Well, as many may know, I have recently discovered that my lower radiator cross member has finally succumbed to the dreaded tin worm.

Hopefully, this is day one of my journey to successfully repairing it with a suitable replacement.

Wish me luck, I think I will need it.

 

So, today I started the dismantling of the front end, and within a couple of hours I had removed the front bumper etc'

This was done on the driveway, and I hope to complete the rest of the work in the garage, hopefully.

 

I have reached the point where I am unfamiliar with most of the critical items that now stand in my way, and would seriously appreciate some advice as to how I should proceed.

 

First question/concern that springs to mind is... Can I continue successfully with the car being in the garage?

The last thing I want to do is get half way through the strip down only to find that I do not have the correct access.

The car is drivable at the moment, but once I start taking various parts off she will become immobile.

 

Your help and advise would be very much appreciated.

 

Please see photo's attached...

Edited May 29, 20169 yr by redwine300

Cheers mate, love the banter by the way.

 

Made a little more progress this morning, not much mind.

Cleaning everything up the best I can takes an age.

 

How the hell did you get the ac pipes to undo !! seems all the cars i get in they are seized and strip the threads off even with heat !! Be having you down to do all mine soon,nice job by the way fella :thumbup:

I thought the CZP link you put up when you were contemplating buying new was a giveaway regarding the vendor! [emoji13] A real shame that you didn't get anywhere with the claim and also disappointing that Coz hasn't looked after you as I've had all positive dealings with them to date, even when things have gone wrong.

How the hell did you get the ac pipes to undo !! seems all the cars i get in they are seized and strip the threads off even with heat !! Be having you down to do all mine soon,nice job by the way fella :thumbup:

 

From what you say mate, I must have been so lucky, not one difficult connection throughout.

No wonder it wouldn't hold refrigerant.

If the opportunity arose, I would gladly help with yours.

I thought the CZP link you put up when you were contemplating buying new was a giveaway regarding the vendor! [emoji13] A real shame that you didn't get anywhere with the claim and also disappointing that Coz hasn't looked after you as I've had all positive dealings with them to date, even when things have gone wrong.

 

I know what you mean Joel, I was shocked to say the least considering I have been purchasing from Coz for the best part of 10 years.

Gob smacked.

*Phew!*.........saw your post on this thread and thought it had fell off!............:biggrin:

I know what you mean Joel, I was shocked to say the least considering I have been purchasing from Coz for the best part of 10 years.

Gob smacked.

Makes me think twice about who I order parts from now.......

*Phew!*.........saw your post on this thread and thought it had fell off!............:biggrin:

 

F@@king brilliant mate...... :lol::lol::lol:

Makes me think twice about who I order parts from now.......

 

I know what you mean Russ, the last thing I want to do is smear anyone, it's just that after some sound advice I felt it prudent to be open.

I too am left in some doubt as to whether to continuing trading, I guess we are all open to trip ups I suppose.

To err is human....

Having said that though, I will be looking at alternative vendors, maybe worth a sticky list?

I know it must be a sore wound at the moment, but at the end of the day no company is perfect and someone somewhere will always have a bad experience with every company out there. If you've had 10 years of good service from them with only one incident, that's not a bad track record really. I can't say I found CZP overly helpful when I ordered from them, didn't even read my emails properly. Not going to stop me ordering from them in the future though, you can't win them all!

That's true but with this component being a particularly expensive part that was specifically selected as a OEM replacement in an attempt get the best possible quality, I'd be peaved too that not even a small compensation was offered to cover the time/cost of making the component fit for purpose.

Oh yea I'd be furious if it was me. Just trying to say it's maybe not worth the rest of us getting the pitchforks out as most of the time people seem happy with them

Not having driven her much since replacing the front cross member, I decided to take her out for an hour or so just to see if the repair had made any difference.

I can honestly say, that after some spirited driving through some challenging country roads, the front end felt very much improved, it just felt so much more positive.

All of my pulling to the left has gone and under heavy braking virtually all of my wheel wobble has disappeared. ( I think I maybe in need of some new track rod ends.)

I can even feel the change of road camber through the steering wheel instead of her always pulling left.

 

Chuffed to bits to say the least.

Not having driven her much since replacing the front cross member, I decided to take her out for an hour or so just to see if the repair had made any difference.

