Dave C

CE28s all day, the lightest and most sought after Jap rim. Very expensive monoblock forged rim. Look great on my Z:cool:

Redline Heavy Shock Proof...:bow::bow::bow::bow:...Have used it in many cars over the last year or so and swear by it. This stuff is hardcore, numerous hard drift and track days and if you have a worn syncro then this will sort it out also. I run it in boxes of any condition or age and have no problems at all. Not so good points £17 a quart Z boxes requires approx 4.5 and 1 for the Diff This stuff is so thick it can be difficult to squeeze "not pour" it into the filler hole

Disconnecting the knock sensor will set a DTC "error state" because the ECU will detect an open circuit. Grounding the knock sensor signal wire "fitting a 1k ohm resistor" won't work either, because the ECU will put the engine management system into a default mode if it doesn't receive a varying voltage signal from the knock sensor. The ECU begins referring to the knock sensor signal when engine speed exceeds approximately 2000 rpm under load. Even a normally operating engine will cause the knock sensor to produce a weak voltage signal under these conditions. You may reach a higher boost by grounding it out but not the full potential of your engine. Is this what the guy was refering too

Things are very good at the moment, had a bit of time to dabble with other things apart from Zs. If all goes to plan we might have a small stand at the meet, courtesy of the Z-Club. Good to hear that you guys are still around. :p might bring a couple of extra refreshments to furninsh the gazeebo :duffer:

Hey guys wots new these days. Its been a while since I was a registered on here "PHNW" as I dont get much time to enjoy the forum like I used too. I have noticed many new club members of which I will prob bump into at Zedfest no doubt. There is a lot of catching up to do by the looks of things, so we will bring some marshmellows, sit round the fire and catch up on the gossip. Its good to see most of the old skool is still around and havent been escorted of the premises. Catchya @ Z----FeSt LaterZ Dave C

Hi bud i remember u well, beleive it or not I still have the curry scented carpet in my lockup :nelson: ...the good old days hey :D What ye doing these days, I heard you were working with Ryan

Mark good to chat with you today As I said come down a take the car for a spin you know where to find me, it will give you an idea what is achievable within a budget. Performance and reliability is what the PHNW mobile is built around. 260hp is do-able, but 280 is taking things to the next level ie "internal mods, cams, porting, springs and a bit of head work" The latter would be nice to have, but would cost a bit. Reaching 260 can be done with the correct external mods and correct mapping. Remember BHP figures mean nothing, you need to aim for a smooth flat torque curve this is where the real power can be achieved. Look at some of the TT dyno graphs, most of them are terrible on the leading and trailing edge but will peak at very high readings for a short period of time only. A good N/A setup should show less spiking and more consistency throughout the rpm range

No worries bud with you saying that the fan worked once you helped it along would normaly point to either the bushes or a coil winding down. the fan should still spin @ 10v to some degree. The goog thing is that you can pick the fans up very cheap of the forum. They rarley go wrong so there are many spare ones flying around

me, Znut and a few other nice motors will be there.

Your speed sensor failing will cause both your speedo to misfunction and your steering to go excessivly light/heavy only. I have added some possible scenarios below. scenario 1 If your car violently shakes right before slowing down "like you have hit something" then my guess is that your CAS "crank angle sensor" connector is corroded or damage. Start the engine and wiggle the harness feeding the CAS, do you notice any change in the engine revs?. The CAS's them selves are very reliable "made by mitibishi" so don’t worry too much about replacing it. If your connector is corroded then do your best to clean it as you cannot buy them separately. scenario 2 If when it slows down can you still rev it in neutral gear ok?. See if it will rev passed 3k without spluttering.If it can go to next step If it cannot then check your MAF "mass air flow" connector for damage/corrosion. If you have checked for corrosion, re-seated it and it still wont rev passed 3k then disconnect the connector from the MAF its-self and see if the engine stalls. If not then your MAF is at fault. If it does then try next step scenario 3 sudden loss of power can commonly be caused by cracked/corroded Coil pack and injector connectors. Start engine and with the aid of an extension of some sort "thin screwdriver, piece of wood anything which will fit", push down/wiggle each of the 6 injector and 6 coil pack connectors in turn, note for engine rev change. If you have find a faulty one then un-plug and try to clean it, if its too far gone "most are" then you can purchase both of these type of connectors relatively easy now days. It is common for the actual injector tops to corrode “green colour” borrow your misuses nail file “sand paper type not metal” and gently rub up and down on each injector top until you can see clean metal. If you have checked all the above and you still cannot pin point the fault then it is highly likely you still have an electrical fault. Check battery terminals are tight and your battery to body earth cable is ok. Also check the positive cable from the battery to the alternator. Have someone run a full Consult diagnostic and display any stored error codes. Put any codes on here as someone will translate it for you. Regrds Dave C

Just a note. The cheap crank pullys we have tried and tested can be fatal to your engines health. As most of them are not balanced to as high spec as the genuine unorthadox pullys they do not spin true. We have seen one which over time caused the cam belt to jump a tooth "3 occasions" and one which at high revs was so unbalanced, the tenioner collapsed. Like all critical engine parts, use high quality only. The unorthadox pullys sold by traders on here are very high spec and come with the correct high quality belts. Paying a little extra for better performance "lighter meterial" and peace of mind is well worth every penny.

