Hi Guys,

Well its been a while but my beloved zed has been sleeping quietly in the garage underneath an indoor cover,

but unbeknown to me has been rusting without me knowing, really annoyed. ( how its rusted in an indoor garage is puzzling me )

 

first sign is a fuel tank leak, so began the process of removing the rear tank,

 

looking under the rear arch behind the bumper, it has rotted through, this has been repaired before but again has rotted through,

does anyone have any pics or experience with repairing this section?

 

looking under the zed it looks like I will be dropping the subframe and using a product called POR 15

http://www.frost.co.uk/semi-gloss-black-por15-rust-prevention-paint-946ml.html

 

I have sprayed loads of waxoil and stone chip under the arches that did nothing to stop the rust, what is the best way to clean it all off to bare metal so I can do a proper job?

 

any help would be greatly appreciated regarding dropping the rear subframe, and redoing the brake pipes, do these need to be done as

a complete section front to back, or do you join them somewhere, ive tried the search function but I need a little more help with the brake pipes

and hicas pipes that seem to have rotted

 

any help greatly appreciated

When I worked in a body shop we use to use heat an a scrapper to remove underseal before welding

Wow that's really impressive work, how did you manage to strip all the underseal, im looking to do mine too, did you strip it too bear metal?

im thinking of using bilt hamber epoxy mastic.

http://www.bilthamber.com/epoxy-mastic

 

I used a still wire wheel on an angle grinder to get off the old underseal. I took probably 50% back to bare metal where I found surface rust had crept under the old underseal and caused a bit of surface rust. Everything I took back to bare metal I treated with an acid etch primer, everything else where I took it back to the original factory etch primer, then sprayed on a couple of coats of Zinc 182 paint for a bit more protection.

 

 

For underseal I used U-Pol Gravitex, purely on recommendation from friends and people who I know that work in classic restorations. You can also paint ontop of it if you so desire to give it a REALLY clean look.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

**stiff wire wheel**

Quick update on the work so far :)

 

ready to be bonded in

 

bonded in and set

 

so ive decided to drop the subfame also

 

underneath you can see the hicas solenoid and pipework that is rotted hopefully someone has a spare one for me to replace mine

 

rear diff cooler pipework

Edited January 16, 20178 yr by FASTREDZ

I don't know how I'm only seeing this thread now Dewie, I have to commend you on your bravery and skills for undertaking a task like this, I wouldn't know where to start:thumbup:

I don't know how I'm only seeing this thread now Dewie, I have to commend you on your bravery and skills for undertaking a task like this, I wouldn't know where to start:thumbup:

 

Thanks matey :)

it all started out from a bubbling wheel arch and very soon turned into me cutting out every piece of bad rusted steel I could see

now the subframe is out looking to do the brake pipes next

Thanks matey :)

it all started out from a bubbling wheel arch and very soon turned into me cutting out every piece of bad rusted steel I could see

now the subframe is out looking to do the brake pipes next

 

It's always the way. One little job ends up with boxes of parts stripped off and once that cutter comes out...well you know. Your doing well though mate. The brake lines up there are something I missed personally, which I sort of regret but they looked in good order.

Why not delete the Diff oil cooler and maybe even HICAS. Diff cooler esp isn't much use.

Well done for tackling the job take my hat off to you,have you trial fitted the rear bumper yet or did you before welding the arch in ?

Well done for tackling the job take my hat off to you,have you trial fitted the rear bumper yet or did you before welding the arch in ?

 

I took measurements of the rear arch so im kind of crossing fingers it will ft ok, ive only replaced the inner arch

And the box section at the rear of the arch section under the rear bumper,

I still need some bodywork before refitting the rear bumper.

ahh ok fingers crossed it fits fine chap,any reason you cut the arch at the swage line ?,i know its easier to remove less metal but forming an arch line will be harder in filler.Keep the updates coming i hate seeing zeds broken for rust if they are saveable :yes:

ahh ok fingers crossed it fits fine chap,any reason you cut the arch at the swage line ?,i know its easier to remove less metal but forming an arch line will be harder in filler.Keep the updates coming i hate seeing zeds broken for rust if they are saveable :yes:

 

I cut about 15mm from the swage line allowing a bit of an overlap, ive bonded the repair arch back in place and will also

Be welding it too so hopefully no rust will return.

Shockingly all the rust i found was actualy rusting from the inside out.

So after dropping the subframe i have stripped it and had it blasted ready to be coated with por 15

I managed to get a set of rear hubs from banzai breakers that were already poly bushed so thumbs up

 

Diff also cleaned up and coated with por 15

 

Since my subframe is out of the way could anyone help who has replaced all there solid brake lines

Front to rear all mine are corroded so im looking to replace them all in kunifer 3/16

Anyone know how much i need? Im guessing about 30ft probably more

Can i also use kunifer for the fuel ine?

So after dropping the subframe i have stripped it and had it blasted ready to be coated with por 15

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104034[/ATTACH]

I managed to get a set of rear hubs from banzai breakers that were already poly bushed so thumbs up

 

Diff also cleaned up and coated with por 15

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104035[/ATTACH]

 

Since my subframe is out of the way could anyone help who has replaced all there solid brake lines

Front to rear all mine are corroded so im looking to replace them all in kunifer 3/16

Anyone know how much i need? Im guessing about 30ft probably more

Can i also use kunifer for the fuel ine?

