nelsonbd

The reason it is so expensive is becuase it is a jap import. The equivilent UK versions are usually £300 cheaper.... I am getting quotes too at the mo, cheapest is: £580 for jap NA, 5 years NCB, no points etc, fully comp, daily drive - SDP & commuting, age 30 - from Keth Michaels, maybe worth a try... Just need to try Houghtons now... Where do I find my membership number?? Barry

I had a quote from autoglass for front screen about 6-10 months ago, have a feeling it was around £350-400 mark. Got it done on the insurance after they tried to fit a pre 1990 glass (which does not fit!) There are differences in the UK/Jap glass, quoted me about 4 months for jap glass (to come from japan!), so went with the UK glass & different colour tint.. Barry

Those prices do look good! I take it that the discs & pads are the same for uk & jap import & turbo/NA ?? (I have a jap NA) Thanks Barry

Hi, As far as i know you have to 1991 reg or earlier (mine is 1991 H reg) to get away with no Cats/emission tests. I am having a custom full stainless steel decatted exhaust system made/fitted for £575 as a rear silencer has just gone. Just got to wait 2 weeks for it.. :( Mongoose is a popular cat-backwards stainless steel exhaust system for aound £450 + delivery + fitting + vat... can get it from Zcentre & other dealers - look on traders forum... Barry

After finding my standard exhaust rear section has gone I got a quote from a local company to do a decat stainless steel exhaust system with dual 3" pipes & extra mid silencer for around £600 installed (still awaiting exact figure..) They have done quote a few performance systems, susposidly got some head guy of the GTO club getting his exhaust done there soon.. They seem decent people, had quite a long chat with some of them... Saw a few example exhausts... How does this sound for a custom exhaust? Cheers Barry

Are silencers completely seperate or do they have some pipe work? The bit of the pipe that has gone on mine is right on the bend behind the silencer. Just wondering if this is connected to the silencer or the centre section? Cheers Barry

Hi, I am not well up on exhausts (as you can tell from this thread..) Car sounded strange today looked underneath and I have a hole in the pipe just before it joins the silencer - the other side looks like its about to go too.. How many sections are there to the 300zx 2? Down pipes & rear silencer? How much do the rear standard nissan sections cost roughly? I was looking at a stainless steel exahust (£120 + £330 for mongoose) which is a bit more than I can afford. Are there any others cheaper (skin-flint alert! :p ) that are any good?? Can I just add a stainless steel rear exhaust system to a standard set of front pipes without any problems? Also I have a Jap NA and I have read about the cat-less exhausts - would this effect the NA, I know there can be problems with turbo seals on TT's... Sorry about all the questions! Barry

AndyP, Would this explain why i dont get the groaning going over every pot hole - sometimes of flat roads but i also get it turning more sharply around croners? The bushes on the anti-roll bar, would they all need/worth replacing at the same time - how many bushes are there? Are there 2 anti-roll bars? front & back? Cheers Barry

Hi, Noticed that my car has started making a loud grating/groaning noise. Thought it was from the passengers left wheel area but on looking at the car tonight and bouncing the corners I get a lesser groan from back passenger wheel/suspension. I got my torch out and had a look under the wheel arch - the silver shock bar is showing, the rubber sleeve has gone brittle and perished. If this is exposed I supose the grease/lubricant could have dried up?? Is this likely to cause my groaning problem - dont get it much on flat roads, so i suspected it might be the suspension... Can i get the sleeve replaced or is it a whole new shock? If it needs replacing is it best to replace both?? I sprayed some WD40 on it help lubricate but i suspect that wont last long (thats the extent of my mechanical prowess! :) ) Cheers Barry

Well after my 3hr+ journey last night for a nomal 7 min run - i am stuck at home because it is tooooo dangerous to drive in! :p Car is abondend on the village green at the mo! Barry