The VG30DE non turbo"import only" and The VG30DETT twin turbo “import and UK” for arguments sake are almost the same engine from a servicing point of view. They both have 2 heads 4 cams and 1 big belt. Any mechanic who is used to the TT version will be at home working on the N/A. From experience just changing the belt would be a disaster waiting to happen. When removing an old belt, you will more than likely find wear/play on either/or the Cam belt Tensioner, Water Pump or the cam belt pulley’s. Even if the tensioner doesn’t crack when removing it will definitely be false economy if you do not fit a "NEW" one. I have seen these collapse and destroy engines. Don’t go the cheap route if you spend money on this car, spend it on doing this job properly. As the cambelt change can be a major job, having the water pump, thermostat and Cam end seals replace is highly recommended. Duffer “Andy Duff” as with all good mechanics will advice you correctly. Don’t cut corners Regrds Dave

Clarkey It may be your engine temp sensor at fault. When this fails your fan can either not work or be on all the time. The connectors are prone to corrosion. pop your bonnet and just in front of the engine your will see a metal water pipe smack in the middle will be 2 connectors sitting on top of it. The one on the right is the temp gauge sensor and the one on the left is the engine coolant temp sensor. The latter sensor tells the ECU when the coolant temp reaches a certain set point and if the viscose fan cannot cool the temp down on its own, the ECU will send a signal to the fan relay to fire the "secondary backup" aircon fan. To test this simply switch on your ignition "not your engine" and pull of the left hand "normally blue" connector, if your fan springs into life then you either have a corroded connecter or faulty sensor. Both of these part can be purchased from your local Nissan dealer or much cheaper from MJP "mike freeny". By the way if you find it was either of the above then after reparing them you will notice your fuel economy and performance rise also ;)

Sorry if its long, but tried to explain it as well as I could without getting too heavy Yea we've spent some time experimenting with all sorts of configurations. It all stems back to what you want from your car. I personally prefer low/mid torque with the VVT coming in around 6k for that extra surge. Our current configuration comprises of our own proto-type manifolds, stock cats, divorce centre section and a pair of adjustable back boxes. This way we can alter the backpressure with ease by using different diameter inserts. Its all well and good building a big bore straight through exhaust with a fancy X-pipe, but you must understand that the correct positioning of each box and or x-over pipe is critical in proportion to the distance from the exhaust valves. Fitting modified manifolds can help to even out the exhaust pulses thus allowing the exhaust gases to flow smoother and quicker cutting down on the gas tumble effect. When Nissan designed the exhaust for the Z much time was spent in maximising the exhaust gas velocity. The H pipe was fitted to even out both the differential pressure and the gas pulses between both heads. You have to remember that when new the N/A was good for around 150mph, it very rare to see that sort of performance now days with wear and tear taken into consideration. N/As require velocity over flow, imagine a hose pipe with water flowing through. The smaller the pipe the faster the flow will be. Too small and you will restrict it, too big and you will not generate enough back pressure to drag the rest of water out at any modest speed. Exhaust backpressure is the art of being able to pull “scavenge” the burnt gasses from the combustion chamber at the correct velocity for the required amount of gas produced at a given RPM. It is not simply the movement of the pistons which forces gases out into the manifold, it has to be pulled also. On turbo cars, the turbo creates the backpressure by collecting and restricting the gasses from all exhaust ports, the exhaust pulses are almost even at this point. After the pulses are even and you have forced induction, a free flowing exhaust will provide good performance gains as the gasses can escape freely. Like ive mentioned in the previous post's, installing shiny parts without understanding the physics behind it can have detrimental effects on performance. No two engines breath exactly the same, modified ones even more so. If you have de-cated your N/A then you may of noticed a drop in low end power and steadily increasing 4.5 to 5k upwards, this is very common indeed. As a quick fix without spending $$$ on the rollers, you could try and fit an X-Pipe but look for one which has a std 2.25 inch intake with say a 3 inch collector, this will allow the exhaust gasses to maintain the high velocity "created by the cat pipes" without causing a too much of a bottle neck. With the pulses becoming more equal, the X-pipe will provide a fair amount of much need back pressure. We’ve experimented with X-pipes, Y-pipes, H-pipes many cat-pipe bore sizes and not to mention different length silencer boxes, some good results and some bad. I cannot say which configuration is best to your or anyone else’s car but can only advise. Please note this applies to N/A cars only, exhaust design for turbo cars is some what different. Let me know for what reasons you want to alter your system, and what results your aiming for, I will try and help as much as I can Rgrds Dave

running 370s with stock cats..

