Hi, Ive bought a 92 TT auto just over a month ago. Its not done much mileage since it was imported 15 years ago and needs some maintenance on it, to turn it into a daily commuter (8 miles a day), and I was just looking for some advice.

 

From what I can see the car needs new tyres, brake and the cam belt doing.

 

Can anyone recommend decent pads and discs for road use. Ive seen the brembo front pads and pagid discs, and pagid rear disc and pads on euro car parts, and was wondering whether it would be advisable to put money towards ebc redstuff pads and discs, or tarox discs. And is it worth paying for drilled/grooved over standard brakes for fast road use?

 

Im also looking at changing the 17 inch alloys with 235/45 tyres for some 18's, possibly 350z forged ones, would it be wise to go for a thinner profile such as 40 or 35 with the increase in alloy size? And what tyres would be good to go with the car? I'm looking at michelin pilot sport 4's but they are expensive.

 

As I need to get the cambelt done, as its not been done in several years, could anyone recommend a place which knows 300zx's within the West Midlands/Warwickshire area?

 

Id also be looking at a possible remap in the future to take advantage of the Japspeed exhaust, so advice on a place to take it to would be appreciated.

Not sure what your budget is, but there are plenty of quality split rim wheels on ebay in decent fitment.

 

These are interesting for example. 10" rears @ ET40 for example would give a really tough look. The fronts could use a 10mm spacer but that would give you a nice agressive stance.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATS-Set-Of-Staggered-Alloy-Wheels-for-Toyota-Soarer-or-LS400-PCD-5-x-114-3/173003399345?hash=item2847ce60b1:g:fuMAAOSw-09aHSkN

We had a good forum chat about and explaination of offset in this thread

 

https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?188396-Just-bought-some-wheels-help-please

Not sure what your budget is, but there are plenty of quality split rim wheels on ebay in decent fitment.

 

These are interesting for example. 10" rears @ ET40 for example would give a really tough look. The fronts could use a 10mm spacer but that would give you a nice agressive stance.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ATS-Set-Of-Staggered-Alloy-Wheels-for-Toyota-Soarer-or-LS400-PCD-5-x-114-3/173003399345?hash=item2847ce60b1:g:fuMAAOSw-09aHSkN

 

Thank, ive been looking at a some gold JR23's and Rota MC3's but I think im going to go with these.

 

https://www.7twenty.co.uk/collections/style49-1/products/style49-matt-bronze?variant=1622667139

 

front 9.5j et18 and rear 10.5j et15

From the calculator you have linked the 9.5j et18 would fit but the 10.5j et15 would be too wide on the rears without rolling the arches if im correct?

 

If that is the case would 9.5j all round be ok with 235/40 on the front and 265/35 on the rear? Or would 235 be too narrow on the front 9.5j alloys as well.

 

Im not into a stance look, I just really like the alloys, and they only seem to make 9.5j and 10.5j and I would like staggered alloys.

 

Ive been looking at the Meister R coilovers as well. They look like a great deal with the discount code but Im going to get the water pump and cambelt sorted before I buy them

10.5 et15 will fit on the rear, but you will need stretched tyres and a lip roll at the least - again it depends how low you want your car to sit. The problem with a lot of UK available aftermarket alloys is that they get the nice widths, but ruin it with stupid offsets that mean there's very little dish compared to what you could have (if dish is your thing) Ideally 18x10 et20-30 (if you want a "square setup" gives the 'flush' look without too much bodging. Generally people will run slimmer tyres on the front than the back.

10.5 et15 will fit on the rear, but you will need stretched tyres and a lip roll at the least - again it depends how low you want your car to sit. The problem with a lot of UK available aftermarket alloys is that they get the nice widths, but ruin it with stupid offsets that mean there's very little dish compared to what you could have (if dish is your thing) Ideally 18x10 et20-30 (if you want a "square setup" gives the 'flush' look without too much bodging. Generally people will run slimmer tyres on the front than the back.

 

I want to avoid running stretched tyres and even a lip roll so I think it will have to be 9.5j all around. I havent seen any other alloys like them on the sites ive been looking on for under £1000 all around (Maybe I haven't been looking well enough).

 

When I do get coilovers I still want to be able to clear speedbumps and the front bumper not to scrape on normal kerbs. I just figure Id rather get coilovers, than have to over pay if one of the coils or other parts of the old suspension breaks.

 

Its too bad they dont make any narrower alloys for the fronts.

 

What tyre setup would you suggest with 9.5j all around ET18. Would 235/40 front and 265/35 rear be fine?

