has anyone removed there abs?:confused: i`ve got a 91 uk tt manual:hyper: and the abs has never worked as it should from day 1

thought maybe a convetional braking system might work better

do the NA models not have ABS?

I've removed mine completely and have a Master Cylinder from an NA(non-ABS model) and run new brake lines

be sure to tell ya insrance company if you remove as it will void the insurance if ya dont

be sure to tell ya insrance company if you remove as it will void the insurance if ya dont

 

very doubt it would be noticed by the loss assesor

cheers lads i think i`m going to take it out.engine is out so might be a good time to attack it.i`m on traders insurance anyway so least they know the better

There's been many a debate on this.....

 

......and for what it's worth; my personal opinion is don't!

 

ABS is such a vital safety feature an any car - so much so that most new cars come with it as standard.

 

However good a driver you are, you simply cannot "cadence" brake quicker than an ABS system can operate. Get your brakes fixed to work properly; refurb the calipers, fit new discs and pads, then change the fluid. You will notice the difference....

 

Richard

There's been many a debate on this.....

 

......and for what it's worth; my personal opinion is don't!

 

ABS is such a vital safety feature an any car - so much so that most new cars come with it as standard.

 

However good a driver you are, you simply cannot "cadence" brake quicker than an ABS system can operate. Get your brakes fixed to work properly; refurb the calipers, fit new discs and pads, then change the fluid. You will notice the difference....

 

Richard

 

agree 110%

I completely agree with the last three posts 10000 % I have raced and driven most fast road cars in my time and, on the road, there is no better option than a well setup ABS system. This is a (relatively) heavy powerful car - sooner or later you will need to emergency stop it and you cannot cadence brake as fast as an ABS system can - SIMPLES!!!!!

 

If all you are doing is using the car on track days then you can go for a high temperature - high wear setup that will stop you on a penny but that is completely impracticle for road use - you simply won't be generating the brake temperature to make it work properly. Hence the need for ABS.

 

Get your ABS working properly and fit some Mintex or Greenstuff pads along with some grooved or dimpled rotors - you will stop like a brick wall and won't regret it.

i`ve now decided to leave the abs in the car i`m going to overhall the full system while its off the road over winter and fit the skyline brakes i`ve got from my mates damaged car

i`ve now decided to leave the abs in the car i`m going to overhall the full system while its off the road over winter and fit the skyline brakes i`ve got from my mates damaged car

 

good man thats the best choice :bow:

Well done guys - you probably saved a life ;-))

Good decision Milly.

I've removed mine completely and have a Master Cylinder from an NA(non-ABS model) and run new brake lines

 

Yet another old thread raised from the dead but I'm looking at options for the best way to delete the ABS in order to plumb in my hydro (and pulling the fuse/putting ABS on a switch is not an option).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I can't find any technical info on the layout of the ABS (piping at this point ^^^^^) on a SWB TT, there are no markings/indications on it.

 

In order to ensure that the hydro and ABS don't fight against each other, I'm looking at connecting the hard lines and running a T piece 'pre' rear connection pipe with a brake bias at the mid way point.

 

 

 

 

The statement above about swapping the TT master cylinder for an NA master cylinder confused me slightly, would this be necessary (just going by the fact that the 'S' body ABS can be removed simply by connecting the pipework)?

 

If anybody has a diagram indicating which pipe is which, that would be very useful

Edited May 18, 201213 yr by jap.slapper

i don`t have abs on my jap tt g reg :)

I would think that you could change your BMC to a standard four output one (BM44) and then run lines from the four outputs on it to each calliper. This is how the non-ABS zeds work. With ABS the BMC has two outputs (front and rear) both go to the ABS unit and from there they go to each calliper.

 

I don't know for sure but I would think that if you just t piece the brakes together you may cause them lock up in pairs..

 

EDIT: Sorry hadn't seen the pics or read your post properly.lol

Look at the online manual mate, you want Section 13 BR. Tells you everything you need to know about ABS/Non ABS brakes including where the lines run.

Edited May 18, 201213 yr by Steams

i don`t have abs on my jap tt g reg :)

 

no way and your still alive how is this possible :lol::lol:

I would think that you could change your BMC to a standard four output one (BM44) and then run lines from the four outputs on it to each calliper. This is how the non-ABS zeds work. With ABS the BMC has two outputs (front and rear) both go to the ABS unit and from there they go to each calliper.

 

I don't know for sure but I would think that if you just t piece the brakes together you may cause them lock up in pairs..

 

EDIT: Sorry hadn't seen the pics or read your post properly.lol

Look at the online manual mate, you want Section 13 BR. Tells you everything you need to know about ABS/Non ABS brakes including where the lines run.

 

 

 

 

Cheers mate, yeah the ABS unit shown in the diagram is the same as the old one that I've got in the garage off my old LWB TT. The ABS unit on the shortie is different and the pipework locations are different. I'll work it out I'm sur ebut maybe the NA master cylinder would be the other option