Iam always available to give free advice and share my findings. You can reach me on the mobi most of the time.

I do pop in from time to time...lol U doing ok bud.

You have to remember that the N/A Diff runs a different ratio than the TT so max top end will vary greatly. You could compromise acceleration for top end by simply fitting a TT diff or changing your final drive gears. Same goes for the TT owners, fitting an N/A diff would produce a fast accelerating car but will run out of revs earlier. In an N/A @ 140-145 there is little or no revs left unless you lift the limiter slightly. The PHNW N/A is still running strong, we have tried and tested most available parts of the shelf and have fabricated our own with both good and bad results. Our main goal has always been low end torque and acceleration and to date I have not driven a quicker N/A. The biggest mistake people make when upgrading the N/A is removing/altering the very important BACK-PRESSURE. By altering and fine tuning your exhaust we have seen differences of around 30hp between the best and worst configuration. Low/Mid Torque is badly compromised also with complete free flowing systems. We have a TT running 480@ the wheels, although it moves once the 2530s have spooled up, the LAG is horrible. After 5k then the little thing is lethal with a recorded top speed of 198mph. My point is this, side by side from a standing start the N/A is much quicker 0-50mph. Around town and everyday driving, a tuned N/A will always win hands down in both response and drivability. On the motorways it is the exact opposite. You need to ask yourself what is the main purpose of your Z “Commuting, Racing, quarter mile, high speed motor way, drifting ect, each will have different setup and maps. There are a few products on the market, sold to improve your N/A performance. Mixed up and installed without professional supervision the results can be little or even worse than stock, carefully choosing the correct parts together with professional precision engineering, the results can be lethal. It doesn’t have to cost the earth like most people think, good research will save you a small fortune. Read some good books and look on forums for ideas. TIP No 1 TAKE YOUR TIME Refrain from changing too many parts / configurations in one go. Make changes slowly and accurately this way you will reap, both the benefits and will be in a better position to “back pedal” TIP No 2 IF ITS NOT BROKE THEN DONT FIX IT Big n Shinny means nothing when tuning for performance, engine bling can be bad. Using Silicon to replace your hard wearing stock pipes can/will cause problems sometime in the future due to hoses popping off and the walls going soft under extreme conditions. Soft pipes tend to implode under high temp/pressure resulting in little or no flow through them. They look good and thats about it. TIP 3 HEAT-HEAT-HEAT Although Heat is a bi-product of all engines, it is also the biggest single cause of poor performance and engine failure. Without going too deep into the various possible outcomes, be sure to allow a true air path both in and out of your engine bay. Removing unwanted/un-needed components from your bay will allow more cold air to circulate. Cold air means lower oil temp thus less engine wear. The BEST SINGLE upgrade for the N/A is to remove the stock rad, plastic cowling, viscose fan, air con “complete” ect and installing a genuine 100% alloy TT KOYO rad. This process will not only dramatically reduce engine bay temp but will also save around 40Kg and will free up upto 20bhp of the crank "not the wheels". The engine will rev quicker, accelerate quicker and use less fuel due to reduced lag There are literally hundreds of tweaks which you can do to the N/A without spending lots of money. Remember RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH Regards Dave C

Goin Oak's in a min but will catch ye around 5-5.30 if your in. 22PSI here we go. Cruise tonight is around 8.00pm, Ive done the Mascrat video so will hand them out then.

Good car wash though Dave lol. Long time no see, hows it going

Andy please note that a paypal payment has been sent to yourself in order to renew my member subscription

Yea buy 10 sets and get a free keyring. ;)

Its ye tracking matey.... Dont adjust the pedal as this only hides the problem, dig deep and purchase a new slave cylinder from MJP"Mike Freeny" Whilst your at it, you may as well order new rubbers for the master cylinder. A faulty master cylinder will show the same results as a faulty slave cylinder. One other thing check for vacume leaks around the clutch servo tanks.

Hi Jack Don’t get your hopes up bud, as it will fail again soon. Two things to check 1..When it fails, apply some force to your speedo surround" use the side of your hand at high altitude and velocity" give it a good belt a couple of times. If you do have dry joints within the speedo, then performing this test will show up the fault. In most cases your speedo will resume. Remove unit and touch up all joints. 2.. When it fails, if the above test has been performed and the speedo still does not work then turn off the engine and turn it back on again, if your steering all of a sudden goes lighter then the problem is 99% the speed sender unit. Removing the sender is very simple, only 1 screw and 1 connector "from memory " Remove and clean the connector at both ends"male/female" reinstall and try again. Some speedos mostly fail when in damp or wet weather, is mostly down to moisture within the sender unit connector. If you require a new sender, Mike Freeny MJP stocks these and they dont cost too much. Thanks Dave C