nelsonbd

My wifes renault scenic (2L petrol) has suddenly developed a problem, car starts fine but after a second or two when cold cuts out immediately. Give it enough revs & it keeps going (let the revs drop & it cuts out). When the car is warm it starts fine... & idles ok. Any ideas?? Thanks Barry

I have read that you can put a resistor in to bypass the det sensor - a few people seemed to have tried it & it has worked ok (as the det sensor repair is expensive..). Is it ok to do on the NA?? I am sure the det sensor wire out the top of it was broken & the car running ok when i first got it... Cheers Barry

Hi, I dont think it is miss firing (I cant detect any different engine noise) there just seems a lack of power for about 1 sec and then it cuts in - but not great. Also get non smooth acceleration as if it is struggling to accelerate alot of the time... I have just found out where the det sensor is, I think I found this with a broken wire when i first bought the car about 2 years ago. Its a pig to get to at the back of the engine block & there was a bit of whire sticking out of the top on the sensor thing, so I got a terminal block and a bit of wire & joined the two wires together. Though at the time the car was running fine before & after the repair job! Recently I got the decat exhaust and it has been alot worse.. Can the NA work ok then without the det sensor working - as it seemed to when i first got it? Is it the det sensor that would cause my problem?? Cheers Barry

Hi, I have a Jap NA, auto with decat exhaust system. I have been having a problem with smooth power delivery at or below 2500 revs. Seems to idle fine after about 1 min. Does not accelerate well, can be lags in acceleration for 1 or more secs when pulling away. Sometimes the car is ok (get nice smooth acceleration) but 90% of the time now it has the problem.. sometimes notice the RPM counter fluctuating slightly as if fighting to keep the engine going slightly... I have done a ecu diagnostics and it came up with Detonation sensor circuit problem. So bearing in mind I am not a great mechanic ;) what could be causing it & what DIY should i be looking at. I also cleaned the PTU & TPS connectors before doing the ECU check, whilst i had the hood up.. Checked for loose connectors etc. Cheers Barry

Considering bluetooth uses extra power - I would have thought the bluetooth would not be active if the portable is in standby.. especially on a newer portable - where conserving power (battery) is the idea ... and certaintly not active if you switch it off :D Barry

I am not sure if my problem is similar or not. I have got my coolant problem fixed (leaky water pump) but still have my performance problem. The car accelerates poorly up to around 2 1/2K revs and the engine/car feels like it is pulsing - I see some slight fluctuation on the rev counter when my foot on the accelerator is not moving - dont know if I would class it as stuttering or not.. Certainly not normal smooth acceleration. Some days it is ok & performs normally - today it was struggling like a 3 legged dog! Does this sound like something loose/faulty?? Barry

I have found a leak now, seen a small puddle of water on the board under the radiator - cant tell yet if it is a pipe or the radiator yet - will have a look today in the light. Topped the radiator up & the car has been driving alot better! Its not a massive leak - but enough water has escapped... Could the lack of collant or a coolant leak cause the engine to run badly at low revs??? Barry

Hi, I have had this intermitent problem for a while though now it is more a problem than not. At low revs (up to 2 - 2 1/2) behaving poorly, especially pulling from stop. Revs to about 1 1/2 then acceleration dies & increases very slowly till past 2 1/2. Sometimes the rev counter will drop 500rpm then start to accelerate again slowly. Sounds a bit rough at these revs too as if it is struggling to keep the revs going - feel a slight pulsing in the revs sometimes, but once past problem range accelerates as normal. Idles ok, engine seems to run smooth enough. Also my overheating problem is back again after about 1-2 months of it being fixed :cry: (previously I topped up the radiator & released the bleed valve to get rid of airlocks) Drove home today 10 mins - temp sensor at max. Though turning the engine off for 30-60 secs made it go back to half way. Soon went back upto max in about 30 secs though... Did not hear boiling water from within then engine though this time... I dont know if they are related? I am getting really fed up with the car - only just after spending £1000 on various bits/serivce - new stainless decat exhaust, tyresm discs, pads etc etc Anyone got any ideas? Thanks Barry

Hi, I am interested too. Would like to see some pics of colours/finishes. Also how long will you need the wheels for as my Z is a daily drive and I need to get to work & back :( Dont suppose you do a same day turn around if I turn up with the car?? Cheers Barry

Hi, I use worldwide motors (probably me that reccommend them in previous thread.. :) ) have done me ok & better prices than any Nissan dealership! Barry

For a week or 2 i was trying to organise buying a set of standard wheels off him but the emails/communication just dried up - either sold them to someone else or could not be bothered with me/the sale.... I could not be bothered to chase him any more... Barry

I am going to have a go at the radiator this weekend - if it is an airlock! Someone else has suggested the thermostat might be playing up. The car is not overheating all the time - it has gone 3 days now & ok... Where is the thermostat, does it cost much to replace it?? Cheers Barry

