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After finishing replacing my stereo and CD player, I thought I would go for a quick spin.

After a couple of miles I noticed that my temperature was slightly up! (the cars that is, not mine. lol)

so headed home. When I pulled up onto the drive I was horrified to find steam billowing out from under the bonnet.

It was coming from the drivers side of the engine at the back and was coming up from below the brake fluid reservoir.

Any ideas as for the likely cause??

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As above alternatively throttle water pipes or turbo water lines. If your still running the 20 year old water pipes crack on and change the lot, I bet they are brittle and rotten.

Yey what a lovely job to change. Mine cost £16 each from mike but that was a few years ago

I know how you feel, mate. My 1992 TT bought 1 mth ago has done that twice already!! 1st time was the rad, today it was at the rear/top engine bay. it waited until halfords/eurocarparts etc were all closed before splitting. had to temp fix with rubber patch and hoseclip as I was lucky i had enough hose to cut down to the split.

We appear to have the same decision to make....change out the whole bloody lot as we'll never really feel comfortable knowing another can go at any time, anywhere...

But at £16. each??:censored:

I know how you feel, mate. My 1992 TT bought 1 mth ago has done that twice already!! 1st time was the rad, today it was at the rear/top engine bay. it waited until halfords/eurocarparts etc were all closed before splitting. had to temp fix with rubber patch and hoseclip as I was lucky i had enough hose to cut down to the split.

We appear to have the same decision to make....change out the whole bloody lot as we'll never really feel comfortable knowing another can go at any time, anywhere...

But at £16. each??:censored:

  • Author

Thanks guys,

It seems as though it could be 1 of a number of pipes that could have let go then.

I guess that I will just have to work my way down from the top and see how it goes, checking each hose/connection 1 by 1

I am hoping it will be a quick fix for now as I was hoping to go to JAE this year, (weather permitting) after that the car will be SORN for the winter.

Then, bit by bit It makes sense to swap all the old hoses for new I guess.

 

As you say winnoze, until we change the lot, we will not feel that confident that another will not let go just when we least expect it.

I was lucky this time being close to home. (maybe the Z is trying to tell me something?)

 

Spanners out then. I will post pictures later if people are interested.

  • Author

Thanks guys,

It seems as though it could be 1 of a number of pipes that could have let go then.

I guess that I will just have to work my way down from the top and see how it goes, checking each hose/connection 1 by 1

I am hoping it will be a quick fix for now as I was hoping to go to JAE this year, (weather permitting) after that the car will be SORN for the winter.

Then, bit by bit It makes sense to swap all the old hoses for new I guess.

 

As you say winnoze, until we change the lot, we will not feel that confident that another will not let go just when we least expect it.

I was lucky this time being close to home. (maybe the Z is trying to tell me something?)

 

Spanners out then. I will post pictures later if people are interested.

I know how you feel, mate. My 1992 TT bought 1 mth ago has done that twice already!! 1st time was the rad, today it was at the rear/top engine bay. it waited until halfords/eurocarparts etc were all closed before splitting. had to temp fix with rubber patch and hoseclip as I was lucky i had enough hose to cut down to the split.

We appear to have the same decision to make....change out the whole bloody lot as we'll never really feel comfortable knowing another can go at any time, anywhere...

But at £16. each??:censored:

 

The heater hoses at the rear are quite expensive but necessary as they are a premolars shape. The turbo coolant lines good quality water hose will be fine, brought by the meter. Throttle body coolant pipes can be bypassed. So it's merely the heater matrix, main rad pipes and two little hoses that hide behind the top water pipe on the front of the engine. The rest is simple cheap stuff. Have a chat with sfs mention your from here and you will be laughing. Take the oppertunity to change your stat and flush the coolant system, including the rad. This will make excellent headway and prevent the impending my engines overheaded and died thread.

I know how you feel, mate. My 1992 TT bought 1 mth ago has done that twice already!! 1st time was the rad, today it was at the rear/top engine bay. it waited until halfords/eurocarparts etc were all closed before splitting. had to temp fix with rubber patch and hoseclip as I was lucky i had enough hose to cut down to the split.

We appear to have the same decision to make....change out the whole bloody lot as we'll never really feel comfortable knowing another can go at any time, anywhere...

But at £16. each??:censored:

 

The heater hoses at the rear are quite expensive but necessary as they are a premolars shape. The turbo coolant lines good quality water hose will be fine, brought by the meter. Throttle body coolant pipes can be bypassed. So it's merely the heater matrix, main rad pipes and two little hoses that hide behind the top water pipe on the front of the engine. The rest is simple cheap stuff. Have a chat with sfs mention your from here and you will be laughing. Take the oppertunity to change your stat and flush the coolant system, including the rad. This will make excellent headway and prevent the impending my engines overheaded and died thread.

We do the 2 heater and 2 front pipes as a kit, the 8mm for bypass can be bought by the metre. These are fit and forget, there are prices in our section on here, 25% member discount!

We do the 2 heater and 2 front pipes as a kit, the 8mm for bypass can be bought by the metre. These are fit and forget, there are prices in our section on here, 25% member discount!

  • Author
The heater hoses at the rear are quite expensive but necessary as they are a premolars shape. The turbo coolant lines good quality water hose will be fine, brought by the meter. Throttle body coolant pipes can be bypassed. So it's merely the heater matrix, main rad pipes and two little hoses that hide behind the top water pipe on the front of the engine. The rest is simple cheap stuff. Have a chat with sfs mention your from here and you will be laughing. Take the opportunity to change your stat and flush the coolant system, including the rad. This will make excellent headway and prevent the impending my engines overheated and died thread.

 

Cheers z32bolt!

 

I will follow your advice over the winter months, cheers mate!

 

After an hour or so, I think I have tracked down the culprit!

 

Not 100% sure, but I think these must be the 2 pipes supplying cooling to the turbo as Mark eluded to earlier.

 

If so, I am hoping that I may be able to cut it back slightly and re fit for now. I will take it off though and check it all over just to be sure.

 

I will add photo's in a mo.

Edited by redwine300

  • Author
The heater hoses at the rear are quite expensive but necessary as they are a premolars shape. The turbo coolant lines good quality water hose will be fine, brought by the meter. Throttle body coolant pipes can be bypassed. So it's merely the heater matrix, main rad pipes and two little hoses that hide behind the top water pipe on the front of the engine. The rest is simple cheap stuff. Have a chat with sfs mention your from here and you will be laughing. Take the opportunity to change your stat and flush the coolant system, including the rad. This will make excellent headway and prevent the impending my engines overheated and died thread.

 

Cheers z32bolt!

 

I will follow your advice over the winter months, cheers mate!

 

After an hour or so, I think I have tracked down the culprit!

 

Not 100% sure, but I think these must be the 2 pipes supplying cooling to the turbo as Mark eluded to earlier.

 

If so, I am hoping that I may be able to cut it back slightly and re fit for now. I will take it off though and check it all over just to be sure.

 

I will add photo's in a mo.

water leak 1.jpg

water leak 2.jpg

Edited by redwine300

  • Author

Well several layers of skin later and still no joy!!

 

How the hell am I supposed to get the rear spring clip off??????

 

All this grief for a relatively inexpensive piece of rubber!!

  • Author

Well several layers of skin later and still no joy!!

 

How the hell am I supposed to get the rear spring clip off??????

 

All this grief for a relatively inexpensive piece of rubber!!

  • Author

It's OFF!!

mind you, I did have to cut it close to the clip so as to allow me to get my curved long nosed pliers in.

Also had to remove a couple of more bits so as to gain access.

 

Although it is in 2 pieces now, you can still see the splits.

  • Author

It's OFF!!

mind you, I did have to cut it close to the clip so as to allow me to get my curved long nosed pliers in.

Also had to remove a couple of more bits so as to gain access.

 

Although it is in 2 pieces now, you can still see the splits.

split pipe 1.jpg

split pipe 2.jpg

As above alternatively throttle water pipes or turbo water lines. If your still running the 20 year old water pipes crack on and change the lot, I bet they are brittle and rotten.

 

Ahem.....

As above alternatively throttle water pipes or turbo water lines. If your still running the 20 year old water pipes crack on and change the lot, I bet they are brittle and rotten.

 

Ahem.....

Pop to machine mart and get yourself the pack of 3 12" needle nose pliers. There's so useful for this kind of thing. Check what it connects to and if possible replace the whole section...if it split once...see what I'm saying?

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