Hi, Ive bought a 92 TT auto just over a month ago. Its not done much mileage since it was imported 15 years ago and needs some maintenance on it, to turn it into a daily commuter (8 miles a day), and I was just looking for some advice.

 

From what I can see the car needs new tyres, brake and the cam belt doing.

 

Can anyone recommend decent pads and discs for road use. Ive seen the brembo front pads and pagid discs, and pagid rear disc and pads on euro car parts, and was wondering whether it would be advisable to put money towards ebc redstuff pads and discs, or tarox discs. And is it worth paying for drilled/grooved over standard brakes for fast road use?

 

Im also looking at changing the 17 inch alloys with 235/45 tyres for some 18's, possibly 350z forged ones, would it be wise to go for a thinner profile such as 40 or 35 with the increase in alloy size? And what tyres would be good to go with the car? I'm looking at michelin pilot sport 4's but they are expensive.

 

As I need to get the cambelt done, as its not been done in several years, could anyone recommend a place which knows 300zx's within the West Midlands/Warwickshire area?

 

Id also be looking at a possible remap in the future to take advantage of the Japspeed exhaust, so advice on a place to take it to would be appreciated.

Not recommended to daily but here we go.

 

I have the brembo pads, and don't be tainted by the name, they are not track pads or anything special. Their description says 'OEM quality or better' which is exactly what they are, OEM pads nothing special and dont grab like a track pad would. Maybe good for daily driving though as a track pad might wear out faster? I don't know what to recommend rotor wise as I just have the brembo ones (once again just OEM) but I think AndrewG or Slick Pete can add some input as they have experience with brakes.

 

With 18s, I would advise 35 profile tyres and if you can get as much width as you can on the rims. I use pirelli P-zeros but tyre technology has come along since they came out and they are better alternatives nowadays.

 

For the cambelt, take it to Jimmer@PowerZed in Bristol.

 

For Tuning take it to Greg@ProTuner in Coventry.

 

Hope that helps. Other people can give you more specific recommendations for brakes and tyres.

Welcome to the club Vish and well done on buying a 300zx :thumbup1: Have you any more details or pics?

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Its a Targa, and done just under 90,000 miles. Its never going to be the family car as I have a CLS for that, which im hoping to change for an S6.

 

The brake packsages on here look pretty good, as the brake discs look better than the ones on euro parts. From the looks of it the 2 packages at the bottom would be suited to my need of replacing all 4 pads and rotors, anyone want to pick for me?

 

For the Rays 18" 350z alloys that ive been looking at, it says that they are 8.5j and all suited to 245mm wide tyres. Would it be suitable to put wider tyres on?

Sure 265's will be fine on 8.5j's

Would that be all around? 265/35

Hello mate, welcome to the club. That looks a lovely car :thumbup1: I like the wheels and the leather interior.

 

Brakes

Back when I had 330hp ish, I had brembo pads and ebc drilled discs and I set fire to them at Croft. I was getting 3 laps then softness creeping in. I did about 6 consecutive laps after mid day and had a huge brake failure and smoke billowing from my front wheel wells. Do not skimp on zed brakes, they are powerful and heavy cars, particularly as an auto. Buy once and buy them well.

 

I now have K sports, overkill for your car I am sure, but I use Yellow Stuff pads and they aren't bad at all, I have used Reds and they weren't anything special as I recall. Blackstuff pads however, not good.

 

Wheels

I also used to have 17 inch, 235s all round. Not really enough stability if you ask me, even at 300ish hp. I now have 235/40/18s and 265/35/18s and they did require a small adjustment to the arches in order to fit, however I am slightly lowered. They only needed a little bending and file-ing of the little lip inside the arch. You'd probably be alright on standard suspension. Do not skimp on good tyres! The ones that were on when i bought it... wheel spin in cruise control :lol:

 

Maintenance

Alic has recommended some good places. But it isn't a hard car to service yourself. What I would watch out for in you car is rock hard and brittle hoses, both fuel and power steering. And Vac/boost lines for that matter. If I were you I would do this:

 

Fuel filter, genuine OEM filter, I get them from my local motor factors a few at a time because they aren't expensive. It is honestly easy to do if you do it right, but it's also easy to explode high pressure fuel into your face if you don't vent it first so ask on here before you do it.

 

Then ring merlin motorsport, they're really good, and buy 2m of this stuff,

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/high-spec-rubber-fuel-hose-by-cohline-per-metre-2240-0600

Good fuel hose that is, (don't skimp on cheap hose it goes hard, cracks and squirts fuel everywhere) You can even plumb your power steering system with it... Top tip for fuel hose, use massive garden shears to cut it. At some point your car will get fuel leaks so get ahead of the game with that new hose.

 

While you're at it get some new jubilee clips

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/stainless-steel-fuel-hose-clip-10-5-12mm-sfhc-11

 

Then get some vacuum hose. A very small vac leak can make your car run terribly badly. For that I use Auto Silicon Hoses, not the best pipe quality but for Vac line they are fine. I bought yards of it in red so I could see what I'd replaced and just refreshed all the hard horrible lines on the balance bar etc. If you don't believe me, take one off with the engine idling! Again, more small clips for that.

 

Then it's just Plugs.

I use BCR8ES and they have been fine for many many miles. Other people use other plugs.

