Radiator cross member replacement, day one.

[redwine300]

Well, as many may know, I have recently discovered that my lower radiator cross member has finally succumbed to the dreaded tin worm.

Hopefully, this is day one of my journey to successfully repairing it with a suitable replacement.

Wish me luck, I think I will need it.

 

So, today I started the dismantling of the front end, and within a couple of hours I had removed the front bumper etc'

This was done on the driveway, and I hope to complete the rest of the work in the garage, hopefully.

 

I have reached the point where I am unfamiliar with most of the critical items that now stand in my way, and would seriously appreciate some advice as to how I should proceed.

 

First question/concern that springs to mind is... Can I continue successfully with the car being in the garage?

The last thing I want to do is get half way through the strip down only to find that I do not have the correct access.

The car is drivable at the moment, but once I start taking various parts off she will become immobile.

 

Your help and advise would be very much appreciated.

 

Please see photo's attached...

Edited May 29, 2016 by redwine300

[lymon]

I'd advise to put the car on ramps/stands at the front...makes access to some parts easier.

 

(you will have to drain/remove the radiator, so you will have to get the car up in the air anyway)

 

if it's the first time you are doing this, it may be worthwhile to make pictures during the removal of parts, to help remember the location of parts/cables/wires/hoses/pipes and how it was attached.

Also it's good practice to put as much bolts/nuts (that a part was fixed with) back into it's original location.

..that way you won't loose any nuts/bolts and you won't be left with a pile of bolts at the end that you have no idea where these came from :)

[redwine300]

Thanks Lymon,

 

Your advice is very much appreciated, as always. :thumbup1:

Will I be okay to put my axle stands equally spaced on the steel section crossmember that attaches to the suspension etc'?

I am just a bit nervous about supporting that much weight on the chassis rails.

 

Thanks for the tip with regards to relocating all the nuts and bolts from where they came from, i'll carry that through the disassembly process.

Also, I will make a stage by stage picture diary for reference later.

 

Again, thank you.

[redwine300]

Safe enough?

[redwine300]

Can someone explain the purpose of these 2 radiators please?

I have cracked the top hose of the larger one of the two, and really dark oil is dripping from it.

Edited May 30, 2016 by redwine300

[Alic]

Oil cooler

[redwine300]

Thanks Alic.

 

I am puzzled as to why it is so dark/dirty as my oil is so fresh and shows really clear when viewed from the filler and on the dipstick.

Does it work by way of a temperature controlled valve somehow? ie only comes into use when extreme temperatures are seen.

[lymon]

large one is engine oil cooler...oil flow is pressure regulated

the black oil is normal, even if you have fresh oil in the engine.

 

small one is the cooler for the hydraulic steering/hicas oil

[AndrewG]

I am puzzled as to why it is so dark/dirty as my oil is so fresh and shows really clear when viewed from the filler and on the dipstick.

Does it work by way of a temperature controlled valve somehow? ie only comes into use when extreme temperatures are seen.

 

The oil cooler system works at high rpms (and therefore high enough oil pressure) to drive some of the hot circulating oil to the cooler.

For the most part under "normal" driving conditions the oil cooler isn't fully used.

 

The smaller cooler in front of the oil cooler is your power steering cooler and was only fitted to Euro/UK spec cars.

Edited May 30, 2016 by AndrewG

[redwine300]

Again, thanks Lymon.

 

When you say, pressure regulated, what circumstances would activate the flow of oil through the radiator?

I know it's a little way off, but what do I do when it comes to re assembling? fit back empty?

Here's a picture of the colour, not good.

I would of worried if this had re entered the system.

[redwine300]

The oil cooler system works at high rpms (and therefore high enough oil pressure) to drive some of the hot circulating oil to the cooler.

For the most part under "normal" driving conditions the oil cooler isn't fully used.

 

The smaller cooler in front of the oil cooler is your power steering cooler and was only fitted to Euro/UK spec cars.

 

Thanks Andrew,

 

That helps me understand greatly.

Is there a possibility that the regulator to this may not be working?

It's just that I don't necessarily drive her hard, but would of thought hard enough for the cooler to play it's part?

Something I would like to check whilst everything is accessible.

[AndrewG]

As Eric says it is quite normal for the oil to be that colour, don't worry about it.

[redwine300]

Well, got a bit stuck, so called it a day.

Need to step back and figure my next move.

Here's where I ended up.

