Joely P

Absolutely every last detail of mine is submitted, no mater how small or insignificant and whether visible or not, a lot of the stuff they’re really not interested in! I have a word document that lists every modification or alteration to the car that I email to the insurer at quote stage, they then submit that to the underwriter for review. With Lancaster it made zero difference to the policy cost, the only thing that affects the price is the final power output.

That’s a very good price. I’ve just renewed mine with Lancaster Insurance but I couldn’t get below £200 this year, many of the other companies quotes had gone up considerably. I’ll add the to my list of insurers to keep Lancaster on their toes!

Yep suits me too, it’s now in my calendar, lock it down!

Just don’t wipe your feet on the mat! I’ll be the one busy trying to mop up dust and wipe off fingerprints!

Look forward to meeting you matey [emoji41]

The 473 step super mega detail and NEC prep is well underway with the Z but having been shot a curve ball, today led me to some unscheduled repair work of (probably) my least favourite removal/installation job on a Z32; the door handle!

Along with some self amalgamating tape for the coolant hoses and a bottle of coke for our clutches (Lemans style)!

I’m after the little plastic lock barrel ring (that can be illuminated on JDM cars). Discolouration is fine, as long as it’s in one piece. The clear JDM rings sit under a black plastic spacer and are not handed driver or passenger side, however UK cars have a black plastic ring that is one assembly and are handed (thank you Funkysi for the effectivity info [emoji41] ). I will be happy with either a clear JDM ring from any side or a black UK ring from the driver’s door handle. Can anyone help with this please? The ring mount to the door handle as shown in this pic: And when removed looks like the lower one in this pic:

Yes, I use it for a few different applications - the 2 main uses being; 1 to seal damage to composite panels such as damaged fairing that might let moisture in as a temporary repair. If a composite panel gets moisture inside, it freezes in the -55c during cruise and will cause further damage. And 2, if I replace something that requires an aerodynamic seal to be applied but the 24 hour cure time affects operations (for example a #1 flight deck window change), I put the high speed tape over the top to allow the sealant to cure during operation. And homers.

Simon is correct, nothing fancy just some aluminium foil adhesive tape, this stuff to be exact: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Aluminum-Foil-Tape-425?N=5002385+3293241744&rt=rud

Not so good if it’s gale force winds but in a heavy rainstorm I get out and wash the cars as it’s like a free filtered wash! Saves time on the requirement to dry them to avoid water marks. My neighbours are like, dude it’s pissing it down!

Me too. Maybe it varies across the domestic markets? I have a series 2 UK brochure here but that has changed to AJ4 Flame Red (which is what my car was before I changed it to red!).

This club needs a bone stock minter!

You should’ve dug out all of those posts quickly before you snapped it!

Drunken double vision on a phone app:

The blue one looks like it’s worth a look. Otherwise call off the search, that car being imported by the clubs official importer has your name all over it!

And a lovely condition Nissan Primera as the teaser [emoji106]

You are genuinely considering cutting a hole in the A pillar to attach the targa drain hose? [emoji27]

L495 NUD looks ok. The front and rear bumpers are from a UK car, so as it’s an import I’d instantly pay attention to impact zones (which you would anyway). It’s certainly had some paint as that side on shot shows a mismatch of paint shade between the door and rear quarter: I’m not sure what your budget is but these cars can demand quite a fee if the mechanicals aren’t up to scratch, so I’d make sure it’s all running smoothly. If the paint mismatch would bug you, you’ll obviously need to budget for future paint work and if it was my car, I’d have to revert that spoiler back to an OEM one and fit some more flattering wheels! There’s no evidence of the sills being problematic as far as the MOT history is concerned but these go from the inside out so by the time they’re visible, it’s too late! Now that this car has been on UK roads for over 10 years, I would want to stick a borescope into the sill to inspect for corrosion as it’s a costly repair to rectify. I’m happy to come and view any car with you if it helps.

C’mon Simon :rolleyes:

Copy and paste from your other thread: A quick MOT history check says approach with deep pockets. You better ask the kids to give you the cash instead of socks and shaving foam this year as on Christmas Eve when the current MOT expires, you’re going to need some major structural and time consuming (expensive) repairs to the car. The advisory items from previous MOTs sound alarm bells and on paper it looks like a restoration project so I would hope the price reflects this condition. A previous advisory for damage to the structure could suggest previous accident damage: Going back 10 years, the sill damage was already showing itself. As were the brake pipes which are a time consuming job to replace.

A quick MOT history check says approach with deep pockets. You better ask the kids to give you the cash instead of socks and shaving foam this year as on Christmas Eve when the current MOT expires, you’re going to need some major structural and time consuming (expensive) repairs to the car. The advisory items from previous MOTs sound alarm bells and on paper it looks like a restoration project so I would hope the price reflects this condition. A previous advisory for damage to the structure could suggest previous accident damage: Going back 10 years, the sill damage was already showing itself. As were the brake pipes which are a time consuming job to replace.

Welcome to the club Graham, I’m not far from you near Braintree. It’s not a car with a familiar reg but do you have a pic of it as that may help us identify it?

I agree, I don’t use that button very often!

Or AJ4 for the series 2.