My old alloys were 9.5J and ET30 at the rear and they sat very slightly inboard of the arch lip. No rubbing whatsoever and not far off flush either.

 

My current alloys are 10J and ET35 at the rear and the tyres have to have a stretch so as not to foul on the lip.

My old alloys were 9.5J and ET30 at the rear and they sat very slightly inboard of the arch lip. No rubbing whatsoever and not far off flush either.

 

My current alloys are 10J and ET35 at the rear and the tyres have to have a stretch so as not to foul on the lip.

 

What do you have and did you have on the front. And what tyres did you have?

 

If its not advisable to run 9.5j all the way around then i would get these in 8.5j front and 9.5j rear https://www.performancealloys.com/wheel-details.aspx?ID=7243&offset=False&load=False

Its either this in 9.5j all the way around https://www.7twenty.co.uk/collection...ant=1622667139

 

or these staggered 8.5j and 9.5j https://www.performancealloys.com/wh...lse&load=False

 

But because ive never bought alloys, or different tyres to what was already on the car before I dont know what to choose, so I basically need someone to tell me what to buy

Just to complicate things, ride height will effect the way the wheel sits in relation to the arch. What’s perfect offset for one persons ride height isn’t for another.

Just to complicate things, ride height will effect the way the wheel sits in relation to the arch. What’s perfect offset for one persons ride height isn’t for another.

 

I would only lower it to make sure there isnt much gap, im not fussed about even lowering the car.

I think my meisters are at max extension and it clears all speed bumps, it looks like this...

 

 

I know it's moving, but it's accelerating in 4th or 5th there so not really under any load. In my other pics I have 100s of Kgs of tools in the boot!

 

Tyres, get Vredestein Ultrac or Sessanta. Awesome sporty grippy tyres but not so soft that they will rub bald in a year.

 

Avoid Maxxis tryres, they crack and let go in a weird (although very progressive) way.

 

Toyos T1s will probably be alright as would Yokohama Parada tyres, but the Yokohamas are a bit slippy in the wet and both can be overheated and overwhelmed... albeit probably only if you're me or a getaway driver...

 

I have Vredestein Vorti on the front and Kuhmos on the back... but that's a terrible idea (and I love it :biggrin:) That is because if you put lots and lots of grip into a car, if and when it lets go, it does so quickly and at higher speed. My rear tyres are safe and durable, but my control at the front end is fabulous.

I think my meisters are at max extension and it clears all speed bumps, it looks like this...

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]109906[/ATTACH]

 

I know it's moving, but it's accelerating in 4th or 5th there so not really under any load. In my other pics I have 100s of Kgs of tools in the boot!

 

Tyres, get Vredestein Ultrac or Sessanta. Awesome sporty grippy tyres but not so soft that they will rub bald in a year.

 

Avoid Maxxis tryres, they crack and let go in a weird (although very progressive) way.

 

Toyos T1s will probably be alright as would Yokohama Parada tyres, but the Yokohamas are a bit slippy in the wet and both can be overheated and overwhelmed... albeit probably only if you're me or a getaway driver...

 

I have Vredestein Vorti on the front and Kuhmos on the back... but that's a terrible idea (and I love it :biggrin:) That is because if you put lots and lots of grip into a car, if and when it lets go, it does so quickly and at higher speed. My rear tyres are safe and durable, but my control at the front end is fabulous.

 

Would those tyres be good for everyday driving as well, as most of the time the road conditions are normally damp or just cold. from what ive rear the pilot sport 4's are the best. What alloys do you have on your car, and what is the width and offset?

I was wondering because the fronts im looking at are these 18x8 ET 43 (5x114.3) 73.1 Centre Bore and the rears are 18x9 ET 35 (5x114.3) 73.1 Centre Bore

 

so i want to make sure that if i went with the same tyre setup as yourself, it would fit correctly

Although after putting the details of my car in, it says that the 8j et43 fronts would not fit? From the calculator I cant see why not if the 9j et35 alloys would fit. Am I missing something or is their list when i select the car just incorrect?

 

https://www.performancealloys.com/wheel-details.aspx?ID=7243

Wheel fitment is a minefield buddy, you could get one wheel 8.5" et 35 that fits your car, and one that doesn't (due to spoke design/ caliper clearance) so never trust an online calculator.

 

Essentially if going for 8's I'd recommend an offset between 10 and 30 (the higher the number, the closer inward they sit). A common fitment is 8's front and 9's rear, and with a wider width, coupled with the smaller calipers on the rear, you can afford a little higher offset.