[mantav8]

Was going to say you need to let the A/C gas go to remove the Condenser, but I see you already have lol!

Good work BTW!-Rad out ,recircs off a few bits and your about there.

[redwine300]

Was going to say you need to let the A/C gas go to remove the Condenser, but I see you already have lol!

Good work BTW!-Rad out ,recircs off a few bits and your about there.

 

Cheers mate,

 

Having had a closer look, it looks like I will have to take the main rad out so as to access the condenser from the engine bay side.

In the mean time, as you say, the recircs and associated pipework can come out.

[lymon]

with the rad and condensor out you have access to the last few bits and bobs (mainly piping)

Start with the rad (keep towels ready ! :) )

 

Once the rad is out remove the condensor.

In some cases the main/large condensor connector can be oxidized solid

 

 

Sometimes it helps to soak the condensor connector in penetrating oil as much as possible and leave it like that overnight.

If that doesnt help, you will need to cut the aluminum pipe running to the condensor (the yellow lines in the picture) and find yourself another/new condensor

[redwine300]

Thanks again Lymon for your continuing advice, appreciate it.

 

So, hopefully I will drain the main coolant radiator and remove it tomorrow evening.

From there on I should be able to remove he condenser?

I have as you suggested, soaked the connections with penetrating fluid, should be good for tomorrow.

I am looking forward to seeing the cross member and how it is attached to the shell.

[Stephen]

Thanks Andrew,

 

That helps me understand greatly.

Is there a possibility that the regulator to this may not be working?

It's just that I don't necessarily drive her hard, but would of thought hard enough for the cooler to play it's part?

Something I would like to check whilst everything is accessible.

 

I believe it's about 45psi of oil pressure it opens.

[redwine300]

I believe it's about 45psi of oil pressure it opens.

 

That's interesting Steven, my oil pressure hits 90psi when cold, drops to about 15psi when warm.

I need to do some investigating as my oil was changed 18 months ago and is still in very good condition.

Not to dispute previous thoughts, but surely the oil cooler would have activated during that time if this is the case?

 

The last thing I want to do is to do is disrespect previous advice, just want to be sure that the oil system is performing as it should.

[Stephen]

I know it sounds complex but it's not. 100% of engine oil is passed around the block until it reaches +45psi. At this point, where it exceeds 45psi a spring in the oil tree opens up the oil cooler circuit, it's essentially a pressure relief valve. At this point a percentage is sent through the block and a percentage through the cooler back to the pan. There's a 1/18" restriction in the return line that limits the volume of oil, and stops oil pressure dropping excessively.

The stock oil cooler is not thermostatic so runs when cold, cold oil is a higher viscosity, therefore more resistant to flow resulting in higher oil pressure.

The stock system also does nothing at low load when warm. For example at hot idle.

Basically it's quite inefficient. For high performance applications switching to a full flow system, one that cools all the oil that passes through the engine, with a thermostatic sandwich plate, to regulate oil to the optimum tenpreture, is far more preferable. For stock or near stock cars, that see road miles only, the stock system is fine.

 

The oil I. These cars can get dirty quick, esp on higher mileage blocks. Don't forget the FSM recommends oil changes every 3.5k miles. You only have 3L of oil and it gets worked hard in that engine in its cramped bay.

[redwine300]

Thanks Steven,

I'm not sure what to make of it all.

In the last 18 months my zed has only covered 1500 miles max and the oil smells and looks as though it is new.

However, the oil I drained from the cooler is significantly poor in both colour,clarity and smell.

To me it looks just the same as the original oil I drained a year and a half ago.

[nickz32]

If you're that worried about it, you now know it's not a huge deal to remove the oil cooler. Flush it out completely with brake cleaner and an air line and refit it. Make sure you prime the oil system before your next start up and check the oil level before you fire it up (top up as required)

 

Run it for 3.5k miles or whenever you next oil change is. Pull the cooler and inspect the oil. If it's dead clean compared to the oil you drain out of the engine, you've got a check valve issue. If it matches the engine oil, your all good.

[redwine300]

Well, after a 2 hour spell, I managed to get most of the remaining obstacles removed.

This left me a clear sight of the corrosion, depressing.

No turning back now!

[Stephen]

Keep going mate, think how nice it will be all clean and repaired. Take the opertunity to bin the guff.

[redwine300]

Yeah, I know what you mean Steven, it just seems a distant thought at he moment.

Still, l have tackled worse. Well that's what I keep telling myself.