On the back of tomfrom the north thread about somthing else.he mentioned about he has a warm up procedure before he puts he foot down.if in the mood of course. Me , i always start the car..have a little walk around.check.once a week check oil and water.then buy the time im bettled up music on shades.etc cars being running five mins already. Then its a slow drive for a couple miles. And yes i wont boot it untill the temps up were it should, and all is settled down.and to be ohnest i hardly boot it anyway.is the warmed up propley when the temp reads norm.or is that to soon.

Just drive it sensibly for 5 to 10 minutes. You don't need to sit it still first, I heard tat can do more harm than good. Just take it easy and don't go boosting it till it's warmed up. Doesn't take that long in these cars. My old Capri used to take about 20 minutes to warm up.

dont thrash it for 5>10 mins or up to temp really

 

and the same for cooling it down .. no need for stupid turbo timers .. u know where u live just drive the car sensibly for the last mile or 2 before home ..

 

switch off ... get out .. look at your car and think ....

etc cars being running five mins already.

 

WORST thing you can possibly do!!!! Starting a car from cold and leaving it to idle does the engine absolutely NO favours whatsoever! There is no oil at the top end of the engine, nothing is circulating up there as the oil is highly viscous. Metal against metal....and no amount of Castrol Magnatec will make it a good thing. You need to get in it and drive it. The engine needs load for the oil to increase in temperature at a rate suitable enough not to cause prolonged damage, leaving it to idle from cold will not bring the oil up to temperature quickly enough.

 

So to ANYONE out there and I've seen from here that people do, never ever leave your car idling from cold....especially those that don't use their car for long periods. Don't periodically start the car and leave it to tick over once a month until warm thinking you're doing the car some good. If you're not going to drive it, leave the damn thing OFF! You're introducing condensation into EVERYTHING, from the engine internals to the connectors, to the exhaust system, not to mention the unnecessary wear and the car always being on 'cold-start' which is effectively pumping more fuel into the engine. If you're storing your car all winter or for a long period of time, don't switch on the engine unless you have to.

 

As for general warm up, I get in my Z straight away, drive it off boost and at lower revs until the oil pressure has dropped to normal operating levels, generally after 5-10 minutes of light driving. It's pretty much ready then. Perversely, never rev it hard from cold either. Gentle driving, so Alan, you're part way there at least! ;)

 

I totally agree with Mark on turbo timers. Drive off boost for the last few miles of your journey, circulating coolant and air around the engine to effectively cool the oil naturally is a far better and quicker way than leaving your car to idle for 10 minutes. I've never really seen the point of turbo timers. They take the common sense out of motoring.

Ref to the oil thing.i do that.i never fak the car home the last few miles.just drive off boist as well.also what somthing that i always have done.no matter what car im in or had. Esspecaly this time of year.a couple miles from home i start turning eveything of like the heating.up the windows the strerio just to give the battery a little extra help. As for the start up ive always done that on faster cars/ sports cars that i dont use eveyday. Dont take long to go round and kick four tyres.maybe i should do that first a. And like simon says if you dont use your car for any given time then dont start it.my mother in law goes to india sux months of the year.and once a month we just drive round to her house get her keys and go out werever were going in her car for the day.to hive it a run.shes never come home to a flat batt or anything.

Get a good quality oil temp gauge, that is the most important thing when it come to "warming" up the car to normal running temps.

 

You will be surpirsed to compare a water temps gauge to an oil temps gauge, the oil takes a lot longer to heat up.

Get a good quality oil temp gauge, that is the most important thing when it come to "warming" up the car to normal running temps.

 

You will be surpirsed to compare a water temps gauge to an oil temps gauge, the oil takes a lot longer to heat up.

 

Oil pressure gauge is just as good as oil temp gauge, I use the stock one and always go by that (rather than coolant), even though it's not as accurate as an AM one. Oil pressure only drops when the oil becomes less viscous and reaches peak operating temperatures. But yeah, correct. Due to the density of oil, it takes about twice as long to come up to temperature as the coolant does.

 

Coolant temperature should really only be used to see if the car is getting too hot....its only other value would be if it stayed too cool requiring that you replace the thermostat.

Edited October 24, 201411 yr by Funkysi

Don't warm it up it will do that itself when your driving it :)

there's a lot of cars that spool their small turbo's up straight away these days, so just drive it mate, just don't go mad until the oils thinned down a bit (pressure gauge :))

Just drive it sensibly for 5 to 10 minutes. You don't need to sit it still first, I heard tat can do more harm than good. Just take it easy and don't go boosting it till it's warmed up. Doesn't take that long in these cars. My old Capri used to take about 20 minutes to warm up.

