I thought the problem was the switch as if you waggled it a lot it would sometimes work, but unfortunately fittting a replacement did not fix the problem

 

When you push the switch to 'close' you can hear what sounds like a relay click in the door - obviously the window is fully closed already

 

When you push to open you don't hear anyything at all

 

Is there a known common problem that causes for this? I ask as the drivers window on my old Z was temperamental too

 

Rich

I literally had this issue yesterday,

On mine I get relay click for both up and down however the motor wouldn't activate.

Turned out to be the plug into the relay, something somewhere has gotten loose as when i squeeze the plug lightly into the relay it activates the motor no problem, so the relay output has continuity issues, I'm going to have a go at tightening the individual connectors at some point today.

 

Have a look, hopefully its as simple as mine :)

 

Cheers

Alex

Is the relay what I can hear clicking behind the door panel? Or is there just an actuator/motor there?

Have you checked the black box behind the drivers door card, believe it's a known fault,

 

Paul

Take the door card off Rich and there is a black box that looks like a large relay as been stated above...change the bugger and all will be good again in your life:wink:

Have you checked the black box behind the drivers door card, believe it's a known fault,

 

Paul

Think I may have a spare taken from my old n/a somewhere

Guys, I fixed it :wink:

 

As this seems to be a common problem I thought I would share my experience with you

 

Once I got the door panel off (pretty easy, about half a dozen screws/bolts and a couple of clips on the bottom edge I found that large black relay rattling around inside hte door (actually I did have an annoying rattle on the door)

 

Pushing on the connector made no difference, but tipping the relay up on end made it work, as did shaking it about a bit with the window button held down

 

Figuring it was a bad connection somewhere I took it apart

 

It's pretty easy, on the end with the connections the plastic cover clips off with a bit of effort with a small screwdriver (clips on the two shortest sides)

 

Inside it is a PCB with some components and a couple of relays

 

The problem was a broken solder joint on one of the relays (the relay nearest the end of the PCB controls window down and the other one window up)

 

Actually it makes sense that dry/fractured solder joints would be around the heaviest components - ie. the relays

 

Anyway here are a few pics of my control unit, this is the bad joint I found. If you look closely you will see a circular fracture all around the relay leg where it meets the solder pad.

 

I resoldered all the eight relay joints to be sure though. It now works absolutely sweet

 

When you put it all back together the PCB slides into two grooves inside the plastic casing whhich hold it firm, then you push the end cap back on over the connector pins

 

Voila - working drivers window!!

I bet 99% of these boxes thrown in the bin over the years had this dry joint or joints:wacko:

Hee hee, good fix Rich, I was going to say drive with it up then, the entire content of my electrical knowledge.....lmao.....:lol::lol::lol::lol:

I bet 99% of these boxes thrown in the bin over the years had this dry joint or joints:wacko:

 

Yup - most likely Bri...... Very common problem indeed:wink:

Common. There is another write up somewhere. If you do get into trouble, I know this sounds harsh but if you give the door panel a little knock as to say in the area of the black box your window will work again. Got told off Jeff the other week when my window got stuck down. One little hit and boom! Up it went lol

Yes also I can confirm, thumping against the door panel did used to fix the problem of the window not going down, till eventually it got so bad it would harldy work at all

 

Well hopefully no more of these controllers will be in the bin from now on. It's a pretty easy fix if you have a soldering iron and now you know what a fractured solder joint looks like

 

Otherwise anymore of these broken window controllers just give me a shout and I will see what I can do

 

Rich

PS - I used a cable tie to fasten mine to the door frame now, and as it does not rattle about inside the door panel anymore it probably will not fail again either

Edited August 7, 201312 yr by dicky96

 

Oh just to mention mine did not have the metal bracket - so I cable tied it to the inner door

this is a old prob as already said fix previously posted by jeff (zedworld) many many months ago search engine is a good thing

Probably then I should have looked for that old thread, instead of looking for fractured solder joints and posting up the pics when I found them lol I guess it's very hard to find anything useful about these cars that has not already been found :mellow:

 

On a positive note though - if all this stuff is already known, why can't we have a repository of useful fixes and acquired knowledge all indexed alphabetically under electrical, brakes, turbos etc etc etc save having to reinvent the wheel..... so to speak

 

Rich