bits. - get to Dorch on the A35 go on some random a roads up through somerset. never taken this route before but could be a slow one. Can anyone recommend some good roads in the SW that i could link up to get to Bristol whilst still not being too long a journey? PS this would have been a good thread to add to the section i suggested adding a while back of 'recommended roads and routes'. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=98112

just looked at my space saver tyre and it says it should be inflated to 60psi!!! surely that cant be right. that is double the pressure of most tyres and i cant see how a normal garage forecourt compressor would have the puff to blow up to 60psi! Looked on here but cant find anything that goes against it..... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=29632&highlight=60psi Surely not!

I noticed the same thing. I got the bulb out because i looked odd that is was still green when everything else was blue but i couldnt find out how to replace it with a blue LED and which type to use. If you find out post up here how it's done.

interparcel won! £17 for delivering an alloy wheel with a before 12 next day service. parcel2go was looking good until i started asking for the definite time service so i guess it would be good to use for stuff that is not needed in a rush!

peanut butter on toast is a good substitute for naan bread with a curry or chilli if you are too stingly to shell out for it. infact peanut butter goes well with many things, espeacilly cheesy wotsits!

looks like you caught 4 slugs trying to get away from the light and painted over them too!! only messing. Looks good and i think i will try the chrome plasticote on my lights. Post up if you do experience any problems with it. Si, although it would scatter the light more having the inside of the light painted chrome it is better than it being absorbed by the black surface. It wont have much affect on the length or strength of the beam but it would make the lights appear brighter and therefore easier to see for oncoming obstacles and give them more chance to get out the way!

just read through the thread and seems fine but did this guy ever end up producing these and what was the result? Is he still selling them does anyone know? £20 seems pretty steep....