 

Yup - just like in any other performance car really....

 

....Get in, start the engine and move off. Leaving it to idle until warm is bad for any engine long term; drive off right away and don't give it the beans until coolant is up to temp and oil pressure has dropped to normal running levels.

Edited October 24, 201411 yr by RichardS

dont thrash it for 5>10 mins or up to temp really

 

and the same for cooling it down .. no need for stupid turbo timers .. u know where u live just drive the car sensibly for the last mile or 2 before home ..

 

switch off ... get out .. look at your car and think ....

 

So what if you've been driving hard on the motorway and pull into the services ?

 

That,s where a turbo timer helps

So what if you've been driving hard on the motorway and pull into the services ?

 

That,s where a turbo timer helps

 

Well the services are indicated quite a while back! lol For that ONE instance where you need to come to a blinding halt after ragging it down the motorway.....:lol:

Erm... Leave it idling for a minute?

 

Besides, driving hard on the motorway is very naughty. Unless you're confused and have left it in 2nd, of course :laugh:

So what if you've been driving hard on the motorway and pull into the services ?

 

That,s where a turbo timer helps

Where you driving hard .so you could get to the petrol station quicker, beford you ran out .maybe

Where you driving hard .so you could get to the petrol station quicker, beford you ran out .maybe

 

Ask yourself that again slowly, how do you get more MPG for the petrol running out scenario? OR do the pumps close at a certain time on the motorway service station?

WORST thing you can possibly do!!!! Starting a car from cold and leaving it to idle does the engine absolutely NO favours whatsoever! There is no oil at the top end of the engine, nothing is circulating up there as the oil is highly viscous. Metal against metal....and no amount of Castrol Magnatec will make it a good thing. You need to get in it and drive it. The engine needs load for the oil to increase in temperature at a rate suitable enough not to cause prolonged damage, leaving it to idle from cold will not bring the oil up to temperature quickly enough.

 

So to ANYONE out there and I've seen from here that people do, never ever leave your car idling from cold....especially those that don't use their car for long periods. Don't periodically start the car and leave it to tick over once a month until warm thinking you're doing the car some good. If you're not going to drive it, leave the damn thing OFF! You're introducing condensation into EVERYTHING, from the engine internals to the connectors, to the exhaust system, not to mention the unnecessary wear and the car always being on 'cold-start' which is effectively pumping more fuel into the engine. If you're storing your car all winter or for a long period of time, don't switch on the engine unless you have to.

 

As for general warm up, I get in my Z straight away, drive it off boost and at lower revs until the oil pressure has dropped to normal operating levels, generally after 5-10 minutes of light driving. It's pretty much ready then. Perversely, never rev it hard from cold either. Gentle driving, so Alan, you're part way there at least! ;)

 

I totally agree with Mark on turbo timers. Drive off boost for the last few miles of your journey, circulating coolant and air around the engine to effectively cool the oil naturally is a far better and quicker way than leaving your car to idle for 10 minutes. I've never really seen the point of turbo timers. They take the common sense out of motoring.

 

I gather you have not run a zed motor with no cam covers:rofl:...in actuall fact it has MORE oil up there as on a cold engine the pressure is a lot higher and sump return slower:)

Be nice if the engine didn't start so quickly, I sometimes feel it fires up so quick there isn't enough oil up there yet clickety clackety liter tick.

Unfortunately, I believe 90% of all engine wear occurs from a cold start.

All one can do is make sure that the oil is of good grade and in tip top condition.

So long as the engine is set up correctly, things should be fine to just get in and drive.

I think the general conscientious is to drive conservatively until up to temperature and then only use maximum RPM for very short periods of time.

Also, I think the ECU will keep you in safety boost until at least 50+ degrees just to be on the safe side.

I gather you have not run a zed motor with no cam covers:rofl:...in actuall fact it has MORE oil up there as on a cold engine the pressure is a lot higher and sump return slower:)

 

The oil is only at higher pressure because it's cold. All the oil drains out when it's not running and it takes a lot longer to flow correctly as its resistance to pour is much higher.

 

I have run a car with no cam covers on it from cold....not a Z though! Not sure how you would either unless you put the fannymould on before the rocker covers....now that would just be silly! :rofl:

The oil is only at higher pressure because it's cold. All the oil drains out when it's not running and it takes a lot longer to flow correctly as its resistance to pour is much higher.

