I'm a bit lost were to start here. So I'll describe the faults and symptoms and what I've got. I've tried using the diagnostic on the pod which revealed not a lot and the instructions were incredibly poorly written and didn't actually seem to corrolate with what was infront of me.

 

I've got the early didgital climate control, with the high & low settings on the side. The car is an 89/90 model JDM car. The air con compressor and rad are removed. Some of the fault predates this, the other has occurred a few years after those mods so it's not in my opinion the likely culprit.

 

The two faults I have are as follows;

When the fan is on it blows hot air, regardless of the set temperature. This making the cabins touch cosy as the heat exchanger is permanently hot. Using the manual activation of the actuator in the diagnostic program allows cool air to be blown. Returning to normal operation the heat is back.

The fan blower itself now no longer works. This started a few weeks back. No air is switched on regardless of the settings.

 

I've read a few threads on the subject but now found a golden goose and I really need some pointers at least what can I test and isolate this pesky issue. I've had a look at the fuses in the drivers footwell and none are blown.

Does this help?

 

Ideal. Cheers Andrew. I believe I’ve figured out the indicator fault, the relay for this is separate and up above, I think I must of disconnected it and left it unplugged. Because I forfilled all the fuse box plugs I didn’t spot it a miss.

I managed to get 10 minutes after work today. Put the Radiator fan relay in the hole. Still got no lights inside, the pod and the lamps such as engine check are all out... I really can’t be arsed with this and it’s all that’s keeping the damn thing off the road.

Can anyone confirm, is the indicator relay on the accelerator pedal on a series one J spec?

Can anyone confirm, is the indicator relay on the accelerator pedal on a series one J spec?

 

There isn't a relay in the indicator circuit. Do you mean the flasher unit?

Yeah, that must be it Andrew.

Flasher unit location:

 

 

Looks like:

 

Can’t be that then, I’ve not been near that. Grr. Cheers again Andrew.

So further investigation reveals the fuse marked ASCD A/T control is blowing.

With some faffing about a pile of blown fuses, I’ve worked out that if I remove the plug marked M11 on the fuse board not only does the indicator switch off but the fuse doesn’t blow. Still no engine lights etc. This is the plug;

Also what’s this that’s unplugged?

There was a spade connector with red cable and an inline fuse going to the centre consol, chased that down to a dead end, bin. 1g saved :D

Edited April 19, 20187 yr by Stephen

I think there’s a short in that portion of the loom. I think I’m going to have to pay some one to solve this, I just haven’t got the patience right now. Either that or cut my losses and finally sell it.

Isolated the issue back to here.

This may not be of help, but My red car kept blowing a fuse and I would only have full beam, no tail lights and no dipped beam. This went on for weeks, some times it would last a few days, sometimes it would be 20 minutes. I could not for the life of me work out what was doing it.

 

Then one day I was changing some interior trim and found the spade connector that connects to the underside of the cigarette lighter socket was broken and was moving around and would occasionally touch the metal handbrake mounting and boom, fuse blows. I did a couple of tests to prove my theory. I changed the connector for a new one, and its never blown a fuse since.

 

All I can say is use that diagram to check everywhere there could be a fault, It could/should/will be the weirdest thing you can think of and stick at it. It drove me crazy not knowing what was wrong and not knowing if I would make it home in the dark with tail lights! I know nothing about Zeds really, but I would be looking somewhere that has been fiddled with in the past by a previous owner, back of the radio, see if any wires have be cut/soldered/insulated incorrectly. then just work you way back to the fuse box shaking and moving things around until it blows again.

Cheers buddy. I’ve purchased a circuit tester, not the kind that proves a circuit but one that’s a bit more, active. You can use it to detect shorts and apply 12v signals. This should come this week, I’m going to work through each cable off that plug and see what happens. I have a sneaky suspicion (based off the wiring diagram) about one of the cables but we will just have to test.

A bit of a long shot, but I would check some of the internals of those connectors pictured next to the fuses.

The reason I say this is that there is a possibility of some of them getting wet at some point in their lives due to faulty targa drains.

It took me the best part of 2 years to discover one of mine had green corrosion on the inside of the connector itself!

I dismantled mine to find the green verdigre had spread across several internal wires.

 

ps, may be worth checking some of the other connectors further down also.

It’s going to be something really silly like that.

I’ve really got to sit down and work out where each of those pins goes. Ones for the stereo which stopped working ages ago, then power antenna which isn’t in use and the blower, which is what really started things.

A mate popped round today after work and we went through mapping the 12v signals from fuse box female connection M11. Then the same with the harness male. After discovering a 12v supply to earth, dead short with my new tool we then applied live to each 12v connection to see what lit up, in short (no pun intended) none of it. Odd. What we’d found frustrating is that the colour codes on the manual and the fuse box don’t match up. A cup of tea later and he was musing about connecting blocks, I explained that they are all different configurations and can’t be crossed over, so we decided just in case to inspect the fuse box. At this point something became clear terminal block M11 and E106 ARE the same shape. Not getting ahead of ourselves we applied 12v to the pins that correspond and the dash lit up where it should. Putting my big boys pants on and proceeding with caution with this new found evidence I reassembled it all and powered up.

And.....drum roll,

 

 

 

SORTED!

 

So the original fault was quite rightly the aftermarket relay failed and then I assembled the fuse box with two terminals mixed, ones on the front and one on the rear so it’s not a glance the solution issue. Thank Christ for that!

:clap::thumbup1:

Is it possible or even common for these relays to fail intermittently? Can they be purchased new? I think the part number is; 25230-9F900

Still got issues with this. It worked fine for a week or two and now it’s dead again. The whole left pod doesn’t work and near does the mirror switch. There is power at the fuses.

I’ve arranged for another CC pod and module to try but I think the issue is elsewhere.

I’m thinking I need a new fuse box

I’m thinking I need a new fuse box

 

I changed the relay behind the drivers footwell box which solved this issue in mine! Have you tried that?

I changed the relay behind the drivers footwell box which solved this issue in mine! Have you tried that?

 

Yeah, changed both blue ones. When they were faulty there was no 12v feed at the fuses.

The plot thickens.

I got out my little circuit tester today and had a poke around. Applying 12v to the 20a fuse for the wipers activated the pod!

I then removed the pod and with it still attached to the loom applied 12v to the pins. I found the wiper activation cables but no display. The top block did nothing obvious other than apply power to the orange wire illuminated the display orange which promptly failed. I can only assume that the display isn’t 12v and has now failed. Repeating the 12v to the 20a no longer activated the display. So it wasn’t the pod it’s a supply issue and now the pod because I killed the display :lol:

Edited July 21, 20187 yr by Stephen

To clarify.

I have with the ignition on;

12v at the ignition fuse.

0v at the meter, aircon And FR wiper fuses.

Any ideas guys this is getting very annoying.