Joely P

oh it is... you should see how we pay him!

i think this is a target rather than a current performer?

hope you get yourself together on this 1 chap... i can relate to your disheartening of not having the car for a long time but i cant imagine the extra emotions on top with such a vast amount of cash being tied up too. cant be an easy decision, though it sounds as though you'll have one of the highest profile engine builds in the country if you go through with it? if you buy a mustang etc, you'll just have something that any1 else can buy. there is a chance (quite a big chance) that you'll get it all back together and love it.. all will be well again... but if you give up now... you'll never know.

you want one of these old girls... they come up every now and again but are quite rare! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120461944254&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

iv got a vodafone payg dongle for my carpc... cost 35 quid and comes with 15 quid worth of credit (1gb) which is supposed to give around 30 hours of normal surfing. the main reason i bought the voda dongle is because the credit does not expire like others. http://shop.vodafone.co.uk/shop/mobile-broadband-plans/usb-modem-stick-topup-and-go?WT_ref=INT-011208-SHOP-TopUpGoMBb-MBbPrcPlnsUsb also doubles as a 4gb memory stick and micro sd card reader :)

if youve undone the bolt that secures the hardpipe... it may make things harder... best leave that in to hold it rigid.. might help. also be careful as the hoses may well be hard and brittle. you can easily split them on removal or refit but a quick 'wanted' post on here for some nice soft ones should see you right if thats the case.

as said, warm em up then, undo the jubilees... then twist and pull like fook towards the front of the car so it slides down the hard pipe. might need something to run under and around the hose to 'break the seal'.

dilf :rofl:

that duffers ?

top banana jimmy... there u go.. u need the x-factor! my fronts are only 8" jimmy, which is why they are still a fair distance in the arch @ et20. though i think it suits the rest of the cars stance, if i was to go further out i think it would need to be lower.

to give you an idea of the fitment...

them spokes are quite far out to the rim with no dish so they should be grand... my front tyres are 225 40 18

ok... this post may seem a bit long winded and im not sure how technically minded you are but here is a copy n paste from another thread posted by JeffTT which i think gives a great lamens explanation of the considerations to be taken. i would definately read it before you commit so you understand the potential implications. other cars may have different abs systems and so operate differently but this is based on the z32 abs...

very nice... a sensible mod id say for getting the power down safely. its the fronts that you will have fitment issues with. how much room, roughly, do you have between the oem calipers and the spokes, also bare in mind that the caliper will sit a fair amount out from its current location. if its tight at the mo, you may struggle with big calipers. prolly best to take a pic so other with similar setups can advise if they think it will clear. it might not be the end of the world as you may be able to space the wheels out a bit with some hubcentric bolt on spacers. luckily my wheels are shaped in such a way that i have a wealth of room for big brakes but i have 15mm spacers on it for a more aggresive front offset. currently running et20. find out what your offset is and we can advise...

yes you can just bolt the calipers n discs straight on (you will need the bolts for the calipers though. the z32 caliper bolts have a different thread pitch)... but its whether you can get your wheel back on that might cause issues. the 350z has a different caliper offset to the skyline and (im not 100% on this but) i think the 350z calipers make for a tighter clearance on the spokes.

the skyline calipers are quite a bit bigger than stock tt calipers, the evo ones are bigger still. oem fronts on a tt are something like 297mm... skyline brembos and 350z are 324mm. that said its not really the rotor size that makes the z32 brakes so bad... its the thermal properties of the caliper. it seems to hold the heat too much and cause lots of fade. the skyline brembos are a ten fold improvement over stock and are safe to run with abs.

fronts, yes... rears need some rather streesful modifications to fit! ask andy p.. he has a 350z setup

aaah lol your the chap that bought your car from lee... well then you can stick some sizeable lumps under them old girls! imo it all depends what you want, rebuilt skyline calipers with new fluid, decent discs (324mm) and pads are plenty good enough even for the odd track use. for heavy track use you'll need 2 piece discs and some serious paddage! though i understand that alot of people consider the brakes as part of the bling and styling concepts so try to squeeze as bigger gear under there as they can... when, as far as performance is concerned, they might not necessarily be any better. you should also consider the effects on the abs system when fitting mahoosive brakes as it will need to be disabled, then you run into potential insurance implications. another thing id say with whatever brakes you go for is to watch the offset onto your tsw's... getting the brakes to fit inside the circumference of the wheel is one thing but clearing the spokes of the wheel can become a whole new battle!

what size wheels are we talking? the most common brembo upgrades are from the r33/34 skylines (as they bolt straight on with no mods) but the mitsu evo's are also quite a popular choice (with locating bracket). my r33 calipers cost me 400quid for all 4 corners. the member 'apache' on here has some rather large aston martin brakes fitted and jimmytt has 911 brembos... other than that i think most others are special made kits such as k-sports etc, iirc beegeevinz has 356mm discs on the front of his with k-sports.

just me then! :rofl:

that is '1 FYN Z'

if you have a seized piston it could have caused your new discs to warp. when you fitted new discs did the problem go away for a while? as said the first and cheapest troubleshoot is to check the wheel balance :)

but its gonna cost me some serious arm ache?

:rofl::rofl::rofl: