Steve-o

for 500 i'd source some brembos ;)

Well couldnt be ****ed to cook today, so I opted for a nice goodfellas takeaway style funky chicken pizza! Missus put it in the fridge instead of freezer, DOH!!! cook from frozen only. Oh well this is how it turned out from refrigirated.... Tried it in a tray but it just wouldnt cook, but was too floppy to go on the shelf, so, we had to put it on the shelf in the end. Half of it fell through the grate and proceeded to bake itself to the bottom of our oven

Personally a fooking brill Idea for me, my Z is a daily drive. But I only drive about 10 miles a day!!! and sometimes it sits still for days while I cycle etc. What are your thoughts? I'll prolly be giving it a go. I guess you will be charged X amount per mile based on the value / risk of your car??

Frontal, frontal lmao

I could easily cook stuff on it mate, honest they are roasting. Like Jay said, you cant touch the mesh its so hot!

' Thats what I said lol, for Private (as in private sales) jap imports AND uk cars that are hanging lol ;) But now you mentioned that point, good nick UK's always fetch that little bit more as most insurance co's will charge more and don't like them and fact its an import with non-checkable history outside the UK (it cant be proved) does put a lot of people off when buying. You look at any import car scoobies and a like etc etc, imports are always cheaper, thats y ppl buy em!

Oh all based on TT btw ;)

I would say spot on for a dealer selling an A1 condition standard car. (low milage imaculate etc etc) For private jap imports and uk cars that are hanging, more like; 91 £2650 92 £3000 93 £3500 94 £3850 95 £4250 96 £5000 Then there are the nicely moded ones that have a few probs; 91 £4000 92 £4500 93 £4750 94 £4950 95 £5000 96 £6000 Then the minters; 91 £6000 92 £7000 93 £7000 94 £7500 95 £7500 96 £8000 Then the mingers: all £2500 with exception to the bloke that sees them going for 6-7k and thinks he can get away with charging the same!!!

You need some self control man, I can handle about 3-4 months and then I just need to get it back on the road again.

Also meshing and cutting the IC vents

how did you guess? Yup only on one side tho, kinda like the ones on the bmw z roadster

Oil pressure? is it looking a little low? have you had an oil leaks around or under the car? could be low pressure not letting enough oil to get in the turbo. Otherwise only thing I can think of is bits of your engine (normal wear stuff!) getting in the oil way and blocking the tube, or just some general crap in the oil causing a oil way to block a little. Good luck finding the prob mate!

Goona do some mods to the bumper over the next few days too ;) hope it comes out alright!

Most nissan garages are shite, the mechanics there have probably worked on 1 Z in the past x amount of years. Second they are rip off merchants, they charge by the hour and thats ok working on a micra, but when it comes to the Z they are laughing. Especially seing as half the twats dont have a clue and it will all take longer. As greg says the O2 sensors should flux between about .3 and .7 held at 2k rpm on the conzult. I would personaly check all the connectors as mentioned above like the PTU, CAS, TPS, and check all the coil pack connectors on top. Remove em, clean em and replace, like wise with these other sensors. You sure its fuel? leave the car ticking over for a while and use your hand to smell the banks, see if ones smells richer than the other. The whole gear box changing issue sounds odd, sounds naff advice but may be worth leaving the bat off overnight to reset everything. Missing could well be coilpacks I would say, also is it more noticeable when the car is cold, or when its been wet?

We decided to take some power tools to my bonnet! With the help of Jay I think we did a pretty good job ;)

Hahahahaha, the funny thing is we did!!! I'll start another thread tho mate..... ;)

Hi guys, Recently looking around at getting a new phone, and all I can say is don't go by what the sales guy tells you! I was told a load of shit about the features on the phone, all the things they said it is capable of but you have to buy all the extras, get this! To listen to the FM radio you have to BUY the FM Radio headset, to listen to MP3's, you have to buy another SEPERATE headset. Etc etc, all shit really. Anyways, so what phone have you got / had and think is good? Just to stop ppl on the forum from buying shit ones!!! Rate em out of 10 id say! Ill kick it off; 7210 Nokia 5/10 - Not a bad phone, small, lightweight, supports colour pics, no camera built it, but are cheap now and usefull as a spare phone. Thats what I've got one for! Had it for well over a year and not one problem with it! The ringtones are like 3 channel polyphonic so are really really shit. K700i sony ericson 10/10 - fookin brill 45mb of internal memory! MP3 player built in, video phone, camera phone pretty good res as far as phones go, built in White LED on the back for taking picks at night too! You can link it blue tooth to the PC and customize everything! All folders displayed within the phone, so there is nothing you cant change! Motorola V80 3/10 - IMHO crap. If you encode vids in 3gp it dont support AAC sound :S, so you will have a shit of a job trying to encode stuff decently. Its only got wait for it.....5mb internal memory!! and its got mp3 support so thats like 1 mp3 fills the phone how pants. The camera has no flash/light, the pics come out blurry and not v good quality at all. Its pretty bulky. The only 'Novelty' thing is the fact its got theses lights that flash around the outside all diff colours to sound. With blue tooth, you cant customize fook all, motorola have taken it upon themselfs to lock all of the original pics, 40 crap ringtones etc on the phone so you cant remove any of it. And you can only trsf pics, vids and sounds by pc. They locked the other folders so you actually have to 'PAY' for any apps games etc. True shite.

Yeh i think posting on here is the result of having not much else to do tho :( Got quite a bit to do but just nothing I fancy lol. Hmmm, gonna start a new thread lol got an idea.

lol, PTU and coilpacks are a ****er. I was contemplating an engine rebuild when I get me new tubbies done, thought id lost a couple of cylinders and worked out to be two coilpacks loose :rolleyes:

Man I would but just bought 4 new uns, close to 700 quid :( Cant afford to shred em yet, sold me stock rims as well, new i should have kept em!!

....

Cool! Ill give that a go ;) And chunk pearl necklace, your just filthy mate lol

This gives you a basic idea of what I did, the shape of the bracket which was made with painted black strong steel (from the back of the wheel). I did it this way because I didnt want more than one whole drilled in the S/wheel. Just took a little grinding / filing and shapping of the steel to make the bracket and a bit of drilling. For anyone who wants to know about the Hicas etc as i've been asked a fair few times; The Red Circle shows the disk under the s/wheel. Its a plastic disk and is exactly the same layout as it was under the stock. Attached to the disk which rotates with the boss on the S/wheel (to sense movement) is a plastic lug on the bottom of the disk, this is supposed to move as mentioned with the boss so the disk rotates and senses the movement of the wheel. I modified a standard Z31 boss which I got for 25.00. The way I did it was by marking where the lug would need to go on the new boss, then first drilling with a pillar drill a hole to start. Then grinding and filing out the whole to the correct shape. Also on the top of the disk that rotates is a plastic block conector for the controlls to the cruise unit. I did the same sort of thing with this. The result was that the boss slid over the lug and connector and would allow them to move with the new boss much in the way the old wheel did. However, the new boss is meant to be fitted without this disk etc in place, and so doesnt slide down enough on the shaft enough to pass onto the spline and make it safe to use, also the boss will just push against the plastic disk and so that wont work either! So the next part was to grind down the rear of the boss so that its more of a V shape at the back, and so will fit further on in the centre than the sides. However you need to make sure you've got enough material to work with, as otherwise you will weaken it too much to be of any use. After grinding and shapping it, I then bolted and through the kind use of a friends workshop welded three metal supports on the back of the boss to support it from the weaker edges. TBH, the welding probably wasnt needed but I wanted to do a propper job on it, it was already more then adequate enough with the extra supports bolted in place (it would take all of my weight 14 1/4 stone and we couldnt even distort the frame in a vice!!) The result was, it slid down on the spline perfect, bolted on with the existing nut, and misses the disk by about 1mm. All works fine. New wheel on, and you just plug the block connector back on which gives you the live feed to the horn, and the wires to the cruise control. As the original mechanism is still in place, it all rotates perfectly with the wheel so you dont have to feck around changing any of it!! Not to everyones taste maybe, sounds like a pain in the ass, but using a couple of odd bits of steel (im sure everyone has some lying around in the garage / shed) and a couple of tools, it took probably two to three hours to do, is mint, I retained all the features of the standard wheel and saved 125.00. Cheers Steve

This is a crap image as i've broken the lense on me camera and had to remove it so it cant focus :S, but anyways you get the idea. IMHO it looks ok