I'm looking to delete the HICAS on my TT 2+2, and comments on pro's con's, I have been advised I will need to delete to fit 18" 9.5's on the rear, and comments / advise will be appreciated.

 

Any one with any comments on the HICAS eliminator from Driftworks.

 

http://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-total-hicas-eliminator-kit-for-nissan.html

some like hicas some dont. i didnt like it and removed mine, for normal every day driving it was ok but i drive a little harder and didnt like the feel of the rear end when it was doing its thing. glad its gone

Any one with any comments on the HICAS eliminator from Driftworks, excellent bit of kit removes all of the wear out of the system, cut the feed pipe at the pump end and feed back into the resevoir.

 

Jeff

I have it. It's a pretty good bit of kit in my book, far more robust than the thin stock arms. What is good about this kit in relation to others is its complete. By this I mean you don't need to use parts of the stock system, most of the kits still use the old arms and ball joints, 9/10 times the reason people remove it all, is a fault with the arms or ball joints. You could replace them but two ball joints are almost the cost of the driftworks kit...

I chose to utilise the banjo fitting from the solenoid that is the low pressure return line. Bolted this to the pump and fed a line from the pump back to the pot. Nice and tidy, no cutting or funny joins etc.

Not being able to fit 18x9.5" wheels on the rear with HICAS installed is incorrect. It very much depends on the offsets of the wheels you're fitting, you could have clearance issues with 18x8" wheels of the wrong offset.

 

If your HICAS system is serviceable (generally an MOT tester will pick upon worn joints or leakages) and you don't dislike the way it works, then keep it. If at some point in the future, you get issues with the components and a big bill looks imminent, the option to then replace with the driftworks lock out kit would be worth considering.

 

Personally, I have no issues with the HICAS, I like what it does, I have 9.5" wide wheels and I will continue to repair it as required. If you must lock it out, I agree that the driftworks kit is the best kit to use for reasons mentioned above [emoji106]

You could replace them but two ball joints are almost the cost of the driftworks kit...

 

You can buy both hicas ball joints and drumsticks for under 70 quid delivered if you buy from the right sellers. ;)

Also, in my opinion the best way to remove the hicas is to fit an na subframe, again, less money than a new lockout kit.

You can buy both hicas ball joints and drumsticks for under 70 quid delivered if you buy from the right sellers. ;)

 

For OEM items?

Also, in my opinion the best way to remove the hicas is to fit an na subframe, again, less money than a new lockout kit.

 

Debatable. The shortening of the gears isn't always an upgrade. Also yeah you can buy it cheap, but it's still a 20-25 year set up.

For OEM items?

No, but OEM quality. No different than buying OEM spec track rod ends, lower ball joints, etc. Most traders sell the exact same parts, but double the price, making out they're rare. And near enough every part of a car is extortionate if you buy from a dealership, just depends if you can find something the same quality or not.

There is nothing actually wrong with my HICAS, however the main issue is large wheels ET 30, 9.5 wide 18" I been told will hit the HICAS bar. Anything detrimental in removal of HICAS? From the comments above appear it is probably a good route.

There is nothing actually wrong with my HICAS, however the main issue is large wheels ET 30, 9.5 wide 18" I been told will hit the HICAS bar. Anything detrimental in removal of HICAS? From the comments above appear it is probably a good route.

If there's nothing wrong with it and you're happy, leave it on.

There is nothing actually wrong with my HICAS, however the main issue is large wheels ET 30, 9.5 wide 18" I been told will hit the HICAS bar. Anything detrimental in removal of HICAS? From the comments above appear it is probably a good route.

 

Never had an issue with fitment, my Z has had 4 sets of wheels on it, current ones are 19x10. I think you'll have issues with smaller wheels with increased widths. 17 X 10 would likely cause issue at fitment offset, but 18s, unless they're chunky heavy poorly designed mono-blocks will fit.

i need to remove my hicas the rear hydraulic ram has started to leak, do the rear hubs need modification to fit the drift works poly bushes in place of the ball joints?

i need to remove my hicas the rear hydraulic ram has started to leak, do the rear hubs need modification to fit the drift works poly bushes in place of the ball joints?

 

I made a write up years ago on this site about fitting the DW hicas kit have a search. Mines been on numerous track days and I have et20 9.5 inch wheels front and back with 265 width front and rear.

Personally in my book it was more cost effective for me to do the n/a rear subframe swap. On the hicas my bushes were dying and it didn't feel like a good unit... the back end would squirm everything I went over a bump :S. Much better now :D

Personally in my book it was more cost effective for me to do the n/a rear subframe swap. On the hicas my bushes were dying and it didn't feel like a good unit... the back end would squirm everything I went over a bump :S. Much better now :D

 

Locking collars are a good alternative to changing the subframe bushes and can be fitted literally in 30 minutes, they tighten up worn bushes and keep them located correctly when cornering etc. inexpensive and quick.......... ebay.

 

Jeff

 

A second for locking collars, I picked up a set for less than £20 on eBay and they made a great difference

 

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

I have locking collars too, whilst I will do a full subframe rebuilt at some point, the locking collars worked a treat.