 

Looking good. I am a little bit behind you, currently pressing out all the bushes on the rear hub knuckles, tension arms. Hopefully painting my diff this weekend.

 

Then on to the rear brake lines.

 

Pretty sure you cannot use Knufier lines for fuel line though. Perhaps someone else can advise either way?

So after dropping the subframe i have stripped it and had it blasted ready to be coated with por 15

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104034[/ATTACH]

I managed to get a set of rear hubs from banzai breakers that were already poly bushed so thumbs up

 

Diff also cleaned up and coated with por 15

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104035[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

Since my subframe is out of the way could anyone help who has replaced all there solid brake lines

Front to rear all mine are corroded so im looking to replace them all in kunifer 3/16

Anyone know how much i need? Im guessing about 30ft probably more

Can i also use kunifer for the fuel ine?

 

One thing I wish I'd done with mine is cavity wax the frame.

Have you decided what your doing about the diff and sub frame bushes?

One thing I wish I'd done with mine is cavity wax the frame.

Have you decided what your doing about the diff and sub frame bushes?

 

A good point about the waxoil i will defo do that

I have bougt energy suspension subframe and diff bushes

The instructions arent clear about the subframe bushes about the shells

Anyone done these?

 

Bigh thanks for the reply im not sure about the kunifer for fuel i better check

Your right

Can't say for sure as I've got solids (v harsh) the poly I believe you retain the outer race of the stock bearing. There is a write up somewhere I'm sure.

http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=81869

Should help.

http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=81869

Should help.

 

Thanks ill have a good read through

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=81869

Should help.

 

Thanks ill have a good read through

A good point about the waxoil i will defo do that

I have bougt energy suspension subframe and diff bushes

The instructions arent clear about the subframe bushes about the shells

Anyone done these?

 

Bigh thanks for the reply im not sure about the kunifer for fuel i better check

Your right

 

Hi just done these. It very important that you leave the outer shells in the subframe. Otherwise you will need to buy, new shells from CZP, or go with solid bushes. The hardest part is not cutting in to the flange on the lower part of the shell. I have plenty of photos :whistling: drop me a pm if you need anymore help.

Ok so I have done a little more work on the subframe :)

 

The paint I used on the subframe was POR 15 and this stuff so far looks really good stuff, dries rock hard, after the frame was sand blasted, I used

metal prep as per por 15 instructions, then paint on the por 15 gloss black 2 coats, if any of it will get any uv rays you will need to top coat it with something like chassis coat por 15, I used that on my rear arms as I think that might get a little sun

 

the subframe bushes were a challenge for anyone thinking of doing them, there is a shell in there that needs removing but the outer shell needs to stay in.

 

also painted my driveshafts, hubs and rear disk dust guards, I also opted for new zink plated bolts for the subframe seeing as its going well,

 

Ok so I have done a little more work on the subframe :)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104213[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104214[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104215[/ATTACH]

 

The paint I used on the subframe was POR 15 and this stuff so far looks really good stuff, dries rock hard, after the frame was sand blasted, I used

metal prep as per por 15 instructions, then paint on the por 15 gloss black 2 coats, if any of it will get any uv rays you will need to top coat it with something like chassis coat por 15, I used that on my rear arms as I think that might get a little sun

 

the subframe bushes were a challenge for anyone thinking of doing them, there is a shell in there that needs removing but the outer shell needs to stay in.

 

also painted my driveshafts, hubs and rear disk dust guards, I also opted for new zink plated bolts for the subframe seeing as its going well,

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]104216[/ATTACH]

 

I'm sure you've already factored this but your replacement bolts are the correct grade right? Think virtually all of them are 8.8.

I'm sure you've already factored this but your replacement bolts are the correct grade right? Think virtually all of them are 8.8.

 

Hi there, good point there matey i work in engineering so was aware of the bolt gradings,

Yep all new bolts are 8.5

The bolts going though the arms are m12 x 60 1.75 pitch thread, original are a finer pitch 1.25

The nuts holding the subframe i bough are m12 x 1.25 geomet fine thread ones for automotive

The m10 holding the subframe to the car body by the sillls are m10 x 1.25 pitch fine thread

I had to re use the eccentric bolt on the top arm as new ones cost a fortune

I thought you'd have it covered, a lot of people don't realise how these things vary.

I thought you'd have it covered, a lot of people don't realise how these things vary.

 

Quite right matey, its quite shocking to see some of the quality of bolts out there, stainless steel bolts are generally weaker than there steel counter parts, I have decided not to use stainless as this will cause the steel part of the body or chassis to rust even worse as it will react to the stainless bolts when subjected to winter salt spray and water spray.

 

all the bolts I bought were on ebay and were mostly the flanged type bolt looks quite nice and are zinc plated 8.8 bolts.

stainless steel bolts are generally weaker than there steel counter parts

 

Agreed - stainless steel bolts are usually around Grade 2 (ebay junk qty), and in nearly all cases, much less than Grade 5. They

should not be used in any application that requires hardened steel - Grade 5 or Grade 8, or above.

So I have been doing some more work on the zed, I have been attempting to remove all the underseal, wish I hadn't started now what a nightmare to remove,

trying with a heat gun and scraper and then a wire wheel and grinder,