General Discussions - 300ZX Related

where do i get this glycol - the pink stuff is it non corrosive ??

Why don't my blowers work? When I put the heating on auto and econ and set the temperature to around 30-40 the car heats up but it all seems to be coming from the vent at the front below the windscreen. If I change it to the windscreen heater option on the control panel I hear a little change in "blower sound" and still comes out the same vent as it should. None of the other vents seem to blow any hot/cold air. The car warms up quite quickly though still. Any ideas?

In my search for tyres I have come accross http://www.tyretraders.com/carclub.aspx To be honest they have the best prices I could find for Falken 452's, and they are fitted in the bargain. Just thought i'd share the link. I was wondering if a representative from the club could contact them. Maybe they are willing to offer a club discount, seeing as they have a car club page?

1) Brembo plain fronts £148.00 2) Brembo plain rears £125.00 3) Goodridge hose kit £58.00 Zinc fittings £66.00 Stainless fittings 4) Ferodo DS2500 fronts £117.50 5) Ferodo DS2500 rears £117 Are the above prices quite expensive? Where can I get them cheaper?

Heres the link regarding boost jets :- http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/boostJets/boostJets.html also run a search, theres quite a bit of info on what and what not to do, ie set it up with a quality boost gauge and an aftermarket chip

Can anyone provide me with the thickness measurement of the center bearing spacers for a manual tt. Alternatively, can anyone say for sure that manual & auto are the same thickness. I have just done an auto to manual conversion and am having prop vibration problems. I have checked all the usual and re used bearing and gearbox mount from my auto which was perfect with no problems. I get my prop back in the morning from being balanced but having read through some previous threads, it appears that the angle of the front and rear u/v joints need to be the same. The manual prop is longer at the front than the auto so if I use my auto spacers, surely this will affect t…

After many many months of swearing, sleepless nights, and being broke most of the time i finally started my car for first time. I waisted two batteries until i crank it up and that because the Crank Angle Sensor was on the wrong position. I broke the pin that alligns the CAS with the cam few months back and i put it there temporarily but i forgot all about it. Was cranking it up for many minutes and didnt want to start. It was so frustrating because after all this job done to the car you feel so hopeless and dont know where to start. I sit down for few minutes trying to relux and think why is not starting up. Then it came to my mind that it might be the CAS. I took i…

Just got a great deal on a battery so I thought I would share!! Nissan recomend 52amps 390 cold cranking! Halfords £80 for an average battery Motorist Discount Centre £87 Exide 030TE 75amps 630 cold cranking amps Kwikfit Utter crap batteries according to them!! Found a place called - MERITYRE (Branches in the South East) £52.88 Exide 030TE 75amps 630 cold cranking amps - STONKING BATTERY!! Oh yes, It also come with a 4 year guarantee!! Almost a £34 saving over Motorist Discount centre who are supposed to be cheap! Here are some piccy's! Andy

I wondered if anyone could help with a quick question. Which pipes do i block off the ones that look like their going back to the engine or the ones that are behind the headlights.. Thanks

Having removed my autobox as it was knackered i decided to do the tubs also, having read all the advice about having to take the engine out i thought this was unnecessary. Got the n/s one off ok and the drivers one looks not too bad if i remove the steering linkage but my advice is pull the engine, as its going to be a b*****d to get the new ones back on. So i'm a little downhearted as the nearside turbo was perfect and didn't need renewal and the offside one is smoking badly and i was told the seals had gone. Is it always best to do both rather than just the one. I suppose this saves having to remove the engine again if the other goes but is there anyone who has just re…

:headvswal right guys need nelp - my matrix has not been bypassed and is not leaking but i still get no heat from blowers - car temp seems to be ok / normal temp gauge always sits about half way or there abouts and the added gauge never goes above 100c have changed switch pod twice so not that and im lost ??? ive noticed that the added water gauge jumps sometimes will go from 40c to 80c in one big jump - not sure if gauge is faulty or this is normal have a new one in post anyway so will se soon please help cheers guys :headvswal

How does it work ? I have a Jspec TT with kph/mph convertor, do I have the speed on Datascan set to kph or mph. Also when doing the timed run do I start the timer then gun it or does the timer start as soon as it senses you have moved ? CheerZ Paul.

