Just before going for a quick spin, I thought I would just check a couple of things like exhaust mountings, break lines etc'

Lucky I did, I discovered that my front cross member has collapsed on the front near side due to corrosion!

I cant believe how bad it looks, so gutted to say the least!

Looks like a very difficult job to me, so distraught at the moment.

 

Especially with the Coventry meet just around the corner and my MOT in a months time!

 

I could really do with some experienced advise as to how to approach this one, I am worried that it could be the end of the car.

Please see pictures below, 3 of the near side and 1 of the far side.

Not good but a replacement 2nd hand one should be easy to get and swap out.

Hrm. That's a doozey. It is a piece in its own right but iirc it's spot welded in. Looking at what you've got there the corrosion looks quite significant. I think it would be faster and probably mandatory to acquire that section from another shell and fit it. Getting to it very may well take longer than replacing it.

I think Pete has replaced one of these before.

Phone Guy on 07721 014 097

 

He's the guy that Jeff used to use

If your worried about the longevity of a second hand part, you can still get this cross member new from the states

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-75210-40p60-lower-radiator-core-support-twin-turbo-tt-nissan-300zx-z32_p_6853.php

Hi Redwine300, Sorry to see this mate...... all the time you put into her..... Have you tried BAZ?

Also NemesizX is breaking a Z.... he might have a good one?

Mate, get a new one!-lot less hassle to fit and will outlast the car!-Allan would fit it for you if you didn't feel up to it mate.

Thanks for the suggestions and support guys, I certainly needed a bit of inspiration.

As I see it, considering everything that has been said, my best option is to replace as opposed to repair.

I will have to give things some serious thought as to whether I tackle this one myself, or to put this in the hands of someone more experienced.

 

With regards to this.. (thanks for the link by the way Nickz32)

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-75210-40p60-lower-radiator-core-support-twin-turbo-tt-nissan-300zx-z32_p_6853.php

Will this be OK for a UK model? seriously considering it.

 

Again guy, thanks for all of you help and support.

I feel somewhat more confidant that she can be saved.

As you say Russ, I have put so much work in to give up now.

 

Thanks all, keep the ideas/support coming, appreciate it.

Oh you can defiantly save her from that. It's just a case of time.

Thanks for the suggestions and support guys, I certainly needed a bit of inspiration.

As I see it, considering everything that has been said, my best option is to replace as opposed to repair.

I will have to give things some serious thought as to whether I tackle this one myself, or to put this in the hands of someone more experienced.

 

With regards to this.. (thanks for the link by the way Nickz32)

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-75210-40p60-lower-radiator-core-support-twin-turbo-tt-nissan-300zx-z32_p_6853.php

Will this be OK for a UK model? seriously considering it.

 

Again guy, thanks for all of you help and support.

I feel somewhat more confidant that she can be saved.

As you say Russ, I have put so much work in to give up now.

 

Thanks all, keep the ideas/support coming, appreciate it.

 

New cross member 2 days tops......

:thumbup1:

I'm guessing if presented with a car with the front already stripped down, bumper off etc that the labour bill would fall drastically?

Phone Guy on 07721 014 097

 

He's the guy that Jeff used to use

 

Defo give Guy a call, he has done many of the very repair you need and does it in place, replacement is a cut out and weld in new which labour cost is huge let alone £400 for the member and two wing ends.

Jeff

Red, I'm breaking a tt auto and the cross member is in good condition.. I'll be cutting the car in half at some point so,if you want to bring a grinder and cut the section out that you need, you're welcome to it mate.. Gimme a drink and it's yours..

Red, I'm breaking a tt auto and the cross member is in good condition.. I'll be cutting the car in half at some point so,if you want to bring a grinder and cut the section out that you need, you're welcome to it mate.. Gimme a drink and it's yours..

Capri-sun sound good?

Capri-sun sound good?

 

As long as it's topped up with vodka..

Red, I'm breaking a tt auto and the cross member is in good condition.. I'll be cutting the car in half at some point so,if you want to bring a grinder and cut the section out that you need, you're welcome to it mate.. Gimme a drink and it's yours..

 

Thanks for the offer NemesizX, very much appreciated, just a bit undecided as to which way to go to be honest.

 

Thanks to everyone to date for the help and good advice, I'm am just struggling to decide which way to go.

 

One question does spring to mind though, would this part be interchangeable throughout the models?

Or are there variations? I'm worried I may end up with the wrong part.

The only difference I think is between na and tt due to the rad mount locations. But easily moved.

The only difference I think is between na and tt due to the rad mount locations. But easily moved.

 

Thanks mate, sounds promising.

Red, the cross member on the breaker I have is in very good condition mate, it's probably cos it's been coated in oil half its life by the looks of it!

Seriously mate, come and take this one and see if it helps you out. I'd like to see it go to helping keep another Z alive red. You can have it free of charge.. It's at least worth taking it to see if it can help and all it'll cost you is a little work to take this one off. Theres no engine in this car so you won't have any trouble getting access to it. The wings and front bumper are also off so basically you're looking straight at the bit you need..

I've got a grinder and some thin cutting discs here so don't ponder over it mate, the bit you need is right here..

It's yours mate, give your Z the bit she needs..

The other good thing is I have a wire wheel and a tin of hammerite aswell. Anything remotely brown can be removed and protected instantly mate..

I'm 40 minutes down the m1 from you.. Junction 11. So should I get the kettle on Sunday morning or what?

The other good thing is I have a wire wheel and a tin of hammerite aswell. Anything remotely brown can be removed and protected instantly mate..

I'm 40 minutes down the m1 from you.. Junction 11. So should I get the kettle on Sunday morning or what?

 

Mate, that sounds great.

My only problem is that I am committed to taking my daughter out this weekend as it is the bank holiday.

What about the following weekend?

Red, that's perfectly cool with me.. The cars not even half stripped of the parts yet, so it's not gonna be going anywhere for a while.. If anyone can show me exactly what needs to be salvaged for red, let me know and if I get the chance to do it before hand, I'll cut the bugger off for him myself..

Red, that's perfectly cool with me.. The cars not even half stripped of the parts yet, so it's not gonna be going anywhere for a while.. If anyone can show me exactly what needs to be salvaged for red, let me know and if I get the chance to do it before hand, I'll cut the bugger off for him myself..

 

Thanks mate, really appreciate it.

We will tie up a weekend that suits you and the car.

I am happy to have a go at cutting the item out myself, just not very familiar with that area of the shell.

I will do some homework in the mean time.

 

As you say, can anyone help us with pictures of the area without things in the way please?

Not only will it help the removal of the section, it will help me get an idea of what I might be letting myself in for.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/60775-new-to-forum-here-are-some-pics-of-my-track-300zx-project/

 

http://forums.nicoclub.com/horrible-day-for-my-z-t585384.html

If you hell bent on changing it then be prepared to remove a lot of kit, one I did about 10 years ago:

 

Jeff

 

Old damaged one cut out surfaces cleaned and new one refitted welded in place.