General Discussions - 300ZX Related

I've been meaning to ask this for ages...the mad japanese bloke that had my car made 2 patches to the wiring.. one connecting the HICAS solnoid to the ECU and one from a black box(?) to a connector in passenger compartment. If you know your 300s like the back of your hand, could you have a look at these pics and see if you can work out what the hell he was up to: http://www.sarahalexander.co.uk/300zx.htm be warned.. the pics are big, so page is about 2.5Megs, so make a cup of tea while it loads :-) stu

I also noticed this weekend that two of the shocks on my Z are beginning to leak....haven't noticed any difference yet though! Has anyone got a set of tokico shocks on there car? Where did you get them from? Are they any good? Any recommendations for different ones. I won't be doing any track days, so adjustables arn't an option...gotta keep the price down to save for the go faster mods! ;) cheers.

Some of you replied to my earlier post about the lack of rear fog lights on Jap Z's. I'm now thinking about getting some of the brake lamps re wired. Has anyone done this themselves? Any info would be much appreciated! cheers, Ben. (ben_wagg@hotmail.com)

Right... thanks to lymon, I have been poking around trying to fix the thing, but still with no joy. Does anyone know exactly what tubes/pressure sensor it is under the bonnet. I realise it's one of the things on the offside.. quite why taking the battery off affected this I have no idea, as battery is on other side, but there ya go. As I said in previous message, it's sort of stuck at -2 or so...is that what everyone elses stays on when the engine is off ? Assuming it is, there are 2 things it could be it seems to me: 1) the hoses have come off/got blocked/etc... unlikely I'd have thought as it's worked fine for last 2 years since it last stopped working..…

where can i get some of the original jap ones and i need contacts and if so are there better ones to put in the car? sorry but im to lazy to look back in the posts lol

Hi Last night some little F*****r tried to break in to my 300. He managed to fuck all the manual holes for the keys, although it still locks and unlocks with my alarm remote. I now can't get any keys in either door or my boot. Whats the likely cost to replace and will I be able to get a original Z key to replace. As for my alarm I think I'll get a new one as this one didn't go off until it was to late, but at least they didn't get away with the car! Regards JW

HI all, Good news:- On my Z is I have cured my CODE 34 problem. Tried the 1meg ohm resistor thing which did not work. But on further investigation and handy use of my Radio Shack multitester discovered that my det-sensor was not connected to the det-sensor ECU wiring. I located a nearby connector which was the same but connected to which I think is the Left Exhaust Gas sensor as the wire it was connected to had a white heat shield over it. Did some meter tests and found this connected matched what it should be for a ECU det sensor wire. Swapped round connectors and voila now get CODE 55 all ok. For extra confirmation on the Henri Le Hir page for det se…

thanks andy, throttle bodies cleaned this friday before embarking down to southend now the revs sit at a perfect speed 900rpm no lumpy idle at all. thanks once again Andy......"T"..

Hi, Having just spent an hour working out what has happened to my boot release it appears that the cable has snapped between the petrol filler release mechanism and the operator lever by the seat. Is this cable a one piece item that goes to the filler release and then onto the boot release or is it in two pieces, also anyone have an idea of cost. As a side issue I now have a designer piece of orange nylon cord in the boot that you have to pull to release the filler cap. Cheers

Smitty on the Isle of Man, Johnny said you could possibly help with an ECU upgrade for my 1998 TT. Is possible? Bill

Just a few more points for those considering the Traction Controll GB. 1. Johnny asked us to make sure everyone who is buying has ABS on there car - i know that TT's were not sold without ABS but i think NA's were in Japan - i have seen some NA calipers that are a lot different to the TT ones and im sure they weren't ABS - Anyway if you find this to be true you can still purchase the kit but you will need the ABS sensor that can be procured for 150.00 from johnny on top of the price of the kit. 2. If you are running or thinking about running a WET Nitrous Injection then TC is not a Good idea - Dry Kits will be fine but WET kits ' Could' seriously compromise you…

Does the lack of rear fog light on my jap Z affect my next MOT? Some people think yes, some no. Any ideas? If it does then I was thinking about getting a uk spec rear bumper and then just wiring the fog lamp in.

