So I have decided to post up here my progress (or lack of!) of a project I bought two moths ago. Its a 1991 black TT auto that had sat around for a very long time. The plan is to get it working, drive it around to trouble shoot any problems, then swap the engine into my smoking red car, then swap the NA from my old black car into the new black car, then fix the old red engine and put it in the old black car!

 

However I am having some trouble; NERD wont rev. I have re attached everything that I could see (wires, tubes, pipes, etc), the car started but was running very rough and would stall its self, when I checked the ECU codes it had only one: Detonation. So i looked at my red one to find it had had the resistor treatment. I put the resistor in NERD and it ticked over better, but still wont rev. It tries to rev but then dips. After a lot of playing yesterday and using my red car as a guide I found some things in the engine bay, that I have no idea what they are:

 

 

My red car doesnt have them at all, they seem to have vacuum tubes that have been spliced in, but also have electrical connectors. On my red car, on the drivers side, there is a random yellow electrical plug not plugged into anything, so Im thinking its had some sort of delete.

 

After more comparing, playing and making sure everything was plugged in in the right places, NERD tickes over fine, but its over-fueling as you can smell it strongly from the exhausts when you stand at the back. When you try to rev her, she starts to rev up to 1500/2000rpm then cuts the revs as if its in a limp mode. Also at tickover it sounds fine, but as soon as the revs go over about 1000rpm, there is a leaking air noise from the area of the driver side hard boost pipe, when the rev drop under 1000rpm, the noise stops. I took the hard pipes off my red car to make sure it wasnt the pipes leaking and it still makes the noise. There are a couple of thin vacuum pipes in that area plus the butterfly valve/throttle body, spent a long time listening, but still cant work out where it is coming from!

 

The car was standing for a very long time (about 10 years), so I think it has old petrol in it, which I will sort out today, that should stop the detonation code. I think its got an air leak or blockage somewhere which means its not getting the right amount of air so the ECU is in limp mode which is why it wont rev. It had BOVs on it, installed by the previous owner. When BOVs are installed, is anything removed or blocked to make the BOVs deal with pressure? I read something about re-circ valves that are the stock/factory way of dealing with the boost pressure, do these get removed when BOVs are installed? Would this cause my problem?

 

Anyway, any help would be much appreciated and if any local chaps have an idea and want to pop over to assist me, just ask!

 

Here are soome pictures of it so far:

 

The BOV ports will need capping off under the nose panel at the front but I would assume this has been done.

The solenoids will be the AIV and a few other bits, looks like it’s been butchered a bit. Personally I’d go through and delete all that nonsense, replacing the small pipes that are left. You should then be able to see the wood for the trees. I assume two of the big four I tercooler pipes are just off due to inspection but it’s not going to run well with them off.

 

Then I’d do a boost leak test, identifying any vaccum leaks, which will no doubt be present.

 

Check and set the Trottle Position Sensor.

 

I would guess the MAF is faulty, but you need to work through logically.

The BOV ports will need capping off under the nose panel at the front but I would assume this has been done.

 

The BOV were attached to the large boost hard pipes, which are missing in the picture. Nothing under the nose panel except a MAF and a dual airfilter thing

The solenoids will be the AIV and a few other bits, looks like it’s been butchered a bit. Personally I’d go through and delete all that nonsense, replacing the small pipes that are left. You should then be able to see the wood for the trees. I assume two of the big four I tercooler pipes are just off due to inspection but it’s not going to run well with them off.

 

Then I’d do a boost leak test, identifying any vaccum leaks, which will no doubt be present.

 

Check and set the Trottle Position Sensor.

 

I would guess the MAF is faulty, but you need to work through logically.

 

Yes, the two pipes were off for inspection when I took the pictures. ill go through and delete a few things and make it easy to follow pipes!

 

The MAF is fine, that was the first thing I test, it works on my red car no problem. Ill look at the TPS and a leak test. Thanks!

The BOV were attached to the large boost hard pipes, which are missing in the picture. Nothing under the nose panel except a MAF and a dual airfilter thing

 

Sorry I'm talking about the recircs when you fit BOVs you need to block off the other ports that are under the nose panel and air filter

So after a lot of fiddling, changing pipes and various other components, I have soved the problem! the car now revs as normal!

 

For anyone out there that has the same problem...make sure your intercoller is piped up properly :blushing:

Mine has two pipes on either side and top left goes to bottom right and bottom left goes to top right, once I swapped two pipes around the car worked fine. I guess because one turbo was trying to force air into the exit of the other. Having never had an after market intercooler before and not getting paperwork/installation manual with it, I do feel a bit stupid! :lol:

 

Anyway car is working now, I have decided to leave everything alone in the engine bay as it all seems to work for the moment and crack on with the other jobs to get it through an MOT. Bumper has been trimmed and attached, indicators attached. The fog lights fit, but have nothing to attach to, so some form of bracket will be needed.

 

Interior is fine for the moment, boot lid needs replacing or a spoiler attached and the bootlid brake light fitting. Tyres need a bit more air and the brakes are really rusty. Not sure if they will clean up with a drive or will need replacing, but that is Tuesdays job!

Spend all day yesterday putting thing on, readjusting and fettling. I even managed to wash and polish it just to see the state of the paint work! It seems to be all original JDM black with a slight metallic flick to it. Ill investigate more later. I took it for a drive around my neighbourhood to see how it ran, gearbox was perfect. Smooth shifts, no bangs or crashes when changing. The engine seemed to be low on power, but the more I drove it around and around the better it seemed to run. More power seemed to appear and less black smoke! The TPS needs setting up properly though. On returning to the house after doing 7 miles of loops, I smelt/noticed smoke from the front nearside caliper. That will need rebuilding before the MOT, might also explain the slight loss of power. Its hard to gauge the power thing, because compared to my NA car its quicker, but compared to my TT car, its slower. My TT car has had things done to it, so really I need someone used to a stock car to drive it :lol:

 

Very happy with the car bearing in mind its been sitting for 10 years, when the engine swap happens, I have new timing belt and all other gubbins to do while the engine is out, so when it goes back in, it will be perfect!

 

Anyway here are some pictures and I even got a rare shot of all three cars together(ish), the wifes TT did photo-bomb though....!

 

Body looks very clean mate. :thumbup1: The lower stonechip area can be painted with a brush because of the rough finish I have done it a few times now with my red Z.

Body looks very clean mate. [emoji106]1: The lower stonechip area can be painted with a brush because of the rough finish I have done it a few times now with my red Z.

There are a couple of tiny dings I found but nothing to worry about, I'll get them pulled out at some time. I was wondering what to do about the faded/whiter stone chip area, thank you!

 

Sent from some app that I don't know how to use!

Body looks very clean mate. :thumbup1: The lower stonechip area can be painted with a brush because of the rough finish I have done it a few times now with my red Z.

 

Indeed - that's why I kept mine that way.... However. looking at Andrew's car now, I reckon I should have gone smooth too...:wink: