olliezx

The "plenum bypass" eliminates water current through the throttle bodies, hence sometimes known as the "throttle body bypass". The process involves linking the water feed directly to each turbo, (usually it travels through the TB's first). You are possibly thinking of the "heater matrix bypass" which does indeed not involve the turbos and just links the two larger pipes with a loop. Hope this helps. :) To directly answer SPEEDYS's first question: no you dont need to worry about the return feed from the turbos, this does not have to be modified and is already in place. Unless of course you have the engine out and have removed this stock return piping, I am not 100% sure on it's routing, but I believe you can see a return from the left turbo on the blue piping in the pics above.

I take it you did this at the same time. Are these definitely soldered on the right way. Spark at every plug? Every injector firing?

no problem ;)

I did all the little pipes too with some offcuts, So including cutting these to fit it took about 2hrs.

Agreed, i've had independent tests done to confirm that yes, RED is the fastest colour.

That before 9am's the killer there... Bristol -> Heathrow (19.01-21.01 13th March) £13.40 Heathrow -> Bristol (11.25-13.42 19th March) £26.00 Heathrow Lodge Hotel 13th March £47 w/ free bus. £86 all in.

Not return, no. Any flexibility in your times, what times are you searching by? You can save loads if you are flexible by and hour or so.

Si..... 2 singles is the way to go, they are from £10 each Bristol-London :P

Sorry, that was train not the bus, so even better ;)

Dont know how you got that price. Gloucester->London is £15 for me, and i'm not that far from you. Incidentally I have plenty of parking if you need and it works out cheaper mate.

These pics might help. (Ignore the red circle)

Undo the two screws underneath and lift up the top dash shroud. There is a little black bok on the bracket behind the cluster. Undo the spade connector, et voila!

Get it fixed, shop around for a better quote. It sounds like a pampered Z, hold out till the summer and it will go for £3,000. Or keep it! :hyper: If you sell it now you will get next to nothing. A breaker would get about 3k from splitting it up. If you could break it yourself I would advise breaking it, but you cant so I wont. Even if you fix it for £1k you will still get more back from selling a fixed zed than if you sell it like it is.

check your wastegate actuator feed piping for tightness/splits/obstruction/jets. (small hose on both sides under main boost pipes)

Just experiment with adjustable resistance. Can you pm me pics of your build so far? I'd be interested in seeing and offering up ideas.

yes i noticed that too! mind of its own.

zero. the needle has been knocked round. CAREFULLY put it back to zero. If it is in any way stiff then dont, you should be able to blow it round.

Post up a big pic of the front and back Smithy, I'll tell you what they are ;)

Were your old clocks fine? What an odd situation, are all the connectors in tight etc? Is it definitely a UK dash, the USA ones are diferent. Dotted kph line and 160mph not 180mph if i remember correctly. Dont know if it would make a difference, just throwing ideas.

Sounds like you've been done and someones sold you a Jap cluster with a mph face on it. Easy to tell, remove the cluster and look at the connections on the back. I mentioned the differences in this thread: http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=41352 Or even easier, what units is the boost gauge in?

cheers for that, signed up :)

Go back to tinted, on a black car its the best option, looks much cleaner! The crystals are for lighter cars. What you've done has broken up the front too much, especially with the uk fogs. (p.s. i will buy them from you if you like, red being lighter colour, pm me ;))

I wouldnt mind mine being like this: (But with the subs mounted face down as they are chrome-flame Audiobahns.)

Mine is above the filter, the passenger side oil feed is blanked..