I'm looking to finally sort something out with my brakes as the stopping power at the moment is frightning! I have Tarox 12 grooved discs with metal pads. I'm going to change the brake lines to stainless steel and want to flush out the brake fluid. What I what to know is what dot fluid would work best. I think looking at previous posts that I'm best going for dot 4, but would like some opinions. Cheers Vijay

Hi I want the clips that sit either side of the lenses on the jap spec fog lights. Prefer to just purchase clips but willing to pay for fog lamp units as long as clips attached. Please see http://64.35.61.175/nissan300zxb.jpg for pic. Contact Martin on 07881 602000 or martin@farrin.co.uk Cheers

Not a major issue this one. trying to get all the minor niggles sorted on my Z, anyone know where I can get a replacenment dash clock from. i've heard from you guys before that its a common fault so a bit wary of getting one from a breakers. Any other clocks fit/work ? PS Hope the Brighton meet today went well. Bit peed orff as i only live 10 miles north of Brighton, but had other 'pressing' arranagements .... Glenn.

Guys, thanks to lymon, I reckon I know what happened to cause my radiator leak: 1) high temp fan did not come on 2) water started to boil, but radiator cap faulty, so didn't release pressure 3) radiator burst with pressure According to the warranty I have for the car, it covers every mechanical part (except for wear and tear). I've already had the water pump repaired under this (they wouldn't pay nissans 45/h..only 35, but still paid for the majority of it). I reckon this should be a valid repair too. What do you think ? 1) electrical system fault (fan) 2) mechanical fault (pressure valve of cap). Anyway, onto the next thing... My offside tu…

to any of you that are interested, in a previous post i was asking what oil everyone used...as the oil in my z was mobil 1 motorsport and at the time i was getting a rattle at about 2500 rpm that would not go away before changing the oil there was no rattle, basically do not use mobil 1 motorsport as this oil is shit? it is too thick......15/50 .....i have since changed this oil for valvoline 5/50 and this has made the engine purr.... so quite you would not believe the difference....so if you thinking of using mobil 1 motorsport...DON'T.........

does any one know, or is there any one in the forum with ride height adj suspension. can you get them from within the uk. who makes them for the 300 tt and how much approx.

Performance exhaust for 300zx na coupe, am also interested in other performance parts for sale.

ive got no rear lights no side lights no interior lights and my full beam is stuck on permenently. My horn fuse also keeps on blowing. Ive checked all fuses but cant find the in-line fuse for the sidelights. Any help much appreciated. Thanx

My poor little yoko avss need refurbished thanks to my dad 'doing me a favour' and washing my car at xmas... using washing up liquid. http://www.btinternet.com/~powerlord/car.html Basically ripped off all the polish on the wheels (outsides are just pure polished machined ali). First I knew was a week later, when I cleaned the car again.. 1 week of salt and brake dust and they're ruined. So need a good refurbishment place. I've had a word with: http://www.alloywheelrefurbishers.co.uk/ Pristine. They have a local dealer, so I can leave the car with them, and Pristine seem like they'd do a bit more than the 'acid bath and powder coat' shite most pla…

Right, also.. according to the manual the radiator should onlt need filling if the overflow is empty. Can I assume this is unless the radiator has a hole in it ? As the radiator is half empty (that'll be the hole), but there is still water in the overflow.....

Front offside... sqeaks all the time whenever it moves. This is probably bad, but thought I'd check, just in case there's a simple cure.

The fan in front of the radiator (i.e. front of car between small cooler (oil cooler ?) and first big radiator (intercooler??)). Is that supposed to be on all the time ? Just noticed while I was looking for the radiator leak, that only the back one (nearest engine) is spinning. I'm wondering if it's this that has caused the overheating/boiling of water and pressure increase that has caused the radiator leak in the first place ? Again, I seem to have a relay for it, but can't see a fuse.

This happened a few years ago.. thing sort of got stuck.. it's just a little below the middle. The turbos are still working.. I can hear/feel them fine. Last time it was intermittant, and I the NISSAN dealer 'fixed' it for 80 quid !!. Anyway, was working until today, when I've been working on the car (radiator leak), and had the battery disconnected. Since reconnecting, it's stuck. I've tried disconnecting (doesn't move) and reconnecting with no success. I don't know if there is a fuse for this (my in cabin fuse box is all in japanese, but all fuses look ok). Any ideas ?