In a previous thread I wondered if the heater matrix had gone on my Jap NA as I was getting no heating but it started working again the next day. Though today I had an over heating problem I think? I was driving back from work about 10-15 mins (not pushing it) and noticed just as I was getting home the temp reading was high & then went to max. Pulled up & popped bonnet - fan on radiator was going, and could hear what sound like air escaping from the raditor cap valve, also could hear a sound like some water was bubbling near the radiator in a pipe low down? - could not place it exactly... I assume I have some sort of problem & not just a dodgy sensor on the dash (like i have a dodgy oil pressure reading on the dash - reads all sorts of values from 0+) I have managed to sort the acceleration problem (sort of!) i found an air hose in 2 bits on the side of the engine block. The hose is really tiny but eventually managed to find a braided fuel hose that was small enough from a local car parts dealer... seems to be stay on but was fiddle to fit... Any ideas with my over heating problem?? Not had any other signs about the heater matrix going... Thanks Barry

Hi, Quick question how does the bonnet panel above the air filter come off? I popped the bonnet & removed the 2 screws underneath but the panel still seems to be bolted at the bottom front end. How/where do i access the bolts?? Also i noticed that one of my main front light cluster units is loose when the bonnet is up. How is it secured to the car body?? I assume the previous owner has left some bolts/screws out. I had a quick look at the other side but it is as dark & cramped as an elephants armpit around that area :) Thanks Barry

As I have not had the coolent in the footwell & it is the first time i have used the heater for months: could it not be just a sticky valve or a block in the heater radiator?? Also someone suggested that I might have a coolant leak elsewhere - that results in the heater matrix being starved - thus no heat.. I will check the coolant level properly today (it was too dark & car was not level last night). I have only been doing short runs so far, I will do a longer run tommorow night and be able to check if the car is overheating or not... Cheers Barry

Hi, I have another problem :( (other is heater problem - see other thread), I am having a dead spot in acceleration on my JAP NA, from about 1500 - 2500. Mainly happens after breaking/slowing right down (say whilst turning at a junction - which is a pain/dangerous) - put foot on accelerator and the car feels like it drops in power & then picks up fine after about 2500rpm all the way to the redline. Its hard to describe, stick your foot on accelerator & for about 1-2secs hardly no acceleration (watching rpm's, very slowly raises, then after 2500rpm very fast acceleration to redline as normal. I have had a custom stainless steel exahust system (decatted) fitted recently but I think I had the problem to a certain degree before it was fitted.. The battery was disconnected duing the installation/service/mot so the ecu must have been reset at some point (as clock had reset). So whats it likely to be/any ideas on how to fix it...?? Cheers Barry

Hi, Just tried to use the heater (1st time probably since winter) and I am getting no heating! Step the temp control from minimum, after about 30 degrees stops blowing cold air directly at me & switches to just cold air at windscreens... Saw a simliar thread about heater matrix having gone, is this what has happended to mine? I havent spotted any water in the passenger foot well but I will go & have a look in a few mins... I did see a puff of steam come through the air vents on one or 2 occasions. Havent noticed the car overheating - temp indicator on dash has been normal... though I do have another problem with acceleration but I assume that is a seperate problem (see my other thread).. Cheers Barry

Just done a quick search on google and found the distributor/importer of the wheel's website... DGT Barry

After getting my £320 wheel refurb quote I have been trawling ebay for some new alloys. I spotted a coulpe of people selling lots of alloys (of the same type i think, DGT), see the links below: set 1 set 2 What do people think? Too good to be true? I am on a low budget and would like to stick to 16" wheels. A). so I dont have to buy new tyres and B). the roards are quite bad around my area and the Z clatters around enough with its jap suspension & 16" wheels... Barry

Thanks for the links/names Just had a look at the wicked wheels website and thier average price is £65 a wheel (inc vat?) So not alot cheaper... I may give them a call for a quote... Also sent an email to spit & polish... Barry

Had this quote for my 4 standard wheels to be refurbed: 4 x £58.50 (for each wheel) 4 x £3.50 (for caps) 4 x £6 (tyre refit) + £extra if damaged internally + VAT! so talking £320 for 4 wheels They have quite bad brake dust markings and the odd scratch or two.. and damage on the rims of the alloy They were going to improve the surface of the wheel to make it smoother - due the rather rough casting of the standard wheel (a haven for brake dust!) They could also give me a slightly different finish - sort of a speckled/sparkly finish... I was expecting less :( This quote seems steep to me but they are the only place I know around Milton Keynes... Anyone got any comments? Cheers Barry

They did not give me the exact measurements it was out.. though from this thread there also seems to be some confusion. Someone else told me that the discs should be the same as the TT... They did say as soon as they put the discs on they locked the brakes?? or something like that (you tell I am not up on brake technology...) :) So does anyone know for sure what a 1991 Jap spec should have? Cheers Barry

Its obvious from that picture the 350z was at a dis-advantage -- it was at least 1 foot behind the white line... :) Barry

Hi, Had car in for a MOT/Service and the garage told me my front discs were worn :( - fine gotta have them done & gave them go-ahead. After several days & 5+ different sets of discs they cannot find a set that fit properly... They are all out slightly. They are experinced 300zx importers/mechanincs too.. They are saying the brakes are not normal even though they look like normal nissan brakes.... They have not seen anything like it - normally off the shelf discs fit them fine, They are suggesting that nissan may have used a different set of brakes perhaps on a limited production run or something like that. I have a Jap NA 1991 - H reg. They are ment to be talking to some top Parts guy at Nissan on thursday to try & help.. Anyone else heard of something like this? Trust me to get this problem... Cheers Barry

I have payed £575 for a custom stainless steel de-cat, - should be getting it tommorrow :) Barry