Right i have been thinking about De-swaggin the zed and want do this myself to keep cost of body shop down, I know that i've got to sand the paint work right down to the metal on the metal pannals. But on the bumpers??? do i need a surtain type of filler to fill the lines. and on the dimpeled area is spray filler the best way to do this or is there a spiecal type of spray filler needed as well thanks graeme

It's a lovely sunny day, and I think I might have talked myself into keeping my Zed and fixing up its little 'issues' before sorting its big issue, which is what I might end up selling outside Sainsbury's if I carry on too far! :rolleyes: When I fitted my DVD player, the memory wouldn't retain on the DVD clock/setting etc... On my mate's advice, I swapped over the yellow and red wires but this cocked it right up. The DVD player just switched on then off again, and now my interior lights don't work, the alarm thinks the doors are open, the Zed's clock has gone off and the drivers side door makes a whirring noise when I try and turn the interior lights on. …

MY PASSENGER SIDE TARGA SEAL IS LEAKIN PRETTY BAD IS THERE ANY WAY OF SORTING THIS WITHOUT REPLACING COS MY SEAT IS STARTING TO GROW MOULD ON IT HA HA. :smash:

6 Days after I got my zed in january somebody hit the car and dented the rear quarter while it was parked at my dads work (was visiting him). The repair is about 900 + vat. Here is the snag though the other persons insurance company want to write it off, beacuse the car is a 1990 and they think it isn't worth it. any advice on what I should do next as I don't particularly want them to write it off unless they are going to give me market value for it and since I just looked on autotrader and on here a tidy JDM TT manual seems to be about £4K. Thanks in advance

I know this has probably been discussed a few times before so im sorry before anybody has a go lol i cant find a definite answer in my owners manual so i thought i would ask here, i was thinkin maybe 10w-30 or 10w-40? anybody got a preference?

Hi there, I have put my NA up for sale on autotrader, fancy a TT now. I am getting lots of people from overseas saying they will send bankers drafts, and get a shipping agency to pick the car up after the funds have cleared. Are these people trying to scam me? Anyone had anything like this in the past, when they were selling? Thanks

Any idea? its all the one wheel, the other 3 are ok, just need a normal refurb! Just wondering if anyone has had some work done like this? and how much it cost. Still cant find a company that can do this sort of work... but im working on it!

well its probably common knowledge my leather seats in the zed was in awful nic, colour faded etc, bought a 5quid bottle of black leather dye and painted the dye on, it now looks like new, cant believe how well it looks, ill take some pics tomorrow so easy to do and dries within a few hrs

how much roughly does this cost. whats involved etc?

Well had my z (manual) chipped the other day, about 50 + bhp, I used to get 17 - 20 miles to £10 driving normal, now i get between 9 and 12 driving normal, seems a bit excessive to me...... anyone ??

Hi guys and girls, Thats it i've finally had enough :headvswal , i can't be bothered with this car any more. My left hand turbo has begun to smoke, a few months ago i would have thought whoo hoo! i've got a good excuse to lift the engine but now i'm totally p155ed off the whole thing, for the 15 or so months i've had it its been of the road for about 4or5, its not the work thats bothered me its the money and now i'm skint :cry: . Its a uk manual with a large 130k on the clock. What should i do know, sell it as it is? break it? or just take out my frustration with a hammer :smash: ???? please advise, thanks dave

My car was imported and has some Bilstein lowered suspension on it. The kit isn't dampening or ride height adjustable. The actual quality of the ride is quite nice (not too stiff for the roads but a lot firmer than what the std suspension would be like). I think the front seems very low. This is also down to the aftermarket front bumper. The 17" wheels also seem to scrub the wheel arch liners occasionally when on full lock. I have not yet attempted to go over any speed bumps as of yet but id imagine it would catch as the front bumper seems to catch pretty easily on things like driving up my drive if I take it at a certain angle. I don't see any point…

Been offered a very very nice set of 19" alloys and tyres for an unmissable price. Only problem is the wheels are 9.5 x 19" all round. So basically will 9.5 fit on the front or am i being stupid. thanks