I have always noticed in these debates that no mentions the fact you have to steer with one hand whilst changing - i like the auto because you have full concentration on steering with 2 hands & braking. Just seems more safe and secure (when driving at high speed - not that i do that officer ;) )than having to watch the rev counter/listen to engine noise and decide when to change gear etc... so to sum up AUTO! (In silver of course!) Barry

I can do slightly better just over 3 hours to do a 7min journey! Just total grid lock - and i almost ran out of fuel and i had to jump out of the car to take a pee behind a poorly screened bush! Also took 3 people to push me out of car poark and I could not get on my drive way - had to leave car on the village green!! Car was not great in the snow, just glad to get home in piece!! ;) Barry

Hi, Just before having the car serviced I started hearing the odd squeal whilst braking, had the garage take a look - they said pads were ok and cleaned the discs.. Now a couple of months later - it squeals just about every time I brake.. Dont know alot about the brakes - any ideas what i should be looking at, I think it is one of the front brakes... Cheers Barry

unlucky mate! Everyone has tale to tell like yours at some point... Hope the repairs go well & cheap... Barry

i always use bp ultimate on my jap NA. Did not notice any difference on the shell optimax other than price - petrol is expensive in Milton Keynes... my pertrol consumption is crap what ever petrol i put in!!! :cry: Barry

unsual for the board & chip to go without the power supply! Maybe the power supply is faulty too - there are alot of cheap £10 jobs out there - i always go for a decent one after having loads of probs with cheap rubbish... does you board have a warranty? - some of the chips have a 3 year warranty... if so contact the supplier or manufacturer for a replacement... Barry

I had a go, watching the piece of metal that can move vertically - it never moved when i turned the key or pressed the button?!? I tried jamming it up and down but did not seem to do anything - but i did not expect it to - as it does not move... Would this mean the solenoid id broken - does it normally move up/down?? Cheers Barry

Well after ages messing around in the dark/cold, i managed to get the steering column casing off enough to get a decent look at the ignition block. I had a quick go at jamming the release solenoid but gave up... I did find a emergency/quick release method for getting the key out. The plastic around the push button release is seperate to the steering column case and will prise out - leaving a small gap above the push button. Look into this hole and you can see a small white plastic block and a piece of metal in the centre - painted red. Use a small screwdriver and push it down or up, depending upon its poistion and this seems to manually release key/free up the push button. So until the weekend when i have more light/time, i will use this method..... I would still be interested in know how people jammed the solenoid as i struggled to trace the wires as there are so many of them and they are all taped up in black.... Anyway thought i would document this for future people as i did not come up with much after searching this and TTnet's site... Cheers for the help so far.... Barry

how did you un-plug it? what did you remove?

If you do a search on here, there are lots of people who have done it, I think there may be some links to "how to's" as it is a popular DIY job... Barry

I assume the solenoid is the white block on the silver ignition chamber? Did you just sort of unscrew it and detach it? Was there anything else you had to do to it? Cheers Barry

Hi, I had some really bad fog yesterday - could not see more than 20ft in front of the car - had to drive by the white lines on the road. Cant say the ZX front fogs did any good! Anyone else found similar?? They are fine for additional lighting in normal/poor conditions but fog.... Barry

Hi, The jap import does not have rear fogs as standard - they are susposed to be fiited when brought into the uk! Have you definatley got them? Usually convert a reverse light or brake light... My jap import has none - even though it has passed several MOT tests!! Just shows how much testing is done on the MOT - as it is a UK requirement! Barry

yes it is a jap auto - the push button to release the key has failed - probably the sensor on the autobox is not working...

Hi, I have got the stuck key in ignition problem - it has been getting worse - now it is permentley stuck! I have got the cover underneath the dash off but i am struggling to get the steering column off (see pic!) beacuse the case is fouling on the key! I have taken a shot from under neath looking at the ignition system - i am assuming the white block is the bit i am interested in. I have read after searching the forum that i need to jam the mechanism - somehow... Anyone know how to get the steering colum cover off better or exactly how i am ment to jam the mechnism to stop it happening again? Cheers Barry