I can honestly say, that after some spirited driving through some challenging country roads, the front end felt very much improved, it just felt so much more positive.

All of my pulling to the left has gone and under heavy braking virtually all of my wheel wobble has disappeared. ( I think I maybe in need of some new track rod ends.)

I can even feel the change of road camber through the steering wheel instead of her always pulling left.

 

Chuffed to bits to say the least.

 

That's great news mate.

What an epic post! Thank you for linking this to me, it’s given me a boost of confidence for my job (which isn’t in the same league as this). I really liked your first posts, they sounded just like some of mine. :confused1:

 

If it’s ok with you, rather than mess your post up with my questions, I’ll pm you questions I have regarding the strip down.

 

Well done, great job! :thumbup:

What an epic post! Thank you for linking this to me, it’s given me a boost of confidence for my job (which isn’t in the same league as this). I really liked your first posts, they sounded just like some of mine. :confused1:

 

If it’s ok with you, rather than mess your post up with my questions, I’ll pm you questions I have regarding the strip down.

 

Well done, great job! :thumbup:

 

Your questions might help members in the future with similar queries?

Your questions might help members in the future with similar queries?

 

Fair point. :yes:

Well then I have four questions.

 

Is the coolant rad easy to drain, remove, refit and bleed? I looked for a “How to” but couldn’t find one.

 

How did you remove the AC condenser? I loath to do it as it was replaced last year by Jim and it proved to be a real ball ache for him. (Hopefully a lot easier now all the connections have recently been played with)

 

Did you keep the PS cooler in place or did you remove it from the pipe work? If you removed it how did you bleed it?

 

How did you get on with the oil in the oil cooler, did you flush it through and refill before refitting? Was there bleeding issues as you were worried the oil wasn’t circulating?

 

Cheers,

Chris.

It would be great if you could make some how-to’s for these tasks as you go along. [emoji6]

I’d like to but it would be like the blind leading the blind. :closedeyes: I’ll try one and send it to a more experienced member for approval before posting.

What an epic post! Thank you for linking this to me, it’s given me a boost of confidence for my job (which isn’t in the same league as this). I really liked your first posts, they sounded just like some of mine. :confused1:

 

If it’s ok with you, rather than mess your post up with my questions, I’ll pm you questions I have regarding the strip down.

 

Well done, great job! :thumbup:

 

Thanks buddy..

Hey, no worries about messing up my thread.

As Joel has said, it will further go to help other like minded members.

Well then I have four questions.

 

Is the coolant rad easy to drain, remove, refit and bleed? I looked for a “How to” but couldn’t find one.

 

How did you remove the AC condenser? I loath to do it as it was replaced last year by Jim and it proved to be a real ball ache for him. (Hopefully a lot easier now all the connections have recently been played with)

 

Did you keep the PS cooler in place or did you remove it from the pipe work? If you removed it how did you bleed it?

 

How did you get on with the oil in the oil cooler, did you flush it through and refill before refitting? Was there bleeding issues as you were worried the oil wasn’t circulating?

 

Cheers,

Chris.

 

With regards to draining the coolant, it's quite straight forward really.

Firstly, remove the rad cap and then from underneath the car release/unscrew the drain tube.

You may have to remove it altogether as some become blocked.

Job done.

 

As for the condenser, are you sure you need to?

A lot of work for little gain if I recall correctly.

 

The power steering rad I left in place as I was more interested it the crossmember to be honest.

 

As for the oil cooler? I drained and cleaned it out and put the same volume of new oil back in.

 

If you need anything further, do not hesitate to ask.

 

As for the condenser, are you sure you need to?

A lot of work for little gain if I recall correctly.

 

 

I’m looking at removing the condenser to be able to get those pesky metal intake pipes out. If you’re telling me that I shouldn’t need to then that’s great. :thumbup:

I’m looking at removing the condenser to be able to get those pesky metal intake pipes out. If you’re telling me that I shouldn’t need to then that’s great. :thumbup:

 

My memory is a little hazy, as my main aim was to get at the cross member, but I would consider leaving the rad in for the moment.

I think if I recall correctly, to remove the steel pipework completely you will have to remove the front torsion bars so as to allow them to drop down with the rad in place.

Hopefully with the rad in place you will still be able to get to all of those fiddly connections.