 

I have run a car with no cam covers on it from cold....not a Z though! Not sure how you would either unless you put the fannymould on before the rocker covers....now that would just be silly! :rofl:

 

As soon as you have oil pressure you have bearing protection...my understanding is of letting a car hang around on cold idle is prenounced bore damage due to very rich fueling and thus the rings scrapping from bore wash.Its not lack of oil doing the damage its the cold start or wet fueling.Get the hot engine fueling asap is the seceret to happy cylinders..Also ive run a zed motor on a stand and other interesting shop stuff in the name of d1cking about,no more workshop vids these days though as there are too many eyes via google for my liking;)

As soon as you have oil pressure you have bearing protection...my understanding is of letting a car hang around on cold idle is prenounced bore damage due to very rich fueling and thus the rings scrapping from bore wash.Its not lack of oil doing the damage its the cold start or wet fueling.Get the hot engine fueling asap is the seceret to happy cylinders..Also ive run a zed motor on a stand and other interesting shop stuff in the name of d1cking about,no more workshop vids these days though as there are too many eyes via google for my liking;)

 

That's it in a nut-shell.....

 

....And not just for a 300zx but for any car - a ZX is certainly no different in that respect; so don't kid yourselves that a 300zx should be treated differently!! Use a good quality oil of the right viscosity, IE one that will not only maintain its integrity at high temperatures - but one that will actually circulate quickly enough from cold (no higher than a 10w). Get in, start engine, move off. Simples:wink:

You get oil pressure instantly. The pressure switch/sensor is buried right down in the engine block and thick oil will be surrounding it giving a higher indicated 'pressure' due to its increased resistance to pour.

 

All the oil galleries to the top of the engine will be devoid of oil and cold oil will not flow as well as hot oil....not to mention the fact that the oil's lubrication properties are at max once the oil is up to temp. It makes less of a change with fully synthetic as it's viscosity is more linear.

 

It might not make a huge difference, but you will have better oil flow to the top of the engine once the oil is hot and circulating. This is the same with any car.

 

:)

Edited October 25, 201411 yr by Funkysi

Bore wash from cold start fuelling isn't much of an issue on UK ECUs as the O2 sensors are operational from 25°C as opposed to 50°C on JDM ECUs.

 

Cold start fuelling is a 16x1 table of enrichment values decreasing as temp increases. AFR is typically 12.5:1 on immediate startup, just a bit leaner than a car on maximum load.

Ask yourself that again slowly, how do you get more MPG for the petrol running out scenario? OR do the pumps close at a certain time on the motorway service station?

 

It was a joke

It was a joke

 

:winkiss:

You get oil pressure instantly. The pressure switch/sensor is buried right down in the engine block and thick oil will be surrounding it giving a higher indicated 'pressure' due to its increased resistance to pour.

 

All the oil galleries to the top of the engine will be devoid of oil and cold oil will not flow as well as hot oil....not to mention the fact that the oil's lubrication properties are at max once the oil is up to temp. It makes less of a change with fully synthetic as it's viscosity is more linear.

 

It might not make a huge difference, but you will have better oil flow to the top of the engine once the oil is hot and circulating. This is the same with any car.

 

:)

 

:lol::lol:I can see you have personly rebuilt many engines Simon...i really need to put this to bed but i have a feeling you want the last word,here goes anyway. As you know in the oil filter housing there is a ball check valve to stop all the oil above draining from the top end. Every head ive took off and believe me its plenty, zed and none zed when turned upside down it fills the bench with oil and thats without draining the lifters Every Crankshaft ive lifted from a block there a river of oil still in the oil feed lines thats above the crank not below infact theres so much oil thats still left in blocks its a pain in the arse to clean out before it goes for its bore work then into the bath. All an engines oil DOES NOT all drain to the sump when parked over night and the damaging effects of long idle time on a cold engine imho and i stress imho is not oil related. Diesel engines can do 250,000 miles and still have intact bores when stripped as there fuel is oil....big Air compresser pumps from a cold start instantly run at max revs in a nano second with no problems due to lack of oil and run for 30 years plus every day,yea i strip and service these too for bread money;) I really believe the 1st 5 minutes from a cold start on a petrol engine when you dont get proper and full combustion untill hot and the cylinders are swamped with oil washing petrol are really bad.

Edited October 26, 201411 yr by znut

Bore wash from cold start fuelling isn't much of an issue on UK ECUs as the O2 sensors are operational from 25°C as opposed to 50°C on JDM ECUs.

 

Cold start fuelling is a 16x1 table of enrichment values decreasing as temp increases. AFR is typically 12.5:1 on immediate startup, just a bit leaner than a car on maximum load.

 

We must factor in the very poor combustion of fuel when an engines cold too Noel with regards to excessive bore wash.