edk83

new plugs now in so will try it tomorrow. bloody balence bar probs now!

Changed the rest of my plugs today and one or two of the bolts that hold the balence bar on are threaded! I managed to get them in enough and it doesnt appear to be leaking but its not good! The worst one is the back one of the two on the left side, the thead has gone on the plenuim. If i use a thread kit to make a new thread will the shards of metal go into the chamber and cause a problem? I need some to have a look on the bottom of their plenium and see.

Started changing the plugs today, for 11b's. The old ones are ZFR7F 11 and were really loose! I have only done the front 2 as it has started pissing it down again! Are the ZFR7F 11 plugs even right for the z?

Maf changed, no different! as my heater matriz was leaking im wondering if my ecu is damaged or something

The new shelby mustang was running at santa pod last time i went. It was getting mid 14s every time. pretty slow.

if you paid them already take it back and get them to finish what they started. Even if they find a fault with the new engine and you have to pay for parts etc its better than starting over. If you havnt paid them take it to zedworld in tamworth and get them to sort it.

resistor is in, drove it to work, still the same! checked again when i got to work and still 0 errors. Changing the plugs asap and trying another maf.

Resister in. Ran it for 4min, turn it off, 0 errors, ran it again, still 0 errors! I will drive it to work tomorrow and see if its still hesitating, check for errors again. It could still be an intermittant bad connection to the ecu as it was an intermittant problem anyways.

the one i got is 1 mega ohm and the colours are different than the one used on that link so best test it with a multimeter, you know it could be faulty or a bad connection to it.

ecu problem then? try resetting it my way

if so then the fault is between the resistor and the ecu (thats if the resistor is connected correctly and functioning)

did you reset the ecu ? (disconnect the batt and then press the break to discharge all capasitors) then leave it off for a while, overnight is best.

resistor going in tonight - batt dissconnected till then

i doubt the ipod is the problem

dribble dribble, have a look at zcars.org, the twin hybusa engined mini is in my top ten of wants.

you know she would really like a convertible!

there were a couple of Deloreans at a meet the other night, i was looking at the engine bay thinking my z engine would just about fit in there, Then it might just make 88.8 mph!

18k wheels? are they solid gold?

I have a mk1 golf clipper for sale if daddy is willing to buy her a convertible?!

I had a 1974 Mk1 1300GT and i loved the way it sounded and looked etc. Only prob was that it was very underpowered and heavy. I'd love a cossie one.

device unrecognised is normaly a weak signal on the cable, a bad cable or too many usb extension cables together will cause this. usb cable has 4 wires, +5v -5v, data in, data out try another port and change the cable if its still the same. Also you could try it in another pc to be sure its not your machine. I take it your other usb devices are working ok.

well thats put my mind at rest a bit. as long as its running rich not lean.

lol yeah, or two things causing the same fault as both bad maf and code 34 screw up the a/f mix and timing.

lol ok! Its just that changing the maf stopped it on low boost and it felt very much the same.

I just cut the connector off and connected the wires together as they would be in the connector as i thought the connecter was bad (moving it seemed to make a difference). I will clean and reseat the ecu connector this weekend, I have already ordered the plugs from smithy as want new ones anyways. I'll do the resistance test to check the wiring to the ecu etc and probably do the resistor mod for now, after that I'll try yet another maf. What im really worried about it melting a piston etc if the mixture is wrong and i keep nailing it to test it. Thanks for your input mate.