 

Oil and Filter

Again, I use an OEM oil filter, and I use 10w40 Semi Other people use fully, but I have put 4.4l of 10w40 Semi in my engine every 2/3000 miles for 40'000 miles.

 

Gearbox oil and filter is probably a good idea too.

 

A water pump with the cambelt is a good idea, mine 'proper' failed at 6000rpm! Threw a belt and everything.

 

Just my advice mate, you have bought and awesome car, I hope it gives you many years of happy motoring.

Would that be all around? 265/35

 

I'm running 265/35/18 on rear and 235/40/18 on front if I remember correctly. This is how it was set up when I got it.

 

I think I have 9.5J rims on the back so could go wider in the future. As for the fronts I'm not sure if running 265's would be an issue with steering clearance etc, I'll let someone else answer that as I'm no expert.

I run 265 rears lowered no problem with the arches, it depends on your wheels offset.

Have you got a picture of the engine bay?

Hi and welcome to the club Vish. That's a nice looking Zed you have picked up too - good luck with your new toy...:clover:

 

Some good advice in the above posts. As for tyres, I also run 265/35/18 on the rear and 235/40/18 on the front; my Zed is lowered about 20-25mm on Meister-R coilovers and I have no issues with rubbing or clearance...

 

I will also second the vote to get your car to Jimmer at Powerzed - Bristol is not that far down the M5 for you, considering the importance of getting the cam-belt done right!

 

Richard:thumbup:

Or even the M4 Richard :lol:

Thanks for all the advice everyone. Ill upload a picture of the engine bay tomorrow after work.

 

By the way ive also been told that one of the rear tyres is 14 years old which is why im looking at alloys and tyres now. I'll definitely go with the pilot sport 4's, as cheaping out on tyres is the worst thing I could probably do.

 

For the brakes ill go with basic drilled/slotted, and then look at some yellow stuff pads. The Ksport brakes would definitely be overkill, as I can't afford to go track racing, as I wouldn't be using the brakes a great deal, So I guess they would last a while.

 

Amy recomendations on coilovers since i'm doing everything else anyway. I don't really care about lowering it much, but with the thinner rear tyres im expecting there to be enough of a gap to make it worth lowering, if im going to go with 235/40/18 on front and 265/35/18 on the rear with the 8.5j offset on all of the alloys

I'm unsure on the coilovers, it may be worth keeping the ground clearance for speed bumps, as there are many on my route to work as I like to avoid traffic

If your on a budget but still want reasonable quality brakes then Mtec ( ebay seller ) sell these fronts for £160 and also do the rears >>

 

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300ZX-3-0-TT-Front-Rear-Drilled-Grooved-Brake-Discs/290479628736?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A300+ZX&hash=item43a1ef61c0:g:J6YAAOSw4GVYSsMt

 

 

For normal road use they will be fine and using Mintex pads will give a good feel, of course this is assuming the calipers are in good order, be careful when bleeding to not allow the brake pedal to go fully to the floor, this can cause seal issue in the master cylinder.

 

 

Jeff

I'm unsure on the coilovers, it may be worth keeping the ground clearance for speed bumps, as there are many on my route to work as I like to avoid traffic

This is my ride height. To be honest with you, it scrapes never but it bottoms out on 100% of speed bumps, so if my commute had speed bumps it would kill me to hear it scraping every day. On 265/35/18 (rear) btw

Edited December 17, 20177 yr by Alic

Mine has meister R coilovers. It handles really well, it isn't uncomfortable and it doesn't bottom or scrape. And! It can do speedbumps. I have never had it catch on anything.

 

I set the car up to hustle around small lanes in scotland and wales so compliance and suspension travel has been important.

 

The camber angles are fine too, as I don't think it's much lower than stock.

 

Meister Rs were the shocks to have at one point.

if im going to go with 235/40/18 on front and 265/35/18 on the rear with the 8.5j offset on all of the alloys

 

That's width not offset. Neither have any meaning without the other in terms of fitment.

 

You need both figures to understand fitment.

Ok so the width is 8.5j and the offset is 33mm. So how would that affect fitment?

 

Here is the engine bay. The picture isnt great but its dark and foggy outside

 

Ok so the width is 8.5j and the offset is 33mm. So how would that affect fitment?

 

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Is that a square set up? Fronts same as rears?

Yes

Is that a square set up? Fronts same as rears?

 

Its the 350z V1 rays alloys that im looking at

The Rays are staggered. 8j front 8.5J rear iirc. 265 would be too big on them.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rays-Engineering-Forged-18-X-8-5-Alloy-Wheels-114-3-350z-wheels/152820567927?_trkparms=aid%3D777003%26algo%3DDISCL.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D49569%26meid%3Da9fa1fab403d4cf6a7d492275a7bdff6%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D292370808863&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&autorefresh=true

 

The ones im looking at say 8.5j all around. Maybe the guy is selling 2 sets of rears

Yeah, they'll fit no problem. Offset is a little weak though, but they'll look fine if not a little skinny.

They sold before I could accept the offer that was sent to me, I guess i'm still going to be looking for now. I'd prefer a full staggered set I think anyway. The 350z alloys are the cheapest way I can think of getting a full set of forged alloys that will last.

 

Although despite all the the advice I still can't decide on anything other than investing in good tyres, a cambelt and water pump change, some rubber fuel hose, and possibly some Meister R's with the discount code. Ive been put off the MTEC discs as im reading that some people have ended up with cracked discs, and that they attract rust really quickly.