 

Best thing to do in reality? Find the wheels you like, get on google images and look up z32 + "wheels you like", then click on the one you think looks best and you'll often find what widths and offsets they are using - then you know it fits :)

The wheel offset calculator will give you the position of the new wheel's inner and outer rims relative to the old wheel.

So in effect you can tell how the wheel will look in the wheel arch and whether it will clear suspension components.

Wheel spacers can be used to make adjustments to the total offset (and look) when the exact wheel offset required

is not available.

 

 

The profile of the new wheel's spokes and inner rim will determine if the wheel will fit over the brake caliper. The diagram

below is for aftermarket BBK's, but the same applies for stock calipers. Again wheel spacers can be used to clear a caliper

if required but may push the wheel too far out (see above).

 

 

Usually aftermarket BBK manufacturers provide caliper profile templates so that you can see if a wheel will fit over the

caliper's profile. The example below is for an AP Racing AP7500 caliper:

 

Edited December 22, 20177 yr by AndrewG
Wheel spacers added

For reference:

 

Fronts 19x8.5 et22 225/35

Rears 19x9.5 et25 255/30

MeisterR coilovers, side shot shows ride height.

 

 

 

Ordered the calibres after asking them if they would fit. After looking at the cost of a full set of pilot sport 4's I'm wondering would it be worth saving £80 and getting a set of Goodyear F1 asymetric 3's instead?

 

I've also noticed a few weeks ago after driving back after a service from Leicester a knocking sound from the drivers siderear. Which after driving to work and back a week ago turned into a scraping noise and then a wobble.

 

Would this be the suspension. And would it be worth me putting in coilovers if it is?

I've found this Twin street advance kit which appears to be very cheap. https://h-tune.co.uk/tein-japanese-performance-coilovers-various-models/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAyZLSBRDpARIsAH66VQI7oyApTLy8b3I7_qynOPXb8ZHwgkyl7GxO5mxJdE2Xn5kbcmdweDkaAgA8EALw_wcB#189=7703&195=7899&192=7932

Would this be suitable for fast daily use? Or should I pay twice as much for the flex z kit or Meister's R's?

Be very careful driving with a wobble! It could be a few things, somewhere like an ATS may put it up a lift for free and have a look. I've had that service from them before.

 

My advice for checking such things. "However violent you think you or a garage are being, prying with long bars, or by generally riveing-on at the wheel or suspension. It will be less violent than oversteer in the dry, which these cars can take."

 

If you need coilovers or were getting them anyway Tein is good stuff. It will be fine and as far as I can tell is the same spring rates as meister r.

 

All of those tyres will be safe good tyres. "cough" get vredestiens :wink:

 

With the wobble, if you can feel or see it doing it, by pushing the wheel top with your foot for example, it is a 'BAD' problem. Looseness in suspension that you can hardly detect is dangerous, never mind a one inch clunk" :clover:

Further to my last, as much as that wobble could be a million things, it will be the most common and obvious thing.

 

Don't go down a rabbit hole of convincing yourself it's a driveshaft, or the diff or a subframe bush or something. It won't be, it'll be something obvious, a common problem, or something you have fiddled with recently.

 

It'll get sorted :)

Edited December 29, 20177 yr by tomfromthenorth

I've also noticed a few weeks ago after driving back after a service from Leicester a knocking sound from the drivers siderear. Which after driving to work and back a week ago turned into a scraping noise and then a wobble.

 

Have you checked that the wheel nuts are tight?

If your on a budget but still want reasonable quality brakes then Mtec ( ebay seller ) sell these fronts for £160 and also do the rears >>

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]109832[/ATTACH]

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300ZX-3-0-TT-Front-Rear-Drilled-Grooved-Brake-Discs/290479628736?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A300+ZX&hash=item43a1ef61c0:g:J6YAAOSw4GVYSsMt

 

 

For normal road use they will be fine and using Mintex pads will give a good feel, of course this is assuming the calipers are in good order, be careful when bleeding to not allow the brake pedal to go fully to the floor, this can cause seal issue in the master cylinder.

 

 

Jeff

 

This. Def this. I use these guys for brakes on all my cars, I get the disc drilled and grooved and coated in the silver protection stuff.

Have you checked that the wheel nuts are tight?

 

It could be that. But loose wheel nuts develop very quickly. A few miles from fine to wheel not on!

From what I read of vredensteins they're not good in the wet, But amazing in the dry. However as I will be dailying the car, most of my driving will be most likely damp, and very rarely some puddles. So I would need tires that are decent